4th gear slip- 88k miles Update: Transmission Replaced

[ctechbob]

Sounds like a slow valve body to me.

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[TJC]

Yes, mainly on the upshift, but primarily in the fourth gear. I did feel it slip in 2nd today and will get the occasional slip on the downshift. I do see it in the tach as well as feel it. It's bad enough that it feels similar to me hitting the brakes and then accelerating again. The momentum is enough to make you lean forward without meaning to. It does it in sport mode, manual mode, and tow haul.

When I purchased the truck, I also got an extended warranty on it and pulled the paperwork out to verify that it covers transmission, which it does. If all goes well, I plan to take it to the dealer while I am on my cruise next month and before I start the new job in January.

Edit: I absolutely love this truck, just disappointed in the idea of needing trans work already. Starting Monday, it'll be at the body shop from when I got hit by the idiot trying to go straight in a turn-only lane while I was turning in the outside turn lane earlier this week. Minor damage overall and still driveable, just now how I thought I'd spend Thanksgiving week.

If you do manage to get a replacement transmission, change the fluid at regular short intervals (25K - 30K) and add in LubeGard Platinum. It will last much longer.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

Sounds like a slow valve body to me.

Is there any chance that I will also get the CDF drum replaced as well if the valve body is going?

 

[ctechbob]

Is there any chance that I will also get the CDF drum replaced as well if the valve body is going?

Probably not. Usually they'll step through the TSB, starting with flashing the TCM. If that doesn't work, they'll replace the valve body. Only after everything fails, and usually repeatedly, will they start looking at tearing into the unit.

To be clear, what is happening isn't the valve body failing per say. There are issues with the valves where they slow down over time, be that from wear, contamination, or both. This causes erratic shifting. Ford has tried to program their way out of it, but you can't program out wear, or contamination.

If you look through the Sonnax catalog for 10R80's you see that they've worked to update the valves and hopefully eliminate the problem. Dunno if that works, it should given their reputation. I don't think we have anyone that's had a 10R80 rebuilt by a 3rd party and updated yet.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

If you do manage to get a replacement transmission, change the fluid at regular short intervals (25K - 30K) and add in LubeGard Platinum. It will last much longer.

To do them that frequently, I would definitely need the PPE pan and that dipstick to make it economical. The $600 or so that I paid for the shop I trust to change the trans fluid and filter stung a little.

 

[ctechbob]

To do them that frequently, I would definitely need the PPE pan and that dipstick to make it economical. The $600 or so that I paid for the shop I trust to change the trans fluid and filter stung a little.

Uhh....ouch.

If you have a funnel and a 3/4" wrench, there's not much to loose by trying the Lubegard. $15 and you may well eliminate the problems you're having.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

Probably not. Usually they'll step through the TSB, starting with flashing the TCM. If that doesn't work, they'll replace the valve body. Only after everything fails, and usually repeatedly, will they start looking at tearing into the unit.

Hmm, maybe I'll sit on it a little longer then. From my understanding, the cdf drum on these trucks is a high failure item, and I would really rather not pay out of pocket for this repair if I can avoid it.

 

[ctechbob]

Hmm, maybe I'll sit on it a little longer then. From my understanding, the cdf drum on these trucks is a high failure item, and I would really rather not pay out of pocket for this repair if I can avoid it.

If it ends up being the CDF, then LG won't help, you'll know almost immediately. CDF doesn't get better with an additive since it is related to the pressure circuits in the trans. Since the bushing doesn't move back it just starts bad and gets worse.

The valves, those we can (usually) free up.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

Uhh....ouch.

If you have a funnel and a 3/4" wrench, there's not much to loose by trying the Lubegard. $15 and you may well eliminate the problems you're having.

I've got the tools, just not a level surface to accurately measure the amount of fluid in the pan but I do plan on giving this a try as so many have suggested it. Currently planned, it will be in the body shop starting on Monday, and I expect it to be there for at least a week.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

If it ends up being the CDF, then LG won't help, you'll know almost immediately. CDF doesn't get better with an additive since it is related to the pressure circuits in the trans. Since the bushing doesn't move back it just starts bad and gets worse.

