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new tire/wheel combo and now vibration

Muffin1

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So installed my setup from Tire Rack a couple days ago and today did a 180 mile road trip and almost immediately upon hitting 62 mph (approx) and up thru around 80mph a noticeable and annoying vibration that was not present before the changes, the steering wheel is not shimming it tracks straight but the vibration can be felt throughout the cab, seats, and my Dunkin ice coffee was getting a mix (i could see it through the clear plastic cup) lol.
TR included Hunters 'Road Force' balance so I'm a bit surprised I'm having a issue, anyone with experience in changing out tire/wheel combos have any thoughts?
I'm going to contact them tomm.
TIA,
Rob.
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NotBudule

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Sounds like the bad guy is on the back if the wheel feels good , still have the old ones ? If same size you could switch them out till you find it...
 

P. A. Schilke

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So installed my setup from Tire Rack a couple days ago and today did a 180 mile road trip and almost immediately upon hitting 62 mph (approx) and up thru around 80mph a noticeable and annoying vibration that was not present before the changes, the steering wheel is not shimming it tracks straight but the vibration can be felt throughout the cab, seats, and my Dunkin ice coffee was getting a mix (i could see it through the clear plastic cup) lol.
TR included Hunters 'Road Force' balance so I'm a bit surprised I'm having a issue, anyone with experience in changing out tire/wheel combos have any thoughts?
I'm going to contact them tomm.
TIA,
Rob.
Hi Rob,

This song plays time and time again. Many threads that lead to these vibration concerns with new tires or wheels or both. When it comes from a change that was not there before the change, then the change is suspect...So lets look at it. Two major changes....Wheels and also tires... So which one is suspect or is it a synergistic combination? Are your wheels Hubcentric? If not this may be your issue and is not helped by force balance. Was the force balance done correctly? Don't know. I am certain you will get this resolved but it will likely be trial and error to some degree. Your best bet is to work with Tire Rack in a positive manor. You are not the first customer they have had with this issue and likely their experience will lead to resolution.

Good Luck!
Phil
 
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Muffin1

Muffin1

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Sounds like the bad guy is on the back if the wheel feels good , still have the old ones ? If same size you could switch them out till you find it...
yea i do have the original factory tires/wheels with only 8,500 miles plan to use them as winter setup since they are the A/T type tread and the new ones are more H/T.
Same size i didn't go up but tread pattern & brand are different not savvy as to if that would make a difference on the process of elimination test you suggest.
Thanks for the good idea might be a better option to find the bad one then spend a couple hours at a tire shop.
 
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Muffin1

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Hi Rob,

This song plays time and time again. Many threads that lead to these vibration concerns with new tires or wheels or both. When it comes from a change that was not there before the change, then the change is suspect...So lets look at it. Two major changes....Wheels and also tires... So which one is suspect or is it a synergistic combination? Are your wheels Hubcentric? If not this may be your issue and is not helped by force balance. Was the force balance done correctly? Don't know. I am certain you will get this resolved but it will likely be trial and error to some degree. Your best bet is to work with Tire Rack in a positive manor. You are not the first customer they have had with this issue and likely their experience will lead to resolution.

Good Luck!
Phil
Thanks for the help Phil, to your point about the rims i don't believe they are hubcentric, (if that where the rim sits or hangs on a ring on the hub, these rims are not that, they are offset @ 25mm so stick out 1''and a 1/8 over the 55mm factory . I TQ'd to 100 per spec using the star pattern so i am confident on my end. I will consult with TR and see what happens.
 


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So assuming that you did not make any changes to the suspension during the tire and wheel swap I would agree that either the wheel is not hub centric or the tire was not balanced well(both are good possibilities). A simple che k is remove a tire and see if you have a plastic ring between the wheel and tire. If not and the wheel can move up and down easily then that is you problem. If not moving and/or has the plastic ring then the tire is most likely not balanced corretly.
 

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Thanks for the help Phil, to your point about the rims i don't believe they are hubcentric, (if that where the rim sits or hangs on a ring on the hub, these rims are not that, they are offset @ 25mm so stick out 1''and a 1/8 over the 55mm factory . I TQ'd to 100 per spec using the star pattern so i am confident on my end. I will consult with TR and see what happens.
Get yourself some hub centric rings and try remounting those wheels. I also recommend tightening your lugs little at a time in star pattern while off the ground.
 
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Muffin1

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I will do that tomm and take a pic of the back of the rim, also i made no changes to suspension. Thanks Frenchy, gwhalin.
 
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JasonTremor

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Did the wheel studs have any of those sheet metal clips that hold the brake rotors on during assembly? I've seen people buy aftermarket wheels that didn't have reliefs machined in the wheel to clear those. Resulted in vibration at speed because wheel wasn't flush against the rotor/hub flange. Generally have to remove those clips if they are present for aftermarket wheels. Its just an armchair quarterback idea worth checking.
 

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Did the wheel studs have any of those sheet metal clips that hold the brake rotors on during assembly? I've seen people buy aftermarket wheels that didn't have reliefs machined in the wheel to clear those. Resulted in vibration at speed because wheel wasn't flush against the rotor/hub flange. Generally have to remove those clips if they are present for aftermarket wheels. Its just an armchair quarterback idea worth checking.
If I remember correctly the Ranger doesnt have those. I think GM was the big one to do that. Not sure about other manufacturers
 
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Muffin1

Muffin1

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Did the wheel studs have any of those sheet metal clips that hold the brake rotors on during assembly? I've seen people buy aftermarket wheels that didn't have reliefs machined in the wheel to clear those. Resulted in vibration at speed because wheel wasn't flush against the rotor/hub flange. Generally have to remove those clips if they are present for aftermarket wheels. Its just an armchair quarterback idea worth checking.
I don't remember seeing those but i will check when i pull a wheel.
 

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I installed hub centric rings and had them road force balanced (bigger tires and wheels) and completely took care of ALL vibration.
 
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Muffin1

Muffin1

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Thanks all for the reply & suggestions, so I pulled a rear tire took measurements of axle hub and wheel hub and this is what they are; looks to be 96mm on wheel, axle hub 90mm so the diff in inches is about a 1/4 inch. Enough to cause a issue??

FEFBFADA-D516-4AE8-A3C8-0C048593AB3E.jpeg


158377D5-E7FB-4938-BF39-0445C732D8A0.jpeg
 
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Muffin1

Muffin1

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I installed hub centric rings and had them road force balanced (bigger tires and wheels) and completely took care of ALL vibration.
Where did you purchase the rings? Thanks.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Thanks all for the reply & suggestions, so I pulled a rear tire took measurements of axle hub and wheel hub and this is what they are; looks to be 96mm on wheel, axle hub 90mm so the diff in inches is about a 1/4 inch. Enough to cause a issue??

FEFBFADA-D516-4AE8-A3C8-0C048593AB3E.jpeg


158377D5-E7FB-4938-BF39-0445C732D8A0.jpeg
Hi Rob,

Certainly a candidate for consideration for the cause of your vibration....

Best,
Phil
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