“Overheating”

[TJC]

Airlien Tech,

You are probably correct,

But it is easy enough to test. Does it ever engage! If it does it's not the problem. If it doesn't, hmmm....

One last thing... Notice that zip tie on the cable where it meets the sensor. Is that stock? I dunno, but I don't think so. I know it is not there on my truck. Maybe someone had an issue and repaired something in that area.

I'm grasping at straws, looking for something out of the ordinary.

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[Iwo]

Hello, today I tested the EGR valve cooler as you described.
1. picture, condition at 88 degrees Celsius, thermostat released fluid into the front radiator
2. video, I opened the cap from the container and placed the tester

 

[Iwo]

1. video

 

[Iwo]

2. video

 

[Iwo]

3. color of the fluid after testing

 

[Iwo]

3. video closed the cap after testing, then the drive followed, from 80-140 km, half an hour, nothing happened, I was afraid to go driving on the highway, lest something bigger shit happen

 

[Iwo]

It seems to me that the liquid has changed color.

 

[airline tech]

3. video closed the cap after testing, then the drive followed, from 80-140 km, half an hour, nothing happened, I was afraid to go driving on the highway, lest something bigger shit happen

Just to confirm for the Positive Test

You were either in (Drive) and doing the (Brake Load) test or were using a scan tool to command the EGR Valve open - Correct

or

Just a raised RPM and in park?

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Airlien Tech,

You are probably correct,

But it is easy enough to test. Does it ever engage! If it does it's not the problem. If it doesn't, hmmm....

One last thing... Notice that zip tie on the cable where it mets the sensor. Is that stock? I dunno, but I don't think so. I know it is not there on my truck. Maybe someone had an issue and repaired something in that area.



I'm grasping at straws, looking for something out of the ordinary.

That’s because they have a 2.0 liter biturbo diesel engine and not our 2.3L gas engine. Stuff’s different.

 

[Iwo]

Just to confirm for the Positive Test

You were either in (Drive) and doing the (Brake Load) test or were using a scan tool to command the EGR Valve open - Correct

or

Just a raised RPM and in park?

According to your instructions, parked car, handbrake up and foot brake pressed, rpm 1500 - 2000, several times for 60 seconds

 

[TJC]

That’s because they have a 2.0 liter biturbo diesel engine and not our 2.3L gas engine. Stuff’s different.

I'm aware that it's a different engine.

I have never seen a zip tie used on any OEM auto cables except when I placed them there. I don't think manufacturers use zip ties to hold cable sheaths in place. Mass produced parts don't generally come with zip ties. There are much more cost efficient ways to achieve the same result.

My point is that the zip tie is an anomaly to modern manufacturing, and may point to a modification, or suggest that a previous diagnostic investigation was performed on the cable or fan clutch assembly.

 

[airline tech]

Well (POO) I missed an important step the intent was to place the engine under a load with the brake applied so IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN

1. Set up the Block Test - the same as you did previously
2. Park in an open area - in front of the truck
3. Set Parking Brake
4. Start Eng and Hold Hard Pressure on Brake
5. Place gear in - DRIVE
5. Raise Engine RPMs to 1500-2000 - hold for 60 seconds
6. Note: Did air bubbles increase at the reservoir and did the color change (Block Test)

Reason: You are placing the engine under a load and forcing the exhaust pressure pulses to increase - to induce the issue at a greater possibility of a positive CO2 Test.

If your truck is like the US Version - The EGR flow is from the EGR Cooler --EGR Valve --EGR Tube Assembly ---Intake
The intent was to get the engine under a (Load) and get the EGR Valve to open thus getting a slightly higher pressure in the EGR Cooler and most importantly exhaust flow.
However, there is still exhaust pressure in the EGR Cooler even with the EGR Valve closed, just not as pronounced. - Hence the reason for the (Brake Hold + In Drive + Raise RPMs to 1500 to 2000)
This would force the EGR Valve to Open or if you have a scan tool that is bi-directional you can you that (Set Desired EGR to about 15% at 2,000 Rpm's) and does not have to be in drive.

Anyway - My observation

1. Blue Fluid at the beginning of the test
2. Air Pockets - Moved to Reservoir - (noted subtle - not aggressive)
3. Reservoir Fluid - remained stable - did not suck down - so air pockets are gone
4. Noted some slight pressure pulses - still remained (Tester)
5. Fluid eventually (what did not get displaced) by the pressure pulses
6. Turned (Greenish / Yellow) -- Positive Test

Since you did not have it set up - like I intended (Sorry, that's on me) it still appears to be the EGR Cooler - Leaking - (Exhaust to Cooling System) using one very important observation and that is if a Head Gasket or Head was leaking - the air pockets would have remained and the pulses would have increased and been in sync with RPM.

So, for me and from my office chair - EGR Cooler

I suspect if the test was done - how I intended - the pressure pulses would have been slightly more aggressive and the (Test-Fluid) would have changed faster.
So, if you were to retest - again and my theory is correct - it confirms the EGR Cooler 100%.
Basically, I can see a (Highly Possible - EGR Cooler Leak) as with only that test, well you actually isolated 1/2 of the possible source and by doing another test would just be a secondary confirmation of the EGR Cooler - If it gets worse under load - it confirms it.

 

[TJC]

I tend to agree. EGR Cooler is most likely the culprit. Just enough of a leak to cause the problem, and not show in the oil like a gasket or head leak.

 

[Iwo]

Thanks guys, I'll give it a try next weekend

 

[TJC]

If it is possible you might want to run your test again, but this time with the coolant hoses temporarily pinched before and after the EGR cooler. If the bubbles stop and color doesn't change, you'll have isolated the problem to the cooler. A thin pair of vice grips should do the trick, if you have access to the hoses.

Best of luck to you.

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