The valves, those we can (usually) free up.

I plan on trying the lubeguard as it is highly recommended here. I know it sounds weird and kinda messed up, but I was kinda hopeful for a new trans that had the improved parts and no miles compared to my original unit with 88k on it. Plus, it would be nice to know the warranty wasn't a waste of money.

 

[ctechbob]

I plan on trying the lubeguard as it is highly recommended here. I know it sounds weird and kinda messed up, but I was kinda hopeful for a new trans that had the improved parts and no miles compared to my original unit with 88k on it. Plus, it would be nice to know the warranty wasn't a waste of money.

Is it the Ford ESP or a 3rd party warranty?

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

Is it the Ford ESP or a 3rd party warranty?

Third party. I figured it will be an uphill battle either way and I didn't buy the truck at a Ford dealer.

 

[TJC]

You don't need the PPE pan to replace the fluid. I own a PPE Deep pan, but have not installed it yet. I will install the pan when I replace the filter at 50K miles. I use a $16 pump from Amazon to pull the fluid out the BMS Dipstick (The Fitzstick) tube. If you measure the fluid like I mentioned earlier you do not need to be on a perfectly flat surface.

Install the dipstick. Then use these two methods to insure you get the fluid level correct.

Check your fluid level on the dipstick after the truck has sit overnight and not started where you will be doing the transfer of fluid. Note the fluid level on the dipstick and dimple or mark the fluid level with a Sharpy Pen on the dipstick.

I used an inexpensive HF spring loaded dimple punch to mark my dipstick level when cold as I always use my garage location to change the fluid. This cold check method will only work when the truck is in the exact location where the measurement took place.

Then transfer out the fluid into two 1 gallon containers marked at the quart levels. To accurately mark the jugs Fill the jugs with a quart of water and mark the level, and repeat.

The pump transfers the fluid slow enough for you to stop it exactly on the 4th quart mark of the first plastic jug. (Use a milk jug or a windshield washer jug that you can see through.) Change jugs and pull the rest until the transmission pan is empty.

Tip: I placed a brass fitting on the drain tube end going into the jug to keep the tube in the jug. That extra weight is insurance that you will not have a mess to clean up.

Replace with the exact amount of fluid leaving room for the bottle of LubeGard Platinum.

Let the truck sit for 30 minutes and check the fluid level with the dipstick. It should at or near reference point you made before beginning the drain. If you used the Sharpie Pen to mark the fluid location on the dipstick do not install the dipstick until you are ready to measure the level. I am not sure the ink will be permanent.

DO NOT OVERFILL Do not start the truck until you have validated the fluid level to be exactly where the original level was.

Trust the fluid level replacement method, and use the cold fluid level dipstick check to validate.

Additional Info:
The fluid must be at or above 206F to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. It takes sustained highway speed driving to get it close to that temp. The ULV fluid expands dramatically when hot.

One ford mechanic states the fluid level will be a block below the 206F level when you start the truck and immediately run it through the transmission selector at a 10 second intervals. But the truck must be on a level surface. He had his truck on a lift when he checked it.

Hope this helps.

 

[got3fords]

Simplest approach, get the Fitzstick, verify oil level, add LugeGuard.
Second simplest, get the Fitzstick, change the fluid thru the Fitzstick with aforementioned pump, add LubeGuard.
Third, get the Fitzstick, get a dealer oil flush, add the Lubeguard.
I went with the third and am very satisfied.

 

[gtyates]

Is there any chance that I will also get the CDF drum replaced as well if the valve body is going?

Hopefully you will not the cdf work. The tech that did mine noted the the valves showed significant scoring on them, and it was the valves involved in 2-3-4 upshifts. Mine was apparently easy to diagnose. I am now approaching 79k miles and no issues since the repair. It is surprising how smooth this transmission can shift with the corrected part in it. My dealer aid they have seen very few Rangers with the cdf failure, though it does happen. They mostly see this on the F150's.

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