?

[Rick - Saber]

This looks really nice @DukeCanBuildit . Are you still happy with this mod? I am tempted to try it sometime.

Added, How about you @armoredpig are you happy with your mod of this as well?

Sponsored

 

[armoredpig]

Thanks Rick. Yes, I’m very happy with it and still take the time to point it out to others. I recently removed it to swap my tow hooks out for shackles and it was great to see that the top side of the modified air dam and the skid plate were both spotless. So, it’s doing the job I was hoping it would do.

Hi Rick, I was super happy with my air dam mod! But a week later, I swapped to an aftermarket bumper and did away with the stock setup altogether.

If I didn't find a smoking deal on a bumper, I'd still be happily sporting the modded airdam.

 

[codestp202]

Just did this mod today, took about 45 minutes. Well worth it! Thanks for the write up

 

[Turborave]

looks great! good job sir!

 

[MrNeutral]

I just did this. Followed your instructions and it took me about 45 min. Had a dremmel multitool so that helps with the cuts. You sir are a genius. I hated the air dam and when I took it off, I hated the "gap" just as much. Thank you for posting this.

 

[evoaire]

My ranger is ordered. And I’m a big fan. I’ve read all 35 post in this here thread. And I was wondering, could I have a tee?

 

[Rockhound]

Brilliant engineering!
This is why you don't throw parts away that you remove for modifications.
First mod I made was to pull the dam. I ran the skid pate for a while but hated the gap and couldn't come up with a fix. So I pulled the skid plate. That looked better but exposed the crossmember to danger on the trail.
I ran across this post yesterday and did the mod today.
It eliminates the air dam, retains the skid plate and blends the gap from bumper to top of skid plate beautifully, and costs nothing!
Thanks for working this out and posting with great instructions.

 

[CaptainVonAwesome]

I removed the air dam on my XLT and, like many others who have done the same, I didn't like the gap between the bumper and the existing skid plate. It just looked odd and I could see it scooping up mud, snow, etc.. Solution: buy a factory skid plate or modify your old air dam to fill the gap.

You'll need a drill or 1/4" impact driver (contractor kind, not mechanic kind), 1/4" hex to 3/8" drive adapter), 10mm socket (long), 15mm socket (long), razor knife, tire crayon, 3/16" drill bit. (Don't freak out - you're not drilling into your Ranger).

If your air dam is off, you'll need to partially mount it to make the mod. Using the 10mm socket, mount the middle (short one) of the three outer mounting tabs in its original mounting spot, while leaving the other two long tabs on the outside of the bumper ( will be easily understood when you're doing it. Repeat for other side. This makes it way easier to re-install the middle tabs and to mark up your air dam for cutting.

Remove the three bumper skin bolt from the bottom of the bumper, push the bumper skin away and install the three middle air dam bolts in their original mounting position using the 10mm socket. Do not re-attach the bumper skin at this point.

Remove the two forward skid plate bolts using the 15mm socket. The skid plate should sag - if not, loosen the next set of bolts toward the rear of the skid plate but do not remove them. Tuck the air dam above the skid plate and secure one side with a 15mm bolt to hold in place. Wrestle the dam in place and secure the other side. You don't need to fully tighten the bolts but they need to be snug enough to hold things in place while you figure out where you need to cut. Ignore how poorly the dam fits at the outer tab - we'll be fixing that by cutting off the tab and drilling a new mounting slot in the air dam.

Use the tire crayon to mark where you need to cut - the outside edge of the skid plate should be your guide.

Remove the air dam to make the final markups and cut the air dam. Starting from the outside edge of the middle tab, draw a line straight down to the bend, follow along the bend for a few inches, then arch toward the line you traced along the outer edge of the skid plate. Mark a 1" line about 1-1/2" to the inside of where the skid plate will end - this will be a relief cut to allow the air dam to suck up against the skid plate mounting point See photo. Repeat for the other side.

Make sure your razor knife has a new blade. Carefully score where you need to make your cuts. Score again. Score again until you cut through - slow and steady wins the race here! The large outer piece should be completely cut away at this point. Cut off the two outer tabs, flush to the air dam. Make your relief cut. Repeat for the other side.

Using the 3/16" drill bit, make a slot on the outer end of the air dam by drilling two holes very close together and about 3/16" from the end of the air dam. Use the drill to "router" the slot - it doesn't have to be perfect, only functional. Repeat for the other side.

Now, re-install the dam, starting at the outside, now the other side, finishing with the three bolts under the bumper skin. The fit at the outside edges should be much better. Do not fasten bumper skin yet.

Snug the air dam under the skid plate and loosely fasten one side of the skid plate, then the other. Now tighten both skid plate bolts - you should be able see how the relief cuts were helpful. Tighten the rear bolts if you loosened them.

If everything looks good, install the three bumper skin bolts using the 10mm socket.

View attachment 53434

View attachment 53435

View attachment 53437

View attachment 53478

View attachment 53482

View attachment 53483

View attachment 53484

View attachment 53485

 

[CaptainVonAwesome]

@DukeCanBuildit

Thanks a million! Great idea...worked like a charm.

