Help me install my tacky light ✨️😎

[Racket]

I watched a couple videos on installing the Putco front grill light and in a moment of impulsive decision making bought one.

I'm already having issues with the instructions and the light itself but when it comes to the wiring I've become even more frustrated. The Putco harness to connect the positive is supposed to tap into a fuse and the run/drive fuse is sandwiched between some relays that won't allow the wire to clear. I guess that would require some straight extensions but worse is that the wire is supposed to run between the seal on the fuse box cover.

I removed the under hood fusebox to see if I could run the wire in some other way but even with the bottom cover off it's solid and I'm not drilling into it.

I've got the Lariat with the LED DRLs and I'd consider tapping into the light harness to do this. My understanding is the DRLs get two different voltages to affect brightness and if that can work on the grill badge then cool.

In other threads - if I read it right (?) it was suggested there are separate controls for the left and right lights perhaps something in FORSCAN?

I'm asking for anyone's experience in accessing and tapping the appropriate lead. The run/drive fuse is 10 Amp, the Putco comes with a five Amp.

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[LaBalbe]

I also have a Lariat with the LED DRLs, and I have the amber grill lights, which plugged into the driver's side marker light, right behind the wheel well. The grill lights came with a plug that allowed you to chain together the grill lights & the markers, much like you can do with Christmas lights. Apparently I could have also linked them to the DRLs so that they'd be on whenever the DRLs are, but I opted to just have them work with the proper headlights; I'm assuming that the former would have changed where I plugged them in, but I didn't see the point when visibility isn't low enough to need at least the positional lights.

 

[airline tech]

Yes, the BBJ (Engine Bay Fuse Box) is a sealed unit and I believe is a circuit board, so most via (this forum) use the piggyback off of the side marker (parking) light

But please define - The Run / Drive Fuse (Fuse #) you are trying to tap into

 

[Racket]

I admit my research thus far has been preliminary as far as considering how to approach it. Looked at the fusebox:

And fuse #20 is 'lighting control'

From their instructions:

So I got that wrong, they are saying #19?

(Appreciate your input @airline tech !)

I just don't think running a wire through the cover seal looks good either.

Putco sells a harness adapter for the 6G Ranger which would be ideal, but not for our orphaned model.

Elsewhere on the forum I found discussion about getting a headlight harness sold out of Australia that will fit our US truck that could be modified and is cheaper than the $50 Putco might ask for one. Well close to the same with currency conversion and shipping to the US.

That's where I'm at in the information gathering process so far.

Pinging @Colo_Ranger or @lukdeg for input?

 

[Chris M]

You want this awfully bad for something you self-described as tacky. I'm amazed at your dedication. Don't forget pics when you're done!

 

[Racket]

You want this awfully bad for something you self-described as tacky.

...and stupid expensive. There are cheaper alternatives of course but I don't know about fit, finish or durability.

I've got four payments left on my 0% loan from Ford and I wanted to 'gift' myself something to keep it looking current.

But a quality install is paramount.

 

[Racket]

I guess I'll try to figure out the LED DRL voltage/current thing next. Pretty sure it's always on in my case though I don't know about brightness at night. If the emblem would mimic it that would be ideal.

I went ahead and ordered the Aussie headlight harness.

 

[Racket]

I'm all in at this point having ordered the aussie headlight harness.

Now I'm curious about how this will adapt to my LED factory headlights... IIRC LED brightness is controlled by current and I've read (but never noticed) that the DRLs dim at night - which would be great for the badge too. I wonder how I can check ahead of time if it will be sufficient to drive the startup sequence and keep the light on? The harness for the 6G Rangers doesn't appear to have any kind of module and I haven't seen any feedback on how it works.

 

[Racket]

Hi all, this project was put on a back burner for a while for reasons but I'm starting to review it.

