[Resolved] Transmission downshift at highway speeds and then it wigged out.

[RangerBill]

I measured what came out but then when I changed the filter at least another quart came out that I could not measure (my fault going into it with half knowledge). I put in 7 quarts before it showed up on the fitzstick. I believe it takes 9 quarts completely empty that's what I have read here.

You have to check the transmission fluid level after the transmission has been driven and hot. The fluid level rises higher from cold to hot and must be measured hot with engine running, and all drive ranges have been selected for a few seconds each (PRNDS). If you checked it cold or engine not running, the level will be incorrectly read on the dipstick.

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[RangerBill]

Short answer NO, but I have learned my folly and I am getting the forscan set up with the phone app so I can have the gauges I need to observe. I assume trans temp is fluid temp or no?

Yes.

 

[Domino77]

Like others have stated, it is very easy to overfill and the truck will run fine until you reach the higher temperature range and the fluid expands enough to begin foaming, then all H@ll breaks loose.

If you haven't yet, invest and install a Fitzstick. His custom funnel is a perfect "hands free" fit with his dipstick. And the addition of this $14 electric transfer pump from Amazon makes life very simple, pulling fluid out the dipstick without spilling a drop!

You can't trust a seat of the pants warm up, you'll never get the transmission in the 206F-215F window without power braking the truck.

If you have a Fitzstick, you can use a cold start level measure that I came up with after I set the fluid to the middle of the range on the dipstick when I was at the top of the heat range (215F). It is really simple to do.

Use the image below. Each reading is the proper fluid level at a given fluid temperature. If you have a way of measuring the fluid this becomes very simple.

If you do not you can use a cold start (letting your truck sit on level ground over night in a warm garage.

I took the measurements at 75F ambient and 77.4 Fluid temp.

Basically start the truck from a cold start on level ground, shift through the gears from park to sport and back at 5 second intervals, immediately hop out and check the fluid level (DO NOT WAIT). Fluid level should just be touching the tip of the dipstick.

Filling to this level will result in the fluid reading at the diamond between 4 and 5 at 215F.

If you have Forscan and the FitzStick, you can validate when the fluid hits 120F, it should be at the center of the 1st diamond. If it is not on the level, add or suck out fluid and validate at the next higher temperature milestone.

I've successfully used this method on my last three transmission fills.

It is far easier than doing this under the truck when hot.

Thanks, I have the Fitzstick installed and I will follow this. I did have the truck running for 15 minutes in park before I tested it but did not shift between gears. I have a lot of good info in this thread to check it properly tomorrow.

 

[Domino77]

I got a hold of a friend that knows a Ford tech at a dealer. The trans and computer issues could very well be and mostly likely were result of the battery issue and could have caused all my malfunctions on the highway the other day. This combined with the aftermarket parts apparently. I knew the liability going in.

 

[RangerBill]

Thanks, I have the Fitzstick installed and I will follow this. I did have the truck running for 15 minutes in park before I tested it but did not shift between gears. I have a lot of good info in this thread to check it properly tomorrow.

It takes driving it for a while, idling it for 15 minutes won't be enough. Some have put it in drive with the brake on and raised the engine speed to heat up the fluid, but a long drive would be easier on the transmission.

 

[TJC]

Thanks, I have the Fitzstick installed and I will follow this. I did have the truck running for 15 minutes in park before I tested it but did not shift between gears. I have a lot of good info in this thread to check it properly tomorrow.

15 minutes from a cold start would have put your fluid temperature at less than 140F. If you filled to between 4 and 5 your transmission was way overfilled.

It wont exhibit any strangeness until the fluid heats up, then all manner of craziness occurs.

A good fluid fill at that temp (~130F) should have been between the top of the first diamond and just below 6.

I clocked the time req'd to reach the temps on the dipstick from a cold start. It took 38:20 for my transmission to reach 180F. A proper fill at 180F is at 5. (as measured on my truck).

See the charts below.

 

[Domino77]

15 minutes from a cold start would have put your fluid temperature at less than 140F. If you filled to between 4 and 5 your transmission was way overfilled.

It wont echibit any strngeness until the fluid heats up, then all manner of craziness occurs.

A good fluid fill at that temp (~130F) should have been between the top of the first diamond and just below 6.

I clocked the time req'd to reach the temps on the dipstick from a cold start. It took 38:20 for my transmission to reach 180F. A proper fill at 180F is at 5. (as measured on my truck).

