I appreciate the detailed response. I did notice that the bolt channels are a little wide for the 13mm nut, but I figured a washer would do the trick. My main concern was the clearance behind the hood as you mentioned, but being that those channels are a little wide, I figure sliding the bracket...
They're from Rough Country. You have to do some cutting to some plastic trim in the bumper, but other than that, it was a straightforward install.
They are quite bright too, 1400 lumens a piece I believe, but I'm very happy with them for only $95.
Howdy,
I recently installed some 6" LED bars in the small holes in the front bumper. I now have the off-road light bug and have set my sights on some ditch lights.
After researching for a bit, I found some brackets that appear to fit, but all the pictures in the description show a non N.A...
Howdy,
I recently installed the Rough Country 6in LED's for our front bumpers. I had them working before I put the bumper back on, but once the bumper did go back on, the lights eventually cut off. The fuse has blown both times I've changed it and reconnected the wiring.
I think my issue may...
Just trying to get all my thoughts out here...would using this adapter with built in resistors add enough load to the circuit so that the truck recognizes it? Seems a little more straightforward for an electrical knowledge lacking individual like myself.
Also, I have a spare 7-pin to 4-pin adapter. I've tested this adapter with the 4-pin connector tester, and the lights on the tester lit up properly, both running and turn signals. I've read conflicting information on if they have resistors built into them or not. I've tested the lights both with...
Alright, I tested both LED taillights and they both work, maybe a little too well (I shouldn't have looked directly into them lol). What do you mean by the lead for the car side? And connecting to a 12V power source? I rather not have to jack with the wiring on the truck, if that's what you're...
That would make sense that the LED's don't draw enough power to tell the truck they're connected. So for the resistor pack, how would I go about doing that?
They're the Kenwood submersible LED kit from Harbor Freight. I did not test them before wiring to the trailer. Not an electrical expert if that isn't clear already haha, just tryin my best
Howdy yall,
I recently picked up a trailer light kit, and I've finished wiring everything up, but I've had no luck getting any lights to turn on. I've plugged in a 4-pin connection tester, and everything worked fine there.
I've got all three of the ground points (one from each taillight, one...
Couldn't find a 3 legged fuse tap in stock, so I went with the typical 2 legged tap. From what I can see, there IS a connection to fuse 24. I've attached a picture just to ensure I'm seeing the right thing.
I've got a '23, and I'm looking at the diagram online now, and it appears that both 24 and 26 (both 10A) in the engine bay are "Not Used (spare)." Can I add a new circuit with a fuse tap in either of those spots, or would it be better just to tap into a fuse that is being used?
No power requirement that I can find for the lights. I messaged the seller and they said most people opt for the fuse tap route, which from what I can tell would be the easiest to accomplish for someone with limited electrical knowledge.
So from what I can tell, the "easiest" and most straightforward way would be to just tap into the wire going to the sidemarker. Now time to do research on environmental splices and tapping into wires...
Appreciate it, but my grille and wiring harness does not have a plug to allow it to piggyback onto the sidemarker. I've got the exact same wiring as the OP.