new tire/wheel combo and now vibration

[Muffin1]

Hi Rob,

Certainly a candidate for consideration for the cause of your vibration....

Best,
Phil

You know I just put the wheel back on and thought if its not sitting on the hub and only on the studs I should be able to with my breaker bar under the tire move it on/off by going up down from the center of the studs a bit (1/4”) which it did move, so by using the rust marks outlined on the hub from where the factory rim sat against the hub I lined that up with the back facing outline or relief of the new wheel while getting a lug on the bottom stud so it wouldn’t drop then while holding it steady got a second one on snug which after it didn’t move then TQ’d the rest, don’t know if that’s going to change anything will go hit the highway later and see, if not then I’ll look for the rings.
thanks all.
Rob.

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[P. A. Schilke]

You know I just put the wheel back on and thought if its not sitting on the hub and only on the studs I should be able to with my breaker bar under the tire move it on/off by going up down from the center of the studs a bit (1/4”) which it did move, so by using the rust marks outlined on the hub from where the factory rim sat against the hub I lined that up with the back facing outline or relief of the new wheel while getting a lug on the bottom stud so it wouldn’t drop then while holding it steady got a second one on snug which after it didn’t move then TQ’d the rest, don’t know if that’s going to change anything will go hit the highway later and see, if not then I’ll look for the rings.
thanks all.
Rob.

Hi Rob,

Good Luck with your test! Interested in hearing the results...

Best,
Phil

 

[Fawnbuster]

Where did you purchase the rings? Thanks.

Matt @Discount Tire, he will take good care of you.

 

[Muffin1]

Matt @Discount Tire, he will take good care of you.

Thanks for the link, since I purchased thru TR I called them for support today and explained the issue, the rep is going to get back to me on Monday with the info & part #'s for the rings from their Hardware Dept (There closed today).
He was knowledgeable so I'm guessing they have had this phone call before from others.

 

[Muffin1]

I spoke with TR today the rep was great answering my questions and concerns, but unfortunately they do not have the centric rings i would need, he felt that since I'm running the stock tire size and if i properly TQ the lugs in a star pattern with the wheel off the ground the lugs would center the wheels correctly onto the studs. I was able to get some specs from him about the wheel and it has a 100 mm center bore and from my measurement the axle hub is 90 mm,( although i was using a plastic caliper tool so my #'s may be off accuracy)
I searched for 90mm to 100mm rings and can't seem to find that combo.
Tomorrow I'm going to reach out to Matt at Discount tire as member 'fawnbuster' recommended.
So I redid all of them and have a road trip coming up and see if the vibration is still present.
On another note while i had the wheels off i looked at the weights on the wheels one had a lot more stick on weights than the other three not sure if that wheel is the culprit; all 1/4 OZ
Wheel 1- 6, 1/4oz weights outer. 7, 1/4 oz inner.
Wheel 2- 6 outer 1 inner
Wheel 3- 4 outer 4 inner
Wheel4- 4 outer 0 inner

 

[gwhalin]

Ranger hub is 93.1 mm. Quick google search shows lot of options for 93.1 to 100 rings.

 

[Muffin1]

Ranger hub is 93.1 mm.

ok thanks, my caliper was showing around 90 so there's the inaccuracy on that, lol.

Quick search found these;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hub-Centric-Rings-OD-100-1-mm-ID-93-1-mm-Aluminium-Alloy-/173608533003
These are better i had a Coyote motor in my F150 haha;
https://www.coyoteaccessories.com/new-product/newproduct-hubrings/100-9310

 

[Utah_Bound]

You can get them from Amazon in almost any size combo. Including a 93.1 to 100. And that difference can absolutely cause a vibration.

edit: you may need to find a better tool. You don’t want to be off with your hubcentric rings. Needs to be down to the exact mm. If it helps, years ago when I get into the wheel world, I had the same issue.. I purchased a caliper on Amazon for $15, got it in the mail, measured and ordered rings (metal) and after I installed them, all vibrations were gone. Also, plastic rings are garbage. Buy the metal ones.

 

[gwhalin]

ok thanks, my caliper was showing around 90 so there's the inaccuracy on that, lol.