The Putco plug n' play harness for the 6G Rangers takes power from the light circuit to run the badge and while I bought the Aussie light jumper to modify for this I don't know if it will be smart to just tap into the (LED) DRL circuit or incorporate a current/voltage sensing trigger/relay arrangement. On the one hand an overly complicated setup isn't my goal but not having to run wires into the fusebox is my goal.

PAC makes a voltage sensing trigger - don't know how weatherproof it is;

Maybe go to the output on the BCM for the trigger, then to an under hood relay for power.
I would prefer a solid state relay for power to the badge. I've seen some that fade on lights and have a dimmer lead but since the Putco has a built-in sequence I don't think it necessary and might not work. Maybe I'll blow $20 to see. Looking at a DRL add-on module with two control wires: one with 'ACC' and a headlight input. I expect with just accy pwr it will be full bright but once HL gets voltage it dims.


Clearly I am in research mode.

 

[Racket]

I've noticed a couple other Fords with the Putco grill badge and frankly even with DRLs on it's annoying bright during the day. I have a DRL dimmer accessory that illuminates DRL at full power until an input voltage triggers a dimmer - I've tested it on the Putco and it will dim the badge.

What I want is the inverse operation; dim during the day and full power when the headlights come on. I don't think this will work the way I'd want with the DRL conteoller so I'm wishing I could build a circuit instead. Last time I did stuff like that was with a breadboard and wire.

 

[Dereku]

You could probably make your own harness pretty easily. All this plugs are available on amazon.

 

[lukdeg]

Hi all, this project was put on a back burner for a while for reasons but I'm starting to review it.

The Putco plug n' play harness for the 6G Rangers takes power from the light circuit to run the badge and while I bought the Aussie light jumper to modify for this I don't know if it will be smart to just tap into the (LED) DRL circuit or incorporate a current/voltage sensing trigger/relay arrangement. On the one hand an overly complicated setup isn't my goal but not having to run wires into the fusebox is my goal.

PAC makes a voltage sensing trigger - don't know how weatherproof it is;

Maybe go to the output on the BCM for the trigger, then to an under hood relay for power.
I would prefer a solid state relay for power to the badge. I've seen some that fade on lights and have a dimmer lead but since the Putco has a built-in sequence I don't think it necessary and might not work. Maybe I'll blow $20 to see. Looking at a DRL add-on module with two control wires: one with 'ACC' and a headlight input. I expect with just accy pwr it will be full bright but once HL gets voltage it dims.


Clearly I am in research mode.

I bought the same plug from Australia that you probably refer to and the DRL circuit doesn't seems to have a high enough Amp to trigger an additional light, I did not try with a relay to see if it would activate it tho.

 

[Racket]

I bought the same plug from Australia that you probably refer to and the DRL circuit doesn't seems to have a high enough Amp to trigger an additional light, I did not try with a relay to see if it would activate it tho.

That's where I'm at right now. Going to try a current sensing solid state relay for power, then another with a dual sensing switch and dimmer circuit to give me reduced current with DRLs/ignition then full power when headlights come on. I dislike cobbling this together but I'll probably add a fusebox off the battery that will let me add under hood lights.

I had looked at designing circuitry to do this but I'm not experienced enough to prototype then fab up a board for this.

If this works satisfactorily and the red lighted tailgate badge ever goes on sale 'cheap' I may do something similar out back with the marker lights/brake lights as triggers.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

I have the LightForce harness and its great for a trigger wire.

I also used this fuse with an add-a-fuse. I'm trying to read and catch up, but feel free to ask me questions.

 

[Racket]

I've really put this on a back burner because of the holidays/weather/work and other distractions (I know, standardexcuse). Talk about bling, for the 6G some 'signature lux' company offers this:

Here's what mine will do:


Now I'll feel inadequate

However 'signature lux' offers Ranger Raptor 'laser' puddle lights for just over $100. I got these off Amazon for about $40. I had one of the led replacements I originally go out so I added to my tacky light collection.

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