So i drove my 2019 straight to the dealership when had loss of power bogging and dash lighting up... seen its the tube sensor thing going to clutch fa

[Jay blas]

Will warranty cover? Or did I screw up driving here

Sponsored

 

[airline tech]

That is the stupid design of the clutch fan and is the common (if it fails result)
That little rubber hose is a anti rotating design for the sensor on the back of the clutch - note the wire harness for the sensor is clamped to the hose.
Clutch fails, sensor rotates breaking hose in half taking the wire harness with it, thus ripping wires apart.
Tripping all the dash warnings.

 

[RedDakooter05]

That is the stupid design of the clutch fan and is the common (if it fails result)
That little rubber hose is a anti rotating design for the sensor on the back of the clutch - note the wire harness for the sensor is clamped to the hose.
Clutch fails, sensor rotates breaking hose in half taking the wire harness with it, thus ripping wires apart.
Tripping all the dash warnings.

Is there a way to tell if it's going, or is it one of them it goes when it goes deal?

It's such a goofy ass design, not sure if there's any way to see signs of wear, or if it's a sudden failure point.

(Not having any issues myself, just curious)

 

[airline tech]

Is there a way to tell if it's going, or is it one of them it goes when it goes deal?

It's such a goofy ass design, not sure if there's any way to see signs of wear, or if it's a sudden failure point.

(Not having any issues myself, just curious)

Im not sure , but from all posts here for the fan clutch, it’s been the exact same result -ripped apart wire harness.

 

[Wang.S]

just need to put some pull apart connectors on the wires.

 

[TJC]

That is the stupid design of the clutch fan and is the common (if it fails result)
That little rubber hose is a anti rotating design for the sensor on the back of the clutch - note the wire harness for the sensor is clamped to the hose.
Clutch fails, sensor rotates breaking hose in half taking the wire harness with it, thus ripping wires apart.
Tripping all the dash warnings.

I am becoming more and more exasperated over Ford's (lack of) Engineering and Design skills.

This is another instance where a stupid design allows for a cascade of increasingly critical failures that can result in catastrophic engine failure! Just think about it. A fan clutch failure results in oil starvation of the engine? In what world would such a design be allowed in a mass production product???

I am running through the possible modifications needed to spare the wiring harness if the fan clutch fails. You would think Ford would have built a rigid wiring loom separate from the clutch brace (hose).

And why the hell do I need a speed sensor on my fan clutch? My 2005 Ranger mechanical fan clutch has performed flawlessly for 18 years now. And I am absolutely sure that my 2005 Ranger part costs far less than the $373.54 (discounted from $609.09) listed at Tasca Parts . com.

Sometimes Less is More.

 

[Frenchy]

I am becoming more and more exasperated over Ford's (lack of) Engineering and Design skills.

This is another instance where a stupid design allows for a cascade of increasingly critical failures that can result in catastrophic engine failure! Just think about it. A fan clutch failure results in oil starvation of the engine? In what world would such a design be allowed in a mass production product???

I am running through the possible modifications needed to spare the wiring harness if the fan clutch fails. You would think Ford would have built a rigid wiring loom separate from the clutch brace (hose).

And why the hell do I need a speed sensor on my fan clutch? My 2005 Ranger mechanical fan clutch has performed flawlessly for 18 years now. And I am absolutely sure that my 2005 Ranger part costs far less than the $373.54 (discounted from $609.09) listed at Tasca Parts . com.

Sometimes Less is More.

You must have forgotten what manufacturer you are dealing with!! This is Ford where we do things differently because the way everyone else does things is too hard!!

Another better idea by Ford!!

That said many manufacturers do the same thing for the Electric Fan Clutch

 

[Racket]

First time I've heard of this type of failure, now I'll have to go poke my head in there to see what it could take to fix if it comes to it (yay extended warranty) or if some preventative action (mod?) might help.

 

[RedDakooter05]

First time I've heard of this type of failure, now I'll have to go poke my head in there to see what it could take to fix if it comes to it (yay extended warranty) or if some preventative action (mod?) might help.

I did an e fan mod to my dodge dajota.
Not sure if it would be worth the effort.


Maybe a non locking connector swap.

 

[airline tech]

The connector to the Clutch Fan has this Pinout:
Pin #1 - Power Feed from Fuse 12 (BJB)
This fused circuit also powers:
1. Cabin Heater (Coolant Pump)
2. Trans Fluid Heater Coolant Cont Valve
3. Turbo-Charger By-Pass Valve
4. Variable Oil Pump (Oil Press Cont Solenoid Valve)


Generically, this design operates as follows:

• Maximum oil pump displacement has been selected to provide adequate volume to insure required pressure at both hot idle and maximum speed.
• An internal relief valve protects the system from excessive pressure during high viscosity conditions. When activated, it vents bypassed oil back to the oil pan.
• In conditions other than hot idle and maximum speed, system flow and pressure are controlled with a solenoid valve, receiving commands from the powertrain control module (PCM), to deliver correct oil pressure for all operation conditions based on engine speed, load, and oil temperature.
• The solenoid valve regulates oil pump performance by controlling oil pressure in the internal control chamber of the oil pump.

So, with a damaged circuit and possible blown fuse, this explains why you see messages and codes related to Oil Pressure.
The pump is still working mechanically.

Now the connector and harness also have a VREF circuit, that ties into the Crank Sensor and Exhaust Pressure sensor. So, codes will most likely be generated for those as well.

 

[airline tech]

Will warranty cover? Or did I screw up driving here

Please have dealer explain why the clutch fan , fails this way and post the reason.
I am trying to understand how a free floating- electric control part gets locked to the clutch part and rips the harness.
There are not any descriptions on how the internals of this part works on that aspect.

 

[TJC]

The connector to the Clutch Fan has this Pinout:
Pin #1 - Power Feed from Fuse 12 (BJB)
This fused circuit also powers:
1. Cabin Heater (Coolant Pump)
2. Trans Fluid Heater Coolant Cont Valve
3. Turbo-Charger By-Pass Valve
4. Variable Oil Pump (Oil Press Cont Solenoid Valve)


Generically, this design operates as follows:

• Maximum oil pump displacement has been selected to provide adequate volume to insure required pressure at both hot idle and maximum speed.
• An internal relief valve protects the system from excessive pressure during high viscosity conditions. When activated, it vents bypassed oil back to the oil pan.
• In conditions other than hot idle and maximum speed, system flow and pressure are controlled with a solenoid valve, receiving commands from the powertrain control module (PCM), to deliver correct oil pressure for all operation conditions based on engine speed, load, and oil temperature.
• The solenoid valve regulates oil pump performance by controlling oil pressure in the internal control chamber of the oil pump.

So, with a damaged circuit and possible blown fuse, this explains why you see messages and codes related to Oil Pressure.
The pump is still working mechanically.

Now the connector and harness also have a VREF circuit, that ties into the Crank Sensor and Exhaust Pressure sensor. So, codes will most likely be generated for those as well.

The fuse circuit has a minimum of 4 points of failure, and each one adversely affects all 4 systems. There appears to be no redundancy. Several questions come to mind...

1 - Do each of these systems fail gracefully when power is lost to the circuit?

• Cabin Heater (Coolant Pump)
• Trans Fluid Heater Coolant Cont Valve
• Turbo-Charger By-Pass Valve
• Variable Oil Pump (Oil Press Cont Solenoid Valve)

2 - Is the internal pressure relief valve mechanical (pressure spring)

 

[Jay blas]

Thanks really appreciate, so if warranty doesn't cover change out tube and check that fuse.... got location of that fuse bro?

 

[9zero1790]

knowing ford its not graceful. more like

 

[airline tech]

Thanks really appreciate, so if warranty doesn't cover change out tube and check that fuse.... got location of that fuse bro?

By your thread post - Title
This is what you are referring - correct?

From my understanding thus far on this Clutch Fan is:
The black part on the back side is the electric module for this, it can rotate side to side, that is the purpose of the rubber hose (to minimize movement) (Anti-Rotation)
Notice the hose goes nowhere, it also is used to secure the wire harness to keep it from flexing into the fan blades.

Now if the failure was extreme and noted on this site when the Fan Clutch fails the Electric Module rotates around with enough force to break the rubber hose in half and rips the wire harness with it.

Now this is where I am wanting to learn exactly what is happening internally with the Clutch, as the above failure is described.
As I want to understand how it is internally operated to understand why at failure (extreme force is applied to the electric module.

The cause may only be the hose itself wearing down and breaking, but still a force is being applied strong enough to rip the wire harness apart.

Either way the design does not make sense to me, failed part ripping wire harness apart, and also tying into other circuits for power.

Power comes from Fuse #12 in the BJB (Engine Bay) FYI

Now for your fix:
If it is extreme, then replace the Fan Clutch, Repair Wire Harness and if blown Replace Fuse.

Not a bad job to do, fairly easy. You will need a Fan Clutch Tool though, Autopart stores with tool rental have them, then reset all DTC's with Forscan.

The Fan Clutch and Tube / Hose come as an assembly, now if you just have a broken hose then it may be possible to just replace that, but another poster on here said he could not find one (Ford) that hose is molded and rigid I believe.
The Fan Clutch is about $375.00.

Sponsored