Ford is replacing the long block - corroded cylinder

[Lcr3000]

(Part 1 of 2) I was hoping to evade this problem, but it seems I've fallen victim to the ol' water draining down onto the spark plug issue. My 2021 (1st revision 2019- early 2201) Ranger Tremor has 57k miles and has run fine until it suddenly didn't, this past Saturday. Driving it down the highway at 60mph, it suddenly started missing on one cylinder. I pulled on to a safe distance off the main freeway and took a look under the hood. I couldn't see anything identifying the issue (I was looking for maybe a loose vacuum or something like that). Water level was ok. I decided that it could limp the remaining 7 miles home with it sputtering. Monday, I limped it into my local Ford dealership and left it with them. I've got a good service agent, so I'll spare the Ford review here. It is now Friday and after various diagnostics the company requires to approve a fix, the verdict is in. A cylinder is corroded (assuming #4), and the plug is burnt up (black). The order for the new engine is in. The arrival will take a week. Install, up to another full week. I'll follow up with the situation once all has been completed. I did ask if the new block would be the newer revision. The answer is yes; they will only put in whatever latest revision is of that particular engine (which is the late 2021 - 2023 revision). The factory power train warranty covers all of it including my loaner vehicle with one exception, the spark plugs. I'll have to buy those (16$ a piece) I know, kind of petty right? The real question is, will it come with the engine cover, being that Ford does have a TSP open suggesting putting one on. Even the tech doesn't know, but we'll see. If not, I will purchase the newer one. (2 of 2 coming soon)

(Part 2 of 2) I got my truck back after roughly two weeks. One week, for the engine to actually get delivered and one week wait time for the work. Once again, I'm up and running and the engine sounds the same as it did when firing well on all cylinders before the issue occurred. The only thing that I will report that had to be addressed since install was that they failed to tighten the clamp well enough around the turbo inlet hose. It came loose when I pushed the gas pedal down to go into passing gear, I heard a whoosh sound, and I knew I've heard that from another car in the past. I took it back and they pushed the hose back on to the housing and tightened it properly. Though I'm not sure if it applies, I'm monitoring the shifting of the 10-speed. If there is a slight power ratio difference with this newer engine, will the trans need retrained?
(Other notes) Just for clarity, some have asked about which cylinder(s) were damaged. At first the word-of-mouth report was cylinder 4, but as they looked further into it, they said #3 looked bad also. I was running the original plugs, which all needed replaced. And by the way, the new plugs were covered by Ford apparently. They didn't charge me for them the way they said they were going to. Folks, warranty is everything, I didn't spend a penny on it. But it's a weird feeling to get so close to 60k and have this happen prior to going over the factory power train limit.

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[Lcr3000]

(Part 2 of 2) I got my truck back after roughly two weeks. One week, for the engine to actually get delivered and one week wait time for the work. Once again, I'm up and running and the engine sounds the same as it did when firing well on all cylinders before the issue occurred. The only thing that I will report that had to be addressed since install was that they failed to tighten the clamp well enough around the turbo inlet hose. It came loose when I pushed the gas pedal down to go into passing gear, I heard a whoosh sound, and I knew I've heard that from another car in the past. I took it back and they pushed the hose back on to the housing and tightened it properly. Though I'm not sure if it applies, I'm monitoring the shifting of the 10-speed. If there is a slight power ratio difference with this newer engine, will the trans need retrained?
(Other notes) Just for clarity, some have asked about which cylinder(s) were damaged. At first the word-of-mouth report was cylinder 4, but as they looked further into it, they said #3 looked bad also. I was running the original plugs, which all needed replaced. And by the way, the new plugs were covered by Ford apparently. They didn't charge me for them the way they said they were going to. Folks, warranty is everything, I didn't spend a penny on it. But it's a weird feeling to get so close to 60k and have this happen prior to going over the factory power train limit.

Oh, shoot I forgot to reply to the biggest question, did the engine cover come with it, since they are using that as the excuse for the apparent water drainage issue. The answer is no. I'll either buy a better made after market one or use the ol pool noodle trick shown in a different post in this forum. You just can't understand car manufacturers logic these days.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Oh, shoot I forgot to reply to the biggest question, did the engine cover come with it, since they are using that as the excuse for the apparent water drainage issue. The answer is no. I'll either buy a better made after market one or use the ol pool noodle trick shown in a different post in this forum. You just can't understand car manufacturers logic these days.

Glad that warranty covered it. But water in the spark plugs does not equate to scored cylinder walls. So maybe two separate issues?? Any way you could post the repair order that describes what they did?

 

[Doc]

(Part 1 of 2) I was hoping to evade this problem, but it seems I've fallen victim to the ol' water draining down onto the spark plug issue. My 2021 (1st revision 2019- early 2201) Ranger Tremor has 57k miles and has run fine until it suddenly didn't, this past Saturday. Driving it down the highway at 60mph, it suddenly started missing on one cylinder. I pulled on to a safe distance off the main freeway and took a look under the hood. I couldn't see anything identifying the issue (I was looking for maybe a loose vacuum or something like that). Water level was ok. I decided that it could limp the remaining 7 miles home with it sputtering. Monday, I limped it into my local Ford dealership and left it with them. I've got a good service agent, so I'll spare the Ford review here. It is now Friday and after various diagnostics the company requires to approve a fix, the verdict is in. A cylinder is corroded (assuming #4), and the plug is burnt up (black). The order for the new engine is in. The arrival will take a week. Install, up to another full week. I'll follow up with the situation once all has been completed. I did ask if the new block would be the newer revision. The answer is yes; they will only put in whatever latest revision is of that particular engine (which is the late 2021 - 2023 revision). The factory power train warranty covers all of it including my loaner vehicle with one exception, the spark plugs. I'll have to buy those (16$ a piece) I know, kind of petty right? The real question is, will it come with the engine cover, being that Ford does have a TSP open suggesting putting one on. Even the tech doesn't know, but we'll see. If not, I will purchase the newer one. (2 of 2 coming soon)

This is what I was referring to in the other post with water in the cylinder because of leaking spark plug ..just an FYI …Head gasket seems likely …

 

[woodworker]

Oh, shoot I forgot to reply to the biggest question, did the engine cover come with it, since they are using that as the excuse for the apparent water drainage issue. The answer is no. I'll either buy a better made after market one or use the ol pool noodle trick shown in a different post in this forum. You just can't understand car manufacturers logic these days.

Would the engine cover actually have helped? I only ask cause I’m at 150k and don’t need problems to start now. Plugs were replaced by Ford at 60k and 120k.

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