 

[Beez]

I removed the air dam on my XLT and, like many others who have done the same, I didn't like the gap between the bumper and the existing skid plate. It just looked odd and I could see it scooping up mud, snow, etc.. Solution: buy a factory skid plate or modify your old air dam to fill the gap.

You'll need a drill or 1/4" impact driver (contractor kind, not mechanic kind), 1/4" hex to 3/8" drive adapter), 10mm socket (long), 15mm socket (long), razor knife, tire crayon, 3/16" drill bit. (Don't freak out - you're not drilling into your Ranger).

If your air dam is off, you'll need to partially mount it to make the mod. Using the 10mm socket, mount the middle (short one) of the three outer mounting tabs in its original mounting spot, while leaving the other two long tabs on the outside of the bumper ( will be easily understood when you're doing it. Repeat for other side. This makes it way easier to re-install the middle tabs and to mark up your air dam for cutting.

Remove the three bumper skin bolt from the bottom of the bumper, push the bumper skin away and install the three middle air dam bolts in their original mounting position using the 10mm socket. Do not re-attach the bumper skin at this point.

Remove the two forward skid plate bolts using the 15mm socket. The skid plate should sag - if not, loosen the next set of bolts toward the rear of the skid plate but do not remove them. Tuck the air dam above the skid plate and secure one side with a 15mm bolt to hold in place. Wrestle the dam in place and secure the other side. You don't need to fully tighten the bolts but they need to be snug enough to hold things in place while you figure out where you need to cut. Ignore how poorly the dam fits at the outer tab - we'll be fixing that by cutting off the tab and drilling a new mounting slot in the air dam.

Use the tire crayon to mark where you need to cut - the outside edge of the skid plate should be your guide.

Remove the air dam to make the final markups and cut the air dam. Starting from the outside edge of the middle tab, draw a line straight down to the bend, follow along the bend for a few inches, then arch toward the line you traced along the outer edge of the skid plate. Mark a 1" line about 1-1/2" to the inside of where the skid plate will end - this will be a relief cut to allow the air dam to suck up against the skid plate mounting point See photo. Repeat for the other side.

Make sure your razor knife has a new blade. Carefully score where you need to make your cuts. Score again. Score again until you cut through - slow and steady wins the race here! The large outer piece should be completely cut away at this point. Cut off the two outer tabs, flush to the air dam. Make your relief cut. Repeat for the other side.

Using the 3/16" drill bit, make a slot on the outer end of the air dam by drilling two holes very close together and about 3/16" from the end of the air dam. Use the drill to "router" the slot - it doesn't have to be perfect, only functional. Repeat for the other side.

Now, re-install the dam, starting at the outside, now the other side, finishing with the three bolts under the bumper skin. The fit at the outside edges should be much better. Do not fasten bumper skin yet.

Snug the air dam under the skid plate and loosely fasten one side of the skid plate, then the other. Now tighten both skid plate bolts - you should be able see how the relief cuts were helpful. Tighten the rear bolts if you loosened them.

If everything looks good, install the three bumper skin bolts using the 10mm socket.

View attachment 53434

View attachment 53435

View attachment 53437

View attachment 53478

View attachment 53482

View attachment 53483

View attachment 53484

View attachment 53485

Duke... Seriously... Your vision and craftsmanship are to be highly commended. I love this DIY mod and am looking forward to doing this with my Ranger. Sure glad I didn't chuck my air dam in the recycling bin when I removed it to paint my skid plate. Thanks for posting!

 

[canyonslicker]

Ok I’m curious, any before and after pictures? I apologize if I missed them.

 

[1pt21gw]

I took mine off and then added ARB skids, have about an inch of opening as ARB wants you to get their bumper. But this is a cool option. Nice work @DukeCanBuildit!

 

[Synfulz]

Just went out and looked at my truck. As I had recently removed my air dam, thought this would be great. But I don't have that gap like that. My skid plate bolts into the gap.

 

[Dereku]

It looks awesome. Even when I level mine ill keep it. Chasing all MPGs I can. Will even get skinnier all terrains to keep the weight down lol.

 

[Beez]

Well Boys, I got'r done. I might add, doing this mod would have been so much easier, had I decided to do it before removing the air dam to store in my frig'n attic. Trying to wrestle it back on and lining up the bolt holes for prep and tracing was a real challenge to my Christianity.. Not gunna lie. I had a bit of a time with it, rolling around on the garage floor... Words were said, tempers flared, I think I may have overheard Duke and Dave's name being used in vein once or twice?.. It put up a good fight, but in the end, clean living prevailed.

Mine is about an inch wider than intended. Having a firm grasp on my limited capabilities, I was worried about fitment, so I kept a little extra on the width. I figuring I could always trim it down further later on, if necessary. - All in all, (a side from feeling like I've been repeatedly kicked in the ribs) I'm super happy with it.

Thanks again fellas!

Shirt Size: Extra Manly

Sponsored