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Collision assist unavailable, check 4 x 4 , p0106, p06a7 ALL at the same time WTH ???????

sootie007

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75k..... driving a few miles today then parked it. When I came out an hr later the truck popped up collision assist unavailable when I tried to start it , the truck barely started - running super rough then died still parked. I then restarted it and check 4 x 4 popped up in the screen , wrench light and check engine lights both lit up. Transmission shifts were super late on the way home , the downshifts were stacked together too close to the point it jerked the truck repeatedly all the way home when slowing down at lights. When I tried to accelerate the truck wouldnt downshift and get moving like usual - super lazy - under powered feeling. WTH this truck has never been offroad, babied and I occasionally engage 4wh, 4wl, locker just to keep things lubed up in the 4 x 4 system. I have never even pulled a trailer with this truck. So I got home and pulled the negative cable and cleaned the battery post , reattached it, then I did the same for the + battery cable and post . The negative post did have some buildup- so I sanded it all. I just took it for a test drive and ALL the malfunction lights are off now . It feels totally normal driving. The codes decoded were p0106 map sensor and P0607 code PCM issue. I remember a few years ago when my original battery died the hard starting - stalling issue thing happened - so thats why immediately went to the battery terminals looking for potential issues.

UPDATE still running well today - I also for good measure tonight put the battery on my charger. If this issue happens again if and when we have a cold snap here in Florida I will know its probably the battery on its way out. I am just so surprised the truck completely freaked out today - due to "some sort" of battery issue throwing codes, running terribly, affecting shift patterns upshifting and downshifting etc ......will keep all advised - this was a weird one and this truck has been pretty solid up until this point.
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sootie007

sootie007

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I would say the dirty connection was the issue, causing under voltage to the PCM and other modules.
My thoughts exactly . Its just weird rather than Ford throwing codes , multiple messages on the driver screen - they should theorize hey somethings up with the battery throw a message stating such fwiw.
 
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sootie007

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So this morning everything cool on the way to work ...no issues. So I start it today around 430 pm leaving work . It sat in the parking lot from 830 am -430 pm. No codes or weirdness reported during the start BUT I noticed the gas pedal from a standing start - acceleration slightly off (sluggish) not normal off idle etc. Then going 40-50mph I could feel the tranny slightly bumping between 2 gears like it couldnt make its mind up which gear to choose. This went on for 15-20 minutes. So I drove around a half hr then things completely cleared up..... the truck started totally acting like normal. I think the battery possibly got topped off -charged up which cleaned up everything. I am headed to the parts store to get a battery tonight and see if thats the underlying issue. I forgot to mention yesterday my truck sat for 6 days straight undriven while I was on a trip. I think the battery might have gone south. I will keep all advised.
 


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These AGM batteries are crazy. My wife’s car has one and a couple of weeks ago started showing all kinds of electrical problems. First dealer couldn’t look at until November. My first thought was battery so in an attempt to get her going, I ran to autozone. They tested the battery and said it was good. Next day, went to a different dealer who could look at the next day. They tested the battery and said it had a bad cell. Replaced battery under warranty. It’s been perfect since.🤷‍♂️
 
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sootie007

sootie007

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So I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start. I immediately headed to AutoZone. Dropped $300 on a new battery and it's still goofed up. The gas pedal is lagging response (very dangerous) and acceleration feels totally flat - mushy. It's like it can't read the gas pedal movements correctly. So it's at the dealer at 76k babied miles. In the service line they couldn't even get it to start to move it. To say the least I'm pissed . This is my first Ford ever in my life and depending on what happens here at the dealership bill wise may be my last.
 

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I still think it's a bad connection in the battery cable runs as they run down to the High Current box and back up to the BJB - the PCM is not getting the power it needs from the PCM Power Relay, the lower High Current box has a history of getting water in it as well as the BJB connectors and another possible is the 225 Amp fuse is partially blown and it's not letting full current flow through it.
 

Ohwell

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As airline tech said, check all the connections, my 2023 had a slightly loose connection from the factory where the battery connects to the high power fusebox under the hood. I had low voltage readings at times from my power ports, and after a while I started getting all kinds of crazy faults. I noticed a small amount of smoke from behind the fusebox, the dealership I bought it from towed it back on a flatbed, found the loose connection and ended up replacing the fusebox and the wiring harness to the fusebox as they were both partially melted and burned. How's your headlights at night, mine seemed dimmer than normal before my truck was fixed, all covered under warranty.
 
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sootie007

sootie007

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Thanks guys......all good suggestions ....will let you know what they find. Nothing from the dealership yet.
 
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sootie007

sootie007

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Did you guys know there is a battery reset procedure ? I didnt and obviously didnt do it after replacing the battery ........Dealer still working on it....cleared codes so far doing more testing they said.
 

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Yes - well documented on here.
 

Jason B

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With all the sensors and nanny state electronics, "Low Battery Voltage" message isn't one of them. Crazy, isn't it?
 
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sootie007

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In the shop 4 days $618 so far,not fixed, they called Fords hotline for help, and now they need to "disassemble" and look for a short ???? Until they locate and photograph the supposed short the extended warranty plan Ford sold me will not pay the $618...and again we aren't fixed nor do we have a diagnosis yet .
 

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Just to confirm - Due to me reading the body of your post (Original) and the Thread Title
I read the body as P0607 and used that for my diagnostic.
I just caught the Title as P06A7.
There is a huge difference between them and P06A7 is a VREF Circuit code.
Sorry I did not catch that until now.
VREF Circuits are sometimes difficult to T-Shoot, but with you getting a P0106 Code (MAPT) Sensor
I would start on that circuit.
A Short on this circuit would explain all the drivability issues due to what is on the circuit.

Here is the VREF for the MAPT circuit and most likely where the issue lies, even a bad sensor (Internally shorted) can create this issue and the only way to find it is (Isolation of Sensors and Circuit Wiring) and using a meter tapped into the circuit and noting when the 5-Volt VREF Returns.

As I have noted below - Sometimes the wiring diagrams can mislead, and it may be the issue here and that although the T-Case and AC-Press Sensor show them being on a separate circuit it is sometimes shared with another VREF output - This MAY be the case with your issue and the T-Case Motor or VREF Feed to it may be the root issue.
But I am also taking into account that the only codes are for (VREF & MAPT) so that would be the first circuit I would check.

I am only highlighting the VREF Circuit, but the signal return side can also trigger the same issues.

MAPT VREF.webp
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