Roof rack extending over bed

[BigWuWu]

Hi all,

I am trying to figure if there is a any kind of rack that extends off the roof a little over the bed. I would like to put a cargo box on the roof and a 8 'retractable awning. I put my dirt bikes in the bed so I can only have one tower in the front of the bed about 1.5 feet back.

I was thinking something like this system from thule but with only the front tower and then towers on the roof. I would like to buy an integrated system from one company if possible to make sure the heights match and its all level.

Does anyone know of a system that might work?

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[DukeCanBuildit]

Are you thinking of attaching the awning to both the roof rack and the single tower on the bed?

 

[BigWuWu]

Are you thinking of attaching the awning to both the roof rack and the single tower on the bed?

Yep

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Yep

The bed and cab are independent of each other and there is flex between the two. You’re likely to damage your roof and bed rails where the legs attach, while bending your awning.

 

[slowmachine]

There are some basket-type cargo racks for the roof that might hang over the rear of the cab a little bit. They wouldn’t attach to the bed.

 

[BigWuWu]

The bed and cab are independent of each other and there is flex between the two. You’re likely to damage your roof and bed rails where the legs attach, while bending your awning.

Oh I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

There are some basket-type cargo racks for the roof that might hang over the rear of the cab a little bit. They wouldn’t attach to the bed.

Oh I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info.

Like Mike says, a basket-style rack could be mounted to the cab. You could also opt for a platform-style roof rack mounted to the cab. Either of these could be long enough to extend a little beyond the roof of the cab.

You need to be mindful of two things:

1. How far back you go and how much weight you put on the part that is cantilevered out back.
2. How low/high the rack is - you may need to swap out your factory antenna for a stubby version.

Good Luck.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

You need to chat with @OFC Ranger

He has a very nice system that extends over the cab.

 

[OFC Ranger]

@BigWuWu

My rack is a no weld single length design (10 feet) that connects to an RCI 18" cab height bed rack.

Current version uses heavy duty adjustable rubber feet (2 sets per side) in the gutters. Since my sub frame is aluminum (light weight) this was done to prevent "bounce" of the forward unsupport portion. The feet are adjusted just enough to place slight pressure on the gutters to take out any movement on the unsupported portion over the cab. However since it is not connected to the roof, if I encounter a movement that would cause flex between the bed and the cab it will still allow the aluminum to "bend/flex" to prevent stress failures.

Also the sub-frame connects to the RCI bed rack in a way that it is hoisted up by one inch using 2" wide x 1 " tall industrial grade rubber spacers. Carriage bolts are run though the middle of these to connect the top rack to the truck rack. This component / design also allows for minor flex as needed.

My rack can take humans walking on it no problem. I also use it as a prone shooting platform if I take my storage off the top.

New version currently being developed, at the slight cost of a little more weight, will have the sub frame be completely free-floated.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[OFC Ranger]

The new version has the sub-frame built from 12 gauge unistrut and will eliminate the need for the roof support feet as well as the rubber rack spacers.

Disregard the sectional cuts of the unistrut components in the photos, this is done strictly in the design software for ease of use in manipulation.

Given a moment to work on it, my design could more than likely easily be adapted to any company's bed racking system as it just sits on top of it and is securely connected. Your problem to solve is if you have the bikes in your bed, would a full length rack system look bizarre with the extra height? Best I can think of off the top of my head is a one piece system that has two levels of height (front and rear). Could probably utilize a wind fairing where the rear rises higher to help with aerodynamics.

If you want, get me the measurement from the top point on your bikes to the top of the bed rails. Depending on the height a flat system like mine might work. On my truck I have to use some trickery to raise the platform a little due to the apex of the roof (higher in middle then on the front or back). As long as your bikes apex height is lower than the apex of the ranger cab roof, then this is a problem easily overcome without having to delve into multi-level platform systems.

 

[BigWuWu]

So I need the rack open the back to give me room to load the bikes. But your design with the rubber gaskets and feet gave me an idea. If I use towers on the cab and a single tower in the bed. I could maybe design something to allow the rear attachment of the awning to float some.

The bed part of the rack really doesn't need to support much weight, might not even need to go across the bed. I just don't want the cantilevered end of the awning to be bouncing all over the place. I would just keep the main cargo box solely on the cab rack.

 

[khyros]

So, not to discount what anyone is saying about box/cab flex... but didn't Ford do a demonstration on that back when the Ranger first launched? I have strong memories of them doing a ditch twist with the Ranger and with a Tacoma, showing how the taco's twisted a good 1'', and the Ranger was minimal.

And with 5min of googling... here is a video of the event I am referring to (though not the Ford produced one I was looking for).. and )

So yes, it's twisting, is it enough to be concerned about? That's probably up to you and your drive style and your risk level. I might also recommend clamping the awning over a 1/8'' rubber strip instead of directly onto the crossbar. That would provide some level of flex to absorb those twists.

 

[slowmachine]

So, not to discount what anyone is saying about box/cab flex... but didn't Ford do a demonstration on that back when the Ranger first launched? I have strong memories of them doing a ditch twist with the Ranger and with a Tacoma, showing how the taco's twisted a good 1'', and the Ranger was minimal.

And with 5min of googling... here is a video of the event I am referring to (though not the Ford produced one I was looking for).. and )

So yes, it's twisting, is it enough to be concerned about? That's probably up to you and your drive style and your risk level. I might also recommend clamping the awning over a 1/8'' rubber strip instead of directly onto the crossbar. That would provide some level of flex to absorb those twists.

i suspect that any twisting at all, however minimal, would be enough to rip the fasteners out of the sheet metal, be it cab, bed, or both, if they are rigidly attached. The weakest point will fail, and that’s likely to be the cab roof.

 

[BigWuWu]

I might also recommend clamping the awning over a 1/8'' rubber strip instead of directly onto the crossbar. That would provide some level of flex to absorb those twists.

After reading about the build someone else posted early I was thinking I would mount the awning with thick rubber bushings.

Thanks for finding that video. I was just going to post if anyone had a feel for what the expected displacement might be.

 

[BigWuWu]

i suspect that any twisting stall, however minimal, would be enough to rip the fasteners out of the sheet metal, bet it cab, bed, or both, if they are rigidly attached. The weakest point will fail, and that’s likely to be the cab roof.

I am super nervous about drilling and attaching to the cab roof. I am thinking I am going to stick to the window clamp style for now like these.

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