Tapping into dimmable lights circuit in cab?

[Oingoboingoagogo]

For Ref: I am talking about these switches - varies depending on options on how they are laid out.
Each row of switches should be a separate switch.

Borrowed Pic (Ref)

The Gear Shifter is the other location - that the backlighting was deleted. (PRNDS)

The 4WD - Switch is separate power.

Thank you. Looking at those switch cables now.

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[Oingoboingoagogo]

With my Ranger I used the same body mount the factory used (red arrow). I had quite an extensive 12V system in place and never ran into issues.

Thanks for the tip. I just wired up my grounds here. Thank you OFC and Bill too!

 

[Fawnbuster]

Just curious, where is your glare coming from?

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

Just curious, where is your glare coming from?

What do you mean?

 

[Fawnbuster]

"This is to prevent the glare of a bright interior light when driving at night."

I keep my interior lights dimmed just enough to read the dash as needed at night without diminishing my night vision, worked midnights for over half my career so I completely understand glare.

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

"This is to prevent the glare of a bright interior light when driving at night."

I keep my interior lights dimmed just enough to read the dash as needed at night without diminishing my night vision, worked midnights for over half my career so I completely understand glare.

Oh, right. Pardon my slowness. I’ve installed a backlit button for an ooga horn, and it’s a bit bright at 100%. Here’s a photo of it:

 

[Fawnbuster]

Oh, right. Pardon my slowness. I’ve installed a backlit button for an ooga horn, and it’s a bit bright at 100%. Here’s a photo of it:

Gotcha. We used to have an ooga horn on our lawn tractor when I was a kid. Shame that light can't be programmed to be a red backlight. Any chance of putting a dark smoke tint on it? Our Caprice police package had a dark out mode on the dash lights but Chevy forgot to kill that huge led speedometer light. We had a pc code card I used to stick over it. Some of the guys found a vinyl static tint cling to use.

With the placement of that button, had you considered just disconnecting the backlight function and press the button by feel in the dark? Muscle memory builds up quickly.

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

Gotcha. We used to have an ooga horn on our lawn tractor when I was a kid. Shame that light can't be programmed to be a red backlight. Any chance of putting a dark smoke tint on it? Our Caprice police package had a dark out mode on the dash lights but Chevy forgot to kill that huge led speedometer light. We had a pc code card I used to stick over it. Some of the guys found a vinyl static tint cling to use.

With the placement of that button, had you considered just disconnecting the backlight function and press the button by feel in the dark? Muscle memory builds up quickly.

Thanks for your suggestions. I actually quite like the color of the light: it matches the other orange lights on the dash and I think a layperson might not realize it’s a mod. As for the brightness, I will eventually pursue @airline tech’s suggestion and try one of the power taps from a nearby switch. For now though it’s going to be bright—other work to do!

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

Gotcha. We used to have an ooga horn on our lawn tractor when I was a kid.

Also, this sounds ideal. Not only to have a tractor... but one with an ooga horn. Wow.

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

Either one of the 2 front console switches would be the easiest.
The Shift Lever at one time was illuminated but that got deleted (Year?) however the wiring is still in the connecter for the shifter (Intergrated) with it.

But pull either switch - up front - Parking / ASS / Traction - Etc
and Pin #5 = Power and Pin #3 = Ground

Pin 1 - starts at the bottom

Hi @airline tech! One more question for you. And anyone else who'd like to chime in. How do you typically prefer to tap for power on a a plug like this? Do you modify the connector itself, or do you tap the wire somehow? I can strip and solder but I imagine there is another preferred method.

 

[airline tech]

You could use a wiretap like this.

The best thing to do would be to use a - Back Probe and slide down the wire with the connector connected and then tie in the lighted switch.
This would be for a TEST before you wiretap or splice into the wire.
As I mentioned, I am thinking you MAY NOT get the results you are seeking.

You state you have a separate power feed for the backlight.

Unknown Questions

1. Is it DIMMABLE without the light flickering or turning off? can the switch light handle a dimmed light?
I have a feeling it is not and if you reduce power (dim) the light may simply start flickering.

2. Will the Trucks, Backlighting circuit allow another light source on the circuit without causing issues? The flickering from above may cause the trucks circuit to do the same.

The extra draw on the circuit MAY trigger the FET (internal protection) of the circuit to shut the whole circuit off.

By Back Probing the circuit will allow you to TEST both of these unanswered questions before you tap / splice anything.

If the test proves - GOOD, then proceed with the tapped power source.
If it FAILS, then you will have to remove the tap and have a (pinhole) in the wire from the removed tap if you only just try the tap first.

You can very carefully insert a (Sewing - T-Pin) or Paperclip and slide it down the back of the connector so that it touches the contact pin (on the face of the connector) if you do not have a back probe. (Do not force it or chafe the wire when inserting)

Then use a (Alligator Clip) to hold the switch wiring to the (T-Pin or Paperclip) and perform the lighting test.

 

[Oingoboingoagogo]

You could use a wiretap like this.

The best thing to do would be to use a - Back Probe and slide down the wire with the connector connected and then tie in the lighted switch.
This would be for a TEST before you wiretap or splice into the wire.
As I mentioned, I am thinking you MAY NOT get the results you are seeking.

You state you have a separate power feed for the backlight.

Unknown Questions

1. Is it DIMMABLE without the light flickering or turning off? can the switch light handle a dimmed light?
I have a feeling it is not and if you reduce power (dim) the light may simply start flickering.

2. Will the Trucks, Backlighting circuit allow another light source on the circuit without causing issues? The flickering from above may cause the trucks circuit to do the same.

The extra draw on the circuit MAY trigger the FET (internal protection) of the circuit to shut the whole circuit off.

By Back Probing the circuit will allow you to TEST both of these unanswered questions before you tap / splice anything.

If the test proves - GOOD, then proceed with the tapped power source.
If it FAILS, then you will have to remove the tap and have a (pinhole) in the wire from the removed tap if you only just try the tap first.

You can very carefully insert a (Sewing - T-Pin) or Paperclip and slide it down the back of the connector so that it touches the contact pin (on the face of the connector) if you do not have a back probe. (Do not force it or chafe the wire when inserting)

Then use a (Alligator Clip) to hold the switch wiring to the (T-Pin or Paperclip) and perform the lighting test.

A million thanks to you for the detailed suggestions. Like you, I also prefer to test that things will work as expected before making any permanent changes. But I do not have a back probe, so I will find a similarly thin piece of metal and wire things up to test.

In other news: the Ooga V1 is complete and I can now Ooga all over town! Some parts aren’t so pretty but it does work.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I'll go against the grain, I hate wire taps. I'd rather spend the extra few minutes actually splicing the connection together, even if its a 2 to 1 splice.

I've been using these self soldering connectors for years now, pretty much exclusively in any 12v work I do.

 

[airline tech]

I'll go against the grain, I hate wire taps. I'd rather spend the extra few minutes actually splicing the connection together, even if its a 2 to 1 splice.

I've been using these self soldering connectors for years now, pretty much exclusively in any 12v work I do.

I would agree here, but since this is just a simple switch light and the unknown- of operation- dimmed.
I made the suggestion of the tap, did not want to see a cut wire for something that won’t work.
Now if this was exterior lighting or a high draw circuit - by far a solder splice - no question.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I would agree here, but since this is just a simple switch light and the unknown- of operation- dimmed.
I made the suggestion of the tap, did not want to see a cut wire for something that won’t work.
Now if this was exterior lighting or a high draw circuit - by far a solder splice - no question.

Well I take that back, I have used T-taps to verify if something works, then I actually go back and splice it. LOL

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