Front Suspension install tip to protect the CV Axle

[Captaintacoz101]

Did my front suspension today (Bilstein 6112s) and wanted to share information that is needed for having a successful install.

#1 The most important thing that I learned only after screwing it up initially is UNDO THE CV AXLE NUT and push it back so it is loose and doesn't get pulled when you move the control arm to take the struts in and out. If not done as I found out the CV can/will separate internally which is an pain in the butt to put back together.

TO FIX if you do mess up and separate the inner CV, it'll take a minute but it is fixable. Mine separated on the inner CV so I can't speak on how to fix the outer CV separating. Take off the brake assembly, hang that off to the side and also take off the rotor. Tilt the knuckle down and to the side so you can get the CV axle out of the hub. I did this with a buddy but get the axle where it feels like it is aligned inside the separated inner CV and hold the axle straight in that orientation while pushing in towards it, you are going to use a good size dead blow and hammer in straight in until it pops back in to position. It didn't need a ton of hammer force but a good few hits got it back in.
When going back together the torque for the Axle nut is 221 ft lbs (did that with a friend stepping on the brakes), the brake caliper to the hub is 111 ft lbs.

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[airline tech]

Yes, I took extra steps for my 4600's, pulled caliper and rotor and axle nut, and before starting procedure placed it in 4-Low, no need for helper to hold brakes for the axle nut.
It does not take very much (outward) movement to pull the CV-Joints out of place and they can be a hard fight to get them back in place (fighting grease and inner boot vacuum)

 

[BK553]

I pulled mine out when leveling, I just jacked the whole hub up a bit and rotated the brake slowly back and forth until it slid right back in, took maybe 3 minutes, I never removed anything.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Did my front suspension today (Bilstein 6112s) and wanted to share information that is needed for having a successful install.

#1 The most important thing that I learned only after screwing it up initially is UNDO THE CV AXLE NUT and push it back so it is loose and doesn't get pulled when you move the control arm to take the struts in and out. If not done as I found out the CV can/will separate internally which is an pain in the butt to put back together.

TO FIX if you do mess up and separate the inner CV, it'll take a minute but it is fixable. Mine separated on the inner CV so I can't speak on how to fix the outer CV separating. Take off the brake assembly, hang that off to the side and also take off the rotor. Tilt the knuckle down and to the side so you can get the CV axle out of the hub. I did this with a buddy but get the axle where it feels like it is aligned inside the separated inner CV and hold the axle straight in that orientation while pushing in towards it, you are going to use a good size dead blow and hammer in straight in until it pops back in to position. It didn't need a ton of hammer force but a good few hits got it back in.
When going back together the torque for the Axle nut is 221 ft lbs (did that with a friend stepping on the brakes), the brake caliper to the hub is 111 ft lbs.

What are your thoughts on the 6112's after 9 months ?

Also,,, did you get the entire Ranger lift package (w/ UCAs, Shocks, Leafs) ?

 

[Captaintacoz101]

I did 6112s front, 5100 rears, stock everything else. I like them overall, much firmer than stock but not overly so. The body roll though corners and overall pavement control is way better. I did about 1.5-2” of lift and fit 265-70-17 tires with no issues.
Overall quite happy, my only 2 wishes are a slightly softer ride (but not enough to change them out), and tremor leaf springs.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I did 6112s front, 5100 rears, stock everything else. I like them overall, much firmer than stock but not overly so. The body roll though corners and overall pavement control is way better. I did about 1.5-2” of lift and fit 265-70-17 tires with no issues.
Overall quite happy, my only 2 wishes are a slightly softer ride (but not enough to change them out), and tremor leaf springs.

Did you ever take them off-road ?

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I did 6112s front, 5100 rears, stock everything else. I like them overall, much firmer than stock but not overly so. The body roll though corners and overall pavement control is way better. I did about 1.5-2” of lift and fit 265-70-17 tires with no issues.
Overall quite happy, my only 2 wishes are a slightly softer ride (but not enough to change them out), and tremor leaf springs.

I'm seriously considering the Ranger 6112 Lift kit but I don't want to drop $3300 on them unless the off-road performance is mind blowing. My 1st option is a $4300 Fox 2.5 BDS 3½" Lift kit.

I've driven the Fox 2.5s off-road and they are amazing. I would love to save $1000 by going with the 6112 kit but I'm just not sure if they measure up off-road...

 

[Captaintacoz101]

I'm seriously considering the Ranger 6112 Lift kit but I don't want to drop $3300 on them unless the off-road performance is mind blowing. My 1st option is a $4300 Fox 2.5 BDS 3½" Lift kit.

I have not taken them off road yet besides some gravel fire roads which are still roads. From what I've read on here and my experience with fox suspension on other trucks, they (Fox) would probably be better off road since they tend to be softer. For something along the lines of a fox2.0 or the 6112's check out the Eibach's, their supposed to be a happy medium between those. As far as leaf springs in the rear, the tremor leafs are quite nice if you have stock weight in the back and don't need the extra spring rate for towing or a large overlanding setup in the bed.

 

[tentspast]

You can take the strut out by undoing the two lower control arm bolts and dropping the lower control arm, then the strut just drops out underneath. It's far quicker and easier and you don't over extend your CV.

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