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Another brake controller question

Grumpaw

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I'm still mulling over why a fuse would blow when your unplugging the wires from the back of the controller.....
But, also thinking that instead of replacing the fuse in the fuse panel every time, why not splice into the 12 volt wire a correct fuse/fuse holder that would be easily accessible. That fuse would sacrifice itself before the under dash fuse would.
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airline tech

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The only thing that comes to mind is the connector itself or the contacts on the controller, as you are grabbing and pulling, positive is temporarily shorting to ground wire.
I suspect you could replicate the same issue by simply wiggling the connector
Another would be - I would have to dig some but if disconnecting a harness with live power you may be generating a short circuit as you disconnect depending on which contact point is broken first (power or ground)
So might be wise , to pull the fuse before you disconnect or connect the connector.
this saves the fuse and possibly shorting out the controller.

So my thought would be ground is broken first, then the power is jumping to the case of the controller, short to ground - thus blowing the fuse
 

Jimmy07

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Thanks for feedback. Tech told me to just lift and disconnect the fuse box in the engine compartment, before disconnecting harness behind controller. So far it has worked, but still a concern.
 

canyonslicker

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I have the Ford branded TBC but not installed because of the wiring to the cab brake light.

I tried to find the post someone posted an under dash connection for rear cab brake light. I don’t mind splicing into a wire harness as I have a lot of experience and the proper tools so no biggie to me. I just need to know the connector and pin number. Any help would be appreciated.
 

RangerBill

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I have the Ford branded TBC but not installed because of the wiring to the cab brake light.

I tried to find the post someone posted an under dash connection for rear cab brake light. I don’t mind splicing into a wire harness as I have a lot of experience and the proper tools so no biggie to me. I just need to know the connector and pin number. Any help would be appreciated.
Here is the wiring diagram for the center stop light. The yellow-grey wire from the BCM (fuse box under the dash) appears to be the one that you want. (Connector C2280D pin 13)
Screenshot 2024-06-26 093644.jpg
 
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subquark

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I put the redarc liberty on my 21 lariat. The only hard part was finding the 4 wires way up under the dash.

20230405_131710.jpg
Thanks for the pic - gonna install the Liberty I got for Christmas soon. =)
 

Davidjc

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Thanks for the pic - gonna install the Liberty I got for Christmas soon. =)
Here's my control knob. I accidentally drilled the first hole too big and had to order the rectangle cover to cover the gap.

20230417_163859.jpg
 

fjwlobo

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You also can try an auto-resetable circuit breaker. They have ones that can fit in the location of and replace the existing fuse.

You should look at the dimensions of the circuit breaker and verify you have the clearance in the fuse box.

This way you won't have to open the fuse panel and replace the fuse every time you remove your trailer brake controller.
 

subquark

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Here's my control knob. I accidentally drilled the first hole too big and had to order the rectangle cover to cover the gap.

20230417_163859.jpg
I like that location - the passenger could hit it if all heck was breaking loose. I have a 2WD so I could move it forward to like where your transfer case knob is. That Liberty knob back end is so long, I'm glad to see it can fit there - thanks! =)

Was it hard to pry off that panel?

I'm scared to death of busting pins. I did a great job of mangling the front valence and put it back in missing a few of those metal clips and it sits a bit wonky! =D

back end (and even longer with the wire that clips in - not my pic)
1719445436252-th.webp
 

Jedadiah

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I like that location - the passenger could hit it if all heck was breaking loose. I have a 2WD so I could move it forward to like where your transfer case knob is. That Liberty knob back end is so long, I'm glad to see it can fit there - thanks! =)

Was it hard to pry off that panel?

I'm scared to death of busting pins. I did a great job of mangling the front valence and put it back in missing a few of those metal clips and it sits a bit wonky! =D

back end (and even longer with the wire that clips in - not my pic)
1719445436252-th.webp
That panel comes off fairly easily. I didn't plan on putting my TBC there, but considered placing my Homelink there, so I pulled it to see. If I remember right, there are some ribs under that trim that limit placement a little. Once you find where you want the knob, you might also need to Dremel off some plastic underneath, so that it can lay flat. There were too many for me to want to place my Homelink buttons there (they're big), but the RedArc knob should be no problem.
 

Davidjc

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I like that location - the passenger could hit it if all heck was breaking loose. I have a 2WD so I could move it forward to like where your transfer case knob is. That Liberty knob back end is so long, I'm glad to see it can fit there - thanks! =)

Was it hard to pry off that panel?

I'm scared to death of busting pins. I did a great job of mangling the front valence and put it back in missing a few of those metal clips and it sits a bit wonky! =D

back end (and even longer with the wire that clips in - not my pic)
1719445436252-th.webp
Not hard at all. Start lifting from rear and it just pops up. I was surprised at how easy it was. I found a YouTube video that showed how.
Found this on another thread.

Screenshot_20240627_071931_PDF Viewer & Book Reader.webp
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