What did you do to your Ranger today?

litalien26

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A little support for my brothers and sisters ?
20210407_155105.jpg
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tentspast

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Factory tow hooks on front are not for show. They work fine, hauled a Jeep out of the ditch using straps and hooks. 4L and some juice and out of the hole it came!
I think he was talking about the d-shackles hanging from those points on the Hamer bumper. They aren't rated, but the chassis mounted ones down below are.

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port43

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port43

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This would be a good chance to just toss a Molotov cocktail of 93 octane in the cab and watch, better than the frustration of screwing it all up because you "touched" something with the computer...then again, there's always a "simple" wiring job that can be done... :crackup:

My only advice is to not mess with any of the As-Builts, but that's just me. The latest beta build is easy to work with, back ups? yeah or no, your call on the hi-wire act...but, you'll have fun!!:thumbsup::turkey:
PpPpPpPp warnings. ;)
 

OrangeStreak

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I adjusted my hood latch today. After installing the Bugflector II, the hood took too much force to close because of the gap increase created by the Bugflector base attached underneath the hood. Followed this excellent video for the process: How To Adjust Hood Latch Height: 2019-2020 Ford Ranger 5th Generation - YouTube I make the mistake of not paying close attention in the video about detaching the plastic fasteners. Broke one of them when removing it by trying to pry out the fastener from the bottom which sits on the metal instead of properly prying the push pin insert out 1st and then pulling out the remaining base portion…lesson learned.

Kudos to RANGER PRIDE who assisted by sending some helpful info: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/atta...allation-radiator-grille-shop-manu-pdf.80041/

I discovered that removing the shroud on my 2020 is different than in the Adjust hood latch height Video (link above) demonstrated on the 2019 Ranger (not sure if it is the configuration of my grill or if on the 2020’s, the removal process has changed). I watched the following Video which showed how to remove the shroud on my year of Ranger: 2020 Ford Ranger Raptor Grille Install - YouTube I tried this Video’s method of pulling the shroud up by hand but felt that something would break if I used any more pressure. A Ford mechanic at my dealership showed me how to put a flathead screwdriver under the front leading edge of the shroud and pry up from place to place causing it to pop loose. Also, he said it is crucial to mark the outline of the existing position of the hood latch mount before you loosen the screws to establish a reference point to work from. I used an extra fine Sharpie marker to do this. I intended to take a photo of the area that I marked out but finished the job and then remembered after the fact.

I moved the latch mount straight up all the way from its original existing position as far as it would go and this made my hood latch and close exactly right. Had a lot of fun doing this project and feel good about the outcome :clap:



Broken fastener 3.jpg


Broken fastener 4.jpg
 
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port43

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I have one of these and it always seems to work for me.
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OFC Ranger

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Edit (Problem Solved): My "all on" circuit was backfeeding all others (on the aux connection side) even when the switch was not engaged. So I can get everything else working fine by disconnecting all ten of those lines until my diodes come in.

Well my feniex 4200 mini is not working properly. All buttons light all lights. I am guessing I am going to need diodes to prevent backfeeding juice to everything. What a bummer.

Any electronic wizards here? Here is the picture again of my junction as well as a picture of the general idea on how they are suppose to function. (in my case purple = white, but white wouldn't show up on white background. also black is brown (all on floods on) and red is reverse (grey). I simply didn't have those colored wires.)

What absolutely blows is basically since Radio Shack went out of business no one local has diodes. I'll have to wait till saturday for an Amazon deliverly
:(




IMG_20210407_065113 (1).jpg


feniex_mapping.jpg
 
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port43

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Well my feniex 4200 mini is not working properly. All buttons light all lights. I am guessing I am going to need diodes to prevent backfeeding juice to everything. What a bummer.

Any electronic wizards here? Here is the picture again of my junction as well as a picture of the general idea on how they are suppose to function. (in my case purple = white, but white wouldn't show up on white background. also black is brown (all on floods on) and red is reverse (grey). I simply didn't have those colored wires.)

What absolutely blows is basically since Radio Shack went out of business no one local has diodes. I'll have to wait till saturday for an Amazon deliverly :(


IMG_20210407_065113 (1).jpg


feniex_mapping.jpg


View attachment 80222

View attachment 80223
Hello @micl9 ?
 

OrangeStreak

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I have one of these and it always seems to work for me.
1617848401896.png
Thanks for the advice