See the charts below.

Ok. I follow its certainly overfilled probably by 2-quarts. I feel pretty dumb at this point. I'll get a quart pumped out and see where I stand. Just working my way down till its right. Check it after a good drive.
I'll post back after driving it for a week or so. I had originally put in 5 quarts. Ran it 15 minutes in park as I read elsewhere and it never showed on the stick. It was probably fine according to the chart above and low temp I was at. I got concerned and added more after considering the filter mishap loss of additional fluid.

Thanks TJC, RangerBill and everyone for keeping the discussion going. Remember I'm a 90s mustang guy learning these smart cars/trucks these days, so im getting there with the help of this forum. Lots of face palms this week. But hey my turkey looks good! Nothing like a shadetree mechanic that can cook.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Ok. I follow its certainly overfilled probably by 2-quarts. I feel pretty dumb at this point. I'll get a quart pumped out and see where I stand. Just working my way down till its right. Check it after a good drive.
I'll post back after driving it for a week or so. I had originally put in 5 quarts. Ran it 15 minutes in park as I read elsewhere and it never showed on the stick. It was probably fine according to the chart above and low temp I was at. I got concerned and added more after considering the filter mishap loss of additional fluid.

Thanks TJC, RangerBill and everyone for keeping the discussion going. Remember I'm a 90s mustang guy learning these smart cars/trucks these days, so im getting there with the help of this forum. Lots of face palms this week. But hey my turkey looks good! Nothing like a shadetree mechanic that can cook.

Drive it at highway speeds in 6th gear(3500-4000 rpm) for about 15-20 minutes. You’ll easily see the 205 range. Works every time for me.

 

[5thranger]

Ok. I follow its certainly overfilled probably by 2-quarts. I feel pretty dumb at this point. I'll get a quart pumped out and see where I stand. Just working my way down till its right. Check it after a good drive.
I'll post back after driving it for a week or so. I had originally put in 5 quarts. Ran it 15 minutes in park as I read elsewhere and it never showed on the stick. It was probably fine according to the chart above and low temp I was at. I got concerned and added more after considering the filter mishap loss of additional fluid.

Thanks TJC, RangerBill and everyone for keeping the discussion going. Remember I'm a 90s mustang guy learning these smart cars/trucks these days, so im getting there with the help of this forum. Lots of face palms this week. But hey my turkey looks good! Nothing like a shadetree mechanic that can cook.

And has poopy pants after the incident.

 

[Domino77]

And has poopy pants after the incident.

Yeah, by the way it was White Castle not Taco Bell and I'm still scrubbing the driver seat.

"Clark, I'd like to try to fumigate this here chair, it's a good quality item. If you don't mind my askin', how much did she set you back?"

 

[5thranger]

Yeah, by the way it was White Castle not Taco Bell and I'm still scrubbing the driver seat.

"Clark, I'd like to try to fumigate this here chair, it's a good quality item. If you don't mind my askin', how much did she set you back?"

Not much difference there both are oral edemas

 

[Dereku]

I use a paper towel to check the level. Lay the dipstick on it. Pretty obvious to see whats wet. The fluid is thin and hard to be sure of the correct level. Do it for oil too. Just makes it easier

 

[Domino77]

I use a paper towel to check the level. Lay the dipstick on it. Pretty obvious to see whats wet. The fluid is thin and hard to be sure of the correct level. Do it for oil too. Just makes it easier

Good tip i've been struggling to see the fluid level but that makes better use of the paper towel.

 

[TJC]

This is another reason to check the level when the fluid is cold.... You can easily see it on the dipstick tip.

If you do not trust my measurements, fill and check your level at 215F just once. Then let the truck sit a day or two on the same flat level surface where you checked the fluid hot, then check the fluid using my cold start process. You should see similar results.

If you under fill when at the 215F (at 5 line instead of at the diamond between 4 and 5, you may not see fluid on the tip of the dipstick. If you fill to 4 (the absolute top of the range at 215F), the level will be about 1/8" higher on the dipstick tip.

When the fluid is hot it migrates up or down the dipstick very easily too! I have a high intensity LED light that when held just so, reflects the fluid sheen well enough for my tired eyes to pick up on the fluid level.

I actually drilled a small hole at the correct fill level which makes reading the fluid level easier when at 215F, but unless you know what you are doing I would advise against attempting it.

