Rant: Cooling systems weakest link - Mech Fan

[awd.nv]

Just wanted to rant, this is what my temps looked like after having to idle at my kids school for 28min in 108F temps. 230F coolant right before I left the parking lot, 201F cylinder head and 220F trans, 29PSI oil pressure. That temp gauge is still below half way on the IC so it makes you wonder what Ford considers hot lol.

I have a Mishi radiator and intercooler, what this truck needs most is an electric fan, sheesh. Anyone know of an aftermarket kit or something someone has documented? Might be my next mod since I would like to keep this truck for a few more years. I wish I could just put an aux fan to use the Tremor toggle on but looks like zero room.

Temps drop nicely once I start driving and at that point the thermostat and mech fan tries to keep things at 200F. I sometimes wonder if the Mountune radiator will cool better in these scenarios since it is thinner and likely less air resistance.

The other funny thing about how electrically regulated this truck is, it really tried to keep things at 200F because you can hear when the fan disengages when driving in this hot weather. Coolest I can get in city driving with 108F today was 193F or so, which I think just shows the capabilities of the cooling system, despite the mechanical fan.

Anyone else have thoughts about an electric fan?

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[That_one_Ranger]

I am really looking into electric fan right now I have the same radiator and a colder tstat and am still displeased with the cooling I can run 190-195 on the interstate going 85-90 until I hit a hill some of the big passes we have here push me up 220 range

 

[That_one_Ranger]

I am really looking into electric fan right now I have the same radiator and a colder tstat and am still displeased with the cooling I can run 190-195 on the interstate going 85-90 until I hit a hill some of the big passes we have here push me up 220 range

Correction I read that wrong my bad I have the mountoon rad

 

[Dereku]

I had the over heating issue at idle once. Noticed the radiator was clogged. Never happened again. I would like electric fans tho, so they kick on at certain temps no matter what. Also nice gauges, mine is in the same spot.

 

[NotBudule2]

As I have also wanted an electric fan option, it seams the main issue (as i read it) is there is no way to tell the BCM about it so it turns on and off with the temp...

 

[That_one_Ranger]

As I have also wanted an electric fan option, it seams the main issue (as i read it) is there is no way to tell the BCM about it so it turns on and off with the temp...

With a thermal switch or adjustable thermostat controller you can set your fans off at any temperature you want if that is what you were asking

 

[NotBudule2]

With a thermal switch or adjustable thermostat controller you can set your fans off at any temperature you want if that is what you were asking

Yes , but the BCM will go crazy not knowing that and lights and errors ad nauseum is what I'm hearing but im not sure anyone has actually tried it..

 

[That_one_Ranger]

I know on some older style vehicles we would use resistors and what not but I’m pretty sure a lot of it can be done through tuning now I’ll have to hop back on hp and do some playing around

 

[Frenchy]

I would do a few checks like making sure the Radiator is clean(as in no dirt and dust in there) and then consider replacing the Fan Clutch. Also I would consider going back to the Factory Radiator. On my 2012 Frontier that has an E Fan Conversion I had a CSF Aluminum Radiator that was a 2 row. It was 42 mm thick, but the rows were only 36.5 mm together leaving 5.5 mm of dead space. The OEM for the Frontier is 35 mm and is a 1 row making the space used correctly and not having near as much of an air restriction across the core.

Just some food for thought

 

[That_one_Ranger]

I would do a few checks like making sure the Radiator is clean(as in no dirt and dust in there) and then consider replacing the Fan Clutch. Also I would consider going back to the Factory Radiator. On my 2012 Frontier that has an E Fan Conversion I had a CSF Aluminum Radiator that was a 2 row. It was 42 mm thick, but the rows were only 36.5 mm together leaving 5.5 mm of dead space. The OEM for the Frontier is 35 mm and is a 1 row making the space used correctly and not having near as much of an air restriction across the core.

Just some food for thought

At least in my scenario I did notice a cooling efficiency with the new radiator and I can assure mine is clean just not getting the cooling I’m looking for with some of the drives that I make

 

[Frenchy]

At least in my scenario I did notice a cooling efficiency with the new radiator and I can assure mine is clean just not getting the cooling I’m looking for with some of the drives that I make

For what it's worth get ahold of Mishimoto and find out the size of the tubes in the radiator. That's how I found out with CSF and then I measured the OEM Radiator. It's amazing on what happens with these different bits

 

[Frenchy]

So I just got some basic measurements. The Factory Radiator is a 1 row at 28 mm(1.1 inches). The Mishimoto is a 2 row with a total thickness of 48 mm(1.89 inches). With the other information provided by Mishimoto I have the following. The core thickness is roughly 71% more than Factory(Mishimoto claims 78%). The problem with that is the coolant capacity is only 51.3% more according to Mishimoto(and it looks like 47% to me). Why is this a problem? Because the core most likely has a bunch of dead space in-between the tubes. How much you ask? I'm assuming between 5-7 mm which is a lot. That's going off of how much bigger the core is and how much extra coolant it holds. For that is would definitely go back to stock.

 

[Dereku]

What if you just pop an electric fan in front behind the grill with a dash switch and a temp probe. Like the old hot rods would do for parades and traffic. Have it trigger at 200 degrees. Would only come on while sitting. But you could have a manual switch too for those time you need it.

 

[That_one_Ranger]

So I just got some basic measurements. The Factory Radiator is a 1 row at 28 mm(1.1 inches). The Mishimoto is a 2 row with a total thickness of 48 mm(1.89 inches). With the other information provided by Mishimoto I have the following. The core thickness is roughly 71% more than Factory(Mishimoto claims 78%). The problem with that is the coolant capacity is only 51.3% more according to Mishimoto(and it looks like 47% to me). Why is this a problem? Because the core most likely has a bunch of dead space in-between the tubes. How much you ask? I'm assuming between 5-7 mm which is a lot. That's going off of how much bigger the core is and how much extra coolant it holds. For that is would definitely go back to stock.

I see what you are saying but then even with the larger spaces and what not then explain to me why I noticed a cooling difference between factory and now?

 

[Frenchy]

I see what you are saying but then even with the larger spaces and what not then explain to me why I noticed a cooling difference between factory and now?

I would have to see the numbers before and after. Don't get me wrong, even I saw how the Ranger did when I had mine and it was good for the most part, but the one thing I saw that needed improvement was the Transmission Cooler as the Transmission would get real hot under light OffRoad use. I also remember my 2019 Ranger well enough to hear the Fan Clutch pull more air quite regularly on light OffRoad use.

The big problem I see is more air restriction along the Fan Clutch not pull enough air at idle vs when moving and with higher engine RPM. I had similar things with my Frontier. It's part of why I posted the information in the General Automotive section of the Forum.

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