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450 RWHP 500 RWTQ

Superdannyboy

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What's up guys,
Anyone dyno'd with the following numbers?

I'd like to get somewhere around there.

Here's the list I'm thinking.

-Mishi Intake
-Intercooler + pipe upgrade
-catless or high-flow downpipe
-3" exhaust
-CR stage 4 turbo upgrade
-Custom tune

-injectors?
-fuel pump?

Would I need to go full e85 to have a chance? Is 93 octane and those rear wheel numbers unattainable? Ideally with 35's or 37's.

I think a coyote swap is pretty unreasonable with not just the price alone but all of the electronics, which if a shop did it would double the price or what not. If I could get 450-500 RWHP with the 2.3 that would be good enough. I do have a 25 gallon fuel cell in the bed that's not hooked up so maybe I could run an inline fuel pump if anyone has some experience there but then maybe I would need to upgrade injectors if I go that route?

Post your dynos and mods.

IMG_20230501_183727_824.jpg


-Dannyman
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9zero1790

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450 hp out of the 2.3 eb is not impossible. however at 138 cubic inches it would have to make over 3 hp per cubic inch just at the motor. ive seen some 2.3 eb rated at 350 and 375 hp (not at the wheels) so about 2.5 hp. Those are also pretty well worked over internally by groups like mercrusier, illmore etc. so they can take the abuse. the 2.3 we have is a beefed up 2.0. so its no sissy, but i would say ford didnt leave a lot of meat on the table for easy durable power. im no expert on the drive line loss of horsepower but id throw out a number like 10% just for grins. so with my 10% guess that would mean about 45 hp more than 450 hp to get the 450 hp at the tire, roughly 495 hp at the motor. so 500 hp for a nice number. so the engine would need to make approx 4 hp per cubic inch to get to that kind of hp. in my mind that says your not going to get any help at all from displacement and would have to throw everything but the kitchen sink at the motor in terms of boost, fuel, air etc. under those conditions i would not expect it to last long. it could end up being like a race motor, lots of power but short lifespan and not street driver reliable.
 

Dgc333

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FWIW, the Ecoboost Mustang folks have determined that the limit of the 2.3 block is at 400 RWHP. Going reliably beyond that requires using either a 2.0 block or and after market block.
 


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Superdannyboy

Superdannyboy

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FWIW, the Ecoboost Mustang folks have determined that the limit of the 2.3 block is at 400 RWHP. Going reliably beyond that requires using either a 2.0 block or and after market block.
That seems to be the case.

I think it would be simpler than a coyote swap. Even going full long block from mountain with performance pistons, rods, camshaft, crankshaft etc.

Does mountune make a plug and play for the ranger?
 

Rp930

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450 hp out of the 2.3 eb is not impossible. however at 138 cubic inches it would have to make over 3 hp per cubic inch just at the motor. ive seen some 2.3 eb rated at 350 and 375 hp (not at the wheels) so about 2.5 hp. Those are also pretty well worked over internally by groups like mercrusier, illmore etc. so they can take the abuse. the 2.3 we have is a beefed up 2.0. so its no sissy, but i would say ford didnt leave a lot of meat on the table for easy durable power. im no expert on the drive line loss of horsepower but id throw out a number like 10% just for grins. so with my 10% guess that would mean about 45 hp more than 450 hp to get the 450 hp at the tire, roughly 495 hp at the motor. so 500 hp for a nice number. so the engine would need to make approx 4 hp per cubic inch to get to that kind of hp. in my mind that says your not going to get any help at all from displacement and would have to throw everything but the kitchen sink at the motor in terms of boost, fuel, air etc. under those conditions i would not expect it to last long. it could end up being like a race motor, lots of power but short lifespan and not street driver reliable.
A well thought out response.
 

Loweredon33s

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Might be a stretch but it’s probably possible to get near those numbers. Definitely not a good idea to try doing on 35-37” tires. Simply going from stock tires to Nitto 33’s cost 20hp on the dyno with my truck.
 
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Superdannyboy

Superdannyboy

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Ideal situation is a closed deck and upgraded internals from mountune. That way all of the upgraded mods will bolt up like intercooler, stage 4 turbo, downpipe, etc.
I've never taken apart an engine and would rather buy something plug and play if the price is right.
 

Loweredon33s

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Ideal situation is a closed deck and upgraded internals from mountune. That way all of the upgraded mods will bolt up like intercooler, stage 4 turbo, downpipe, etc.
I've never taken apart an engine and would rather buy something plug and play if the price is right.
You can get a deck support added to your block for around $1k. Or have it sleeved instead which would be more reliable for a power level that high. I also would expect to need a much bigger turbo rather than using “upgraded stock”
The transmission driveshaft and rear will be showing their weaknesses as well.
 
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Superdannyboy

Superdannyboy

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You can get a deck support added to your block for around $1k. Or have it sleeved instead which would be more reliable for a power level that high. I also would expect to need a much bigger turbo rather than using “upgraded stock”
The transmission driveshaft and rear will be showing their weaknesses as well.
Thanks for the options there. Can you explain the deck support a little more?
 

Jhbryaniv

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How much hp and torque can the drive train on the ranger take?

How quick do we think the 10r80 will grenade when you throw this much power through it? I mean, stock they grenade... Ijs...
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