The dipstick is hardened spring steel, and the drill bit must be very sharp. Even then it is difficult to keep the bit from wondering and flexing, and you'll need strong support under the dipstick to keep from damaging your Fitzstick.

If you don't have the equipment (a drill press with oil bath and a jig to lock the dipstick in place) do NOT attempt this... and even then you must be very careful and precise.

And if you try, be prepared to buy another one, because the odds are you will screw it up!

I had a couple of dipsticks from various old engines to practice on. My first attempt wasn't pretty!

A single old dipstick allows you to drill test holes up and down the dipstick until you get the process right. I broke a couple of drill bits on the test dipstick.

 

[Lcr3000]

I understand the storied history of the 10R80 Transmission and it's quite a nail-biting read. Well, I have had an experience that I felt I had to share or see if anyone has had the same experience. I have searched the forum and not found anything similar. For reference she's a 2022 Ranger FX4 (2.3L) my upgrades are as follows: Ford Performance tuner, MSD Ignition coils, TurboSmart Blow-off valve, CVF Intercooler, CVF Downpipe, C&L throttle control, K&N induction, Borla catback. Also, suspiciously coincidental before this incident I changed the trans fluid (added Lubeguard), filter and put on an aftermarket PPE trans pan.

Basically, I was headed down the highway and went to pass another vehicle. As I accelerated a bit more aggressively than normal the transmission downshifted as I notice it does when I am a bit more aggressive with the throttle, but this time the downshift felt significantly harder. As it downshifted I has halfway into the next lane and everything went haywire. The truck shuttered, almost braking to a stop in the middle of the highway and the instrument cluster went crazy, pre-collision sensor went off so many things happened at once combined with my instant fear of the worst I did not recall everything that happened within that second. Within the following seconds it recovered somewhat and it shifted like it was slipping the rest of the way home, it went into 10th and stayed there unless I came to a complete stop (I was in stop and go traffic at this point). It would shift down to 1st then it would shift up through acceleration like each gear was slipping and seemed to shift up and down erratically like it was just all confused. This did kick on the check engine light. I let it sit overnight and it seemed to shift more reasonable the next day, but not a 100%. That was a week ago and things seem to be 80-90% better and the check engine light went off (maybe I am just being over analytical now noticing all the nuances). It seems to, on occasion, shift hard throughout normal driving while city driving. I have considered using the Forscan to set the trans to re-learn (can I even do that? I assuming I can?) or maybe my Ford Tuner does this as well I am meaning to look into these options. If you read this far I appreciate it, let me know what you think or if you had something similar happen.

I want to respond to your original question. I realize that various owners can resolve, if only temporarily or permanent, issues with their vehicles, but I believe my experience aligns with your symptoms better. The rough shifting is a Ford defect (due to poor design) in the 10R60/10R80/10R80 MHT transmissions. However, they never recalled it because it wasn't enough issue to keep the truck from running or being reliable but only worsened with wear. The TSB from ford is 23-2250 put out on August 14, 2023.
I purchased my 2021 truck, used in 2023, with only 6400 miles on it. Even then, I noticed a bit of a rough shift now and then, especially when it's cold, coming in and out of reverse. The rough shifting would mostly for me, come when coasting down and then trying to suddenly accelerate again, but again, not always. I let it go hoping for the best. This year it has become more frequent and harsher. I live in the D.C. metroplex area and my truck during a stop (in a parking lot thank goodness), begin erratically searching for a gear and then stopped and the wrench indicator in my dash lit up. When this happens, the computer will limit the power in the truck to keep you from trying to drive it. It seems to have reset itself after I shut off the vehicle and let it set for 30 minutes, got back in and then started it; it ran normal again. That was enough for me to go straight to Ford with it and open a service ticket. I also printed off the service bulletin and told them that what I experienced was exactly what Ford described in the TSB. The TSB describes exactly how to fix each model and parts needed. It technically will be a transmission overhaul with updated revisions of parts. I turned my truck in this past Wednesday and will pick it up by tomorrow. I will follow up with the results of the overhaul. My vehicle has 56k miles on it now, still within power train warranty. They gave me no issues or flak about the problem and assigned me a loaner vehicle in the meantime. I want to say, that I have extended warranty with this vehicle, and recommend it for all. I think we all like our Rangers, they are so nice to drive and have plenty of power. I hope this gets me beyond any major issues.

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