Quick search found these;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hub-Centric-Rings-OD-100-1-mm-ID-93-1-mm-Aluminium-Alloy-/173608533003

For what it’s worth though, I tighten my lugs the way the TR guy told you even with rings. Wheel off ground, star pattern and gradual torque increase. The lugs are ultimately what hold the wheel. Maybe overkill but doesn’t take me much more time.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I spoke with TR today the rep was great answering my questions and concerns, but unfortunately they do not have the centric rings i would need, he felt that since I'm running the stock tire size and if i properly TQ the lugs in a star pattern with the wheel off the ground the lugs would center the wheels correctly onto the studs. I was able to get some specs from him about the wheel and it has a 100 mm center bore and from my measurement the axle hub is 90 mm,( although i was using a plastic caliper tool so my #'s may be off accuracy)
I searched for 90mm to 100mm rings and can't seem to find that combo.
Tomorrow I'm going to reach out to Matt at Discount tire as member 'fawnbuster' recommended.
So I redid all of them and have a road trip coming up and see if the vibration is still present.
On another note while i had the wheels off i looked at the weights on the wheels one had a lot more stick on weights than the other three not sure if that wheel is the culprit; all 1/4 OZ
Wheel 1- 6, 1/4oz weights outer. 7, 1/4 oz inner.
Wheel 2- 6 outer 1 inner
Wheel 3- 4 outer 4 inner
Wheel4- 4 outer 0 inner

Hi Rob,

I am amazed at the balance weights needed... I suspect the wheel/tire balance machine is in need of calibration, repair... Do not know but hopefully Discount Tire can address the issue... You cannot depend on wheel lug torque in a star pattern to do anything but center the wheel on the lugs...Ranger is hub centric to allow the lugnuts to retain the wheel, not center the wheel... At Ford we deal with ounce/inches and your ounce/inches indicate very poor tires or wheels... Unlikely so I fault the Tire Rack balance machine... JMO...

First step if TR cannot or will not rebalance is to get then to put 4 brand new tire on the rims.

Get hub centric rings based on specifications, not your plastic "venereal" calipers...

best,
Phil

 

[Muffin1]

Hey thanks all i knew the plastic one wasn't going to be truly accurate but i was just trying to get a starting point on the two differences (hub)and (center bore) i wasn't going to purchase anything based off that caliper, and yes i did see one on Amazon time to upgrade lol.

 

[Muffin1]

Hi Rob,

I am amazed at the balance weights needed... I suspect the wheel/tire balance machine is in need of calibration, repair... Do not know but hopefully Discount Tire can address the issue... You cannot depend on wheel lug torque in a star pattern to do anything but center the wheel on the lugs...Ranger is hub centric to allow the lugnuts to retain the wheel, not center the wheel... At Ford we deal with ounce/inches and your ounce/inches indicate very poor tires or wheels... Unlikely so I fault the Tire Rack balance machine... JMO...

First step if TR cannot or will not rebalance is to get then to put 4 brand new tire on the rims.

Get hub centric rings based on specifications, not your plastic "venereal" calipers...

best,
Phil

I'm going to talk to TR about rebalancing that wheel at a authorized TR dealer in my local area and request they cover that cost or replace it.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I'm going to talk to TR about rebalancing that wheel at a authorized TR dealer in my local area and request they cover that cost or replace it.

Hi Rob,

A good step one to your ultimate solution.

Best,
Phil

 

[thndr8]

While you're in there, clean the rust off those hubs. I usually buy brass wire wheels for my drill and clean every mating surface to prevent imperfections every tire rotation. I use brass because it removes the corrosion and not the paint so much. If you use a stainless wire wheel, it will remove everything to bare metal causing a bigger corrosion problem. Ever see a wheel get stuck on a rotor? If the corrosion is bad enough, I just take off the rotors, sand them down, and repaint the hats. I always hear problems with people using spacers. If the mounting surfaces aren't clean and true, it'll always vibrate and spacers accentuate the problem.

 

[Muffin1]

While you're in there, clean the rust off those hubs. I usually buy brass wire wheels for my drill and clean every mating surface to prevent imperfections every tire rotation. I use brass because it removes the corrosion and not the paint so much. If you use a stainless wire wheel, it will remove everything to bare metal causing a bigger corrosion problem. Ever see a wheel get stuck on a rotor? If the corrosion is bad enough, I just take off the rotors, sand them down, and repaint the hats. I always hear problems with people using spacers. If the mounting surfaces aren't clean and true, it'll always vibrate and spacers accentuate the problem.

Yes i was thinking about that, will do for sure, paint them or maybe a coating of anti-seize like PB blaster? to prevent the rust coming back.

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