Raptor Grille Light Install Help

[Matthew Hensley]

I bought a Raptor style grille for my 2019 ranger and it came with some lights but no directions for install. I am not the best when it comes to automotive electrical stuff so seeking some help. The three lights plug into the main wire but the wire doesn't have a plug, its just positive and negative wires so I am not sure what to do from here. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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[Bsthroop]

The one I got had a wye that connected into the line feeding the side maker light on the left fender. That one looks like you will need to splice it in.

 

[MJA1876]

Gotta bump this. I've got the same "issue." I'm also not electrically inclined. Where would these two wires need to go?

 

[AzScorpion]

Here's a video from Stage 3 showing the instal if you have these type of Raptor grille lights.

 

[cfhgarza]

Gotta bump this. I've got the same "issue." I'm also not electrically inclined. Where would these two wires need to go?

Red one needs to be spliced to a switched power source, black needs to be grounded. I'd use a fuse tap and find a switch circuit in the engine bay fuse box

 

[MJA1876]

Here's a video from Stage 3 showing the instal if you have these type of Raptor grille lights.

Appreciate it, but my grille and wiring harness does not have a plug to allow it to piggyback onto the sidemarker. I've got the exact same wiring as the OP.

 

[MJA1876]

Red one needs to be spliced to a switched power source, black needs to be grounded. I'd use a fuse tap and find a switch circuit in the engine bay fuse box

Switch circuit? As in something that gets switched on? Or that is on with the ignition?

 

[airline tech]

If you want the Grille Lights to be (ON) with the Parking Lights, the same function if you had the harness (T-Harness) then you need to be tapped onto that circuit.

So, you have 2 options.

Cut the (+) wire feeding the (RF) side marker light and (Environmental Splice) into it and then run the Ground to a nearby body ground.
or

Find the (T-Harness) that others have used for this and splice into that harness and then install a connector to the Grille Light harness to make the connection to the (T-Harness)
This can be done via (Connector & Pins) - The Correct Way or (Environmental Splice) a premade connector on the end of the Grille Light harness.

Basically, to keep the OEM wire harness intact, it is best to make any wire cuts/taps etc on a cheap throw away (T-Harness)

I have not installed the Grille Lights, but I do believe that the (T-Harness) can be purchased separately outside of the full kit (Lights & Grille)

The abovementioned of Switched Power, referred to Ignition (Switch -ON) the issue with that is, no matter what position the Headlight switch is in, the Grille Lights will ALWAYS be powered.
This can be done, but tapping into the actual circuit is best for light control.

 

[MJA1876]

If you want the Grille Lights to be (ON) with the Parking Lights, the same function if you had the harness (T-Harness) then you need to be tapped onto that circuit.

So, you have 2 options.

Cut the (+) wire feeding the (RF) side marker light and (Environmental Splice) into it and then run the Ground to a nearby body ground.
or

Find the (T-Harness) that others have used for this and splice into that harness and then install a connector to the Grille Light harness to make the connection to the (T-Harness)
This can be done via (Connector & Pins) - The Correct Way or (Environmental Splice) a premade connector on the end of the Grille Light harness.

Basically, to keep the OEM wire harness intact, it is best to make any wire cuts/taps etc on a cheap throw away (T-Harness)

I have not installed the Grille Lights, but I do believe that the (T-Harness) can be purchased separately outside of the full kit (Lights & Grille)

The abovementioned of Switched Power, referred to Ignition (Switch -ON) the issue with that is, no matter what position the Headlight switch is in, the Grille Lights will ALWAYS be powered.
This can be done, but tapping into the actual circuit is best for light control.

So from what I can tell, the "easiest" and most straightforward way would be to just tap into the wire going to the sidemarker. Now time to do research on environmental splices and tapping into wires...

 

[airline tech]

Environmental Splice = Sealed but Splice with a Heat Shrink over it to protect from moisture intrusion.

The Side Marker connector will have 2 wires:
Brown / Yellow = Positive
Black / Grey = Ground

Come up the harness about 12 to 18 inches from the connector to splice, or any easy access to it just allow space (12 to 18 inches) from the connector for (resplicing) if needed.
You can either run the ground to a good/clean body ground or just splice both wires, as the ground wire for the OEM side marker light runs to body ground anyway.

 

[cfhgarza]

Switch circuit? As in something that gets switched on? Or that is on with the ignition?

On with the ignition.

Tapping into the side markers like Airline tech suggested would also work well but I don't like splicing factory harness if I don't have to

 

[airline tech]

You have the option to run a fuse tap to the fuse box (BJB-Eng Bay) and add a tap to a fuse that is only (switched power) = (Ignition -On) however just be aware you will not be able to turn them off without adding in a switch.

Do the lights give a (fused power source) requirement?

I think they should be fine on a 10-Amp fuse and there are 2 Switched Power sources @ 10-Amp in the BJB - Fuse #19 and Fuse #22 and I believe these are the Fuses others have tapped for various exterior lighting power.
There were some unused spots on the earlier years showing (Not Used) with a wired power source and a fuse installed. IE Fuse #24 would be a great spot - buts its empty.
You may doublecheck yours but with my 22 it is now an empty space.

They have since removed the (Not Used) circuits from the box including the fuse, the slot is there but it's just an empty space and no contacts for a fuse.

 

[MJA1876]

You have the option to run a fuse tap to the fuse box (BJB-Eng Bay) and add a tap to a fuse that is only (switched power) = (Ignition -On) however just be aware you will not be able to turn them off without adding in a switch.

Do the lights give a (fused power source) requirement?

I think they should be fine on a 10-Amp fuse and there are 2 Switched Power sources @ 10-Amp in the BJB - Fuse #19 and Fuse #22 and I believe these are the Fuses others have tapped for various exterior lighting power.
There were some unused spots on the earlier years showing (Not Used) with a wired power source and a fuse installed. IE Fuse #24 would be a great spot - buts its empty.
You may doublecheck yours but with my 22 it is now an empty space.

They have since removed the (Not Used) circuits from the box including the fuse, the slot is there but it's just an empty space and no contacts for a fuse.

No power requirement that I can find for the lights. I messaged the seller and they said most people opt for the fuse tap route, which from what I can tell would be the easiest to accomplish for someone with limited electrical knowledge.

 

[MJA1876]

I've got a '23, and I'm looking at the diagram online now, and it appears that both 24 and 26 (both 10A) in the engine bay are "Not Used (spare)." Can I add a new circuit with a fuse tap in either of those spots, or would it be better just to tap into a fuse that is being used?

 

[airline tech]

I've got a '23, and I'm looking at the diagram online now, and it appears that both 24 and 26 (both 10A) in the engine bay are "Not Used (spare)." Can I add a new circuit with a fuse tap in either of those spots, or would it be better just to tap into a fuse that is being used?

If you physically look at the BJB on the truck, I suspect you will find:
A physical slot for Fuse #24 - But there will be (NO) contacts for it, just simply a plastic hole.
Think of it as a wall receptacle / socket physically on the wall but no wiring running to it.
and
Fuses #25 & 26 are a 3-Legged fuse, fuse 25 is active - ABS Module and #26 may or may not be pinned for power (would have to physically check)

So, IF you can find a 3-Legged (Fuse Tap) via add a fuse, this would be a good tap source at fuse #26 (If it is pinned for power)
It would look like this
So, for this to work and use fuse #26 (not used)- all 3 legs of the BJB will need to have contacts in the box.

Plus: Note that the blade style fuses in the BJB are (MICRO-Fuses) and they are smaller than the standard Mini fuses, so if you use a fuse tap, the fuse tap will need to be the MICRO style fuse tap.

Example of the 3-Leg Micro Tap

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