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Manual rearview power options (camera and or upgrade rearview mirror)

shockea

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I am wanting to run my dashboard camera in my 2020 XLT, and am much intrigued by previous threads where power was tapped from the rearview mirror area, but mine is the manual variety. Im also interested in upgrading the rearview mirror to either an OEM or aftermarket dimmable (and have seen threads on that) so this morning I went exploring.

I managed to get the covers and mirror off to gain an understanding of what I do have available to me "under the hood," but am a bit dismayed that while other threads mention a grey wiring connector, I do not seem to have that on mine, even if I wanted to install an OEM auto-dimming mirror. Instead there's a black 4 wire connector going to the front ASDA camera and a small 2 wire connector for the defrost.

Am I missing something that puts me SOL & JWF, or did Ford change connector colors between 2019 and 2020?

Here's a full view of what is available to me:
1000005637.jpg
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shockea

shockea

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Sounds to me, then, that unless I want to dig a lot deeper into this and install that wiring harness (which I assume would mean a job and a half), I'm SOL & JWF. That's what I needed to know! I'll look into other ways of running my camera.

Thanks!

The wiring harness to the windshield is different if you don't have the auto-dimming mirror.

Check this post from @airline tech: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/dash-cam-wiring-a-pillar-airbag-danger.33528/post-747602

If you have the correct harness, then you can either tap into it, or get the pigtail from Dongar to integrate the camera: https://dongar.tech/products/ford3pin
 

airline tech

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I am wanting to run my dashboard camera in my 2020 XLT, and am much intrigued by previous threads where power was tapped from the rearview mirror area, but mine is the manual variety. Im also interested in upgrading the rearview mirror to either an OEM or aftermarket dimmable (and have seen threads on that) so this morning I went exploring.

I managed to get the covers and mirror off to gain an understanding of what I do have available to me "under the hood," but am a bit dismayed that while other threads mention a grey wiring connector, I do not seem to have that on mine, even if I wanted to install an OEM auto-dimming mirror. Instead there's a black 4 wire connector going to the front ASDA camera and a small 2 wire connector for the defrost.

Am I missing something that puts me SOL & JWF, or did Ford change connector colors between 2019 and 2020?

Here's a full view of what is available to me:
1000005637.jpg
Ok, you would need the Harness that runs down from the (Hood Liner) to have all the wiring in it
14 Wires vs the 4 that you have, normally so far, all 14 wires are run here and then the bottom side of that connection is where (you would purchase) the adapter harness to extend out the features that you do not have - This would give you the connectors for Auto-Dim Mirror, Rain Sensor

ceiling
behind mirror5.jpg


So, note the Input Harness # 14334
You may be able to get this harness, but first you need to determine if the other end of the harness (where it connects) has the wires that are needed, to make the Harness # 14334 bring all power to the C919 connector.
The issue with adding this harness is it routes above the head liner to feed (ceiling lighting) doable, but some labor involved.
It depends on how bad you want to tap power (at the mirror), is it worth the extra labor and wire checks to verify the transition at C903 or C913 depending on trim, is the wires you need terminated at this point or are they not in the main harness at all. (Prior to C903 / C913)
If the wiring is there (at that junction) then you would need to get (2) harness
1 to feed from C903/C913 up to the C919 connector and then get the short harness to tap from C919 to give you the Auto-Dim mirror connector.
Then the (Dongar) Tap Harness to Tap off of the Auto-Dim mirror connector to feed into the USB powered (Dash Cam)


Note: Harness # 14334 transitions off of the main harness and runs up the A-Pillar and covers everything noted in the diagram.
The Harness 14G540 is the short harness behind the mirror

Harness 14334.webp


If you pull the cover off of the A-Pillar and check which connector you have as they are wired different
You want Pin #7 to be on the main harness to be (Auto-Dim) power feed
So this will require the connector to be C913

C913 - Pin #7 = Blue/Green Wire - Comes off of fuse #36
if
C903 then pin #7 = ACM Feed into the harness for the Overhead Microphone this will be a White/ Green wire

so, they are wired differently, and it solely depends on what is in the main harness side of that connector.

If C913 then you can get the harness and tap from here and run it up to the mirror, if not then the required power for the Auto-Dim is not available at this junction.

Main Harness Connector C903 or C913 - Depending on how its wired
The main harness 14401 will be the Female Side of the connection
Pin #7 will be (C913) - Auto-Dim Power (You Need This for what you want)
Pin #7 will be (C903) - Microphone (Overhead) ACM Input
C903 harness side will not have the wiring for the Auto-Dim mirror in that connector.

C903-913.webp
 
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shockea

shockea

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Much obliged for the detailed reply. And this definitely confirms that this won't be the route I go. If I am going this length, I may as well hardwire the camera down the A pillar and into the fuse box like many others have done.

Ok, you would need the Harness that runs down from the (Hood Liner) to have all the wiring in it
14 Wires vs the 4 that you have, normally so far, all 14 wires are run here and then the bottom side of that connection is where (you would purchase) the adapter harness to extend out the features that you do not have - This would give you the connectors for Auto-Dim Mirror, Rain Sensor
<snip>
 


subquark

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Much obliged for the detailed reply. And this definitely confirms that this won't be the route I go. If I am going this length, I may as well hardwire the camera down the A pillar and into the fuse box like many others have done.
Yep, no Dongar love for my XL but the fuse tap down the A pillar was easier than I thought. Mine's been working fine for over 2 years.

I tapped the always-on fuse 29.

My install: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-607735

1741006360864-jy.jpg
 

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If I read ? correctly, the instructions on a couple different cameras STILL require running a wire down the a pillar to get all the features working correctly when the truck is parked ...
 

subquark

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If I read ? correctly, the instructions on a couple different cameras STILL require running a wire down the a pillar to get all the features working correctly when the truck is parked ...
Yes, for parking protection/sentinel type activity.

Most dashcams have a parking mode, and some even record 24/7.

Mine comes on if the truck is bumped but it takes a few seconds and is pretty useless for my brand. Others come on almost instantly.

So mine is wired to an always-on fuse. I'm not sure if the Dongar, for Rangers that can use them, provide always-on power. I believe my wife's Mazda Dongar does power her cam always.

An alternative to an always-on fuse, is a dedicated dashcam battery pack. I can't remember if @AzScorpion had that kind of setup.

The batteries are quite expensive, a bit bulky, and need recharge time. Soupie's dump runs are too short and I don't know how well that battety system would work for me.

They aren't lithium batteries due to the potential horrific fire situation with those being constantly charged.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/battery-packs

1741051703904-98.jpg
 
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AzScorpion

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Yes, for parking protection/sentinel type activity.

Most dashcams have a parking mode, and some even record 24/7.

Mine comes on if the truck is bumped but it takes a few seconds and is pretty useless for my brand. Others come on almost instantly.

So mine is wired to an always-on fuse. I'm not sure if the Dongar, for Rangers that can use them, provide always-on power. I believe my wife's Mazda Dongar does power her cam always.

An alternative to an always-on fuse, is a dedicated dashcam battery pack. I can't remember if @AzScorpion had that kind of setup.

The batteries are quite expensive, a bit bulky, and need recharge time. Soupie's dump runs are too short and I don't know how well that battety system would work for me.

They aren't lithium batteries due to the potential horrific fire situation with those being constantly charged.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/battery-packs

1741051703904-98.jpg
I didn't go the battery route because I really never left my truck unattended for long periods while we were out. I used the ODB power adapter (not all dash cams can use these) and had the unit set to parking mode (or whatever it was called :)) so that way it did draw much power when we were out shopping or at an event. Once I got home I just pulled the ODB power out since there was no use recording my garage wall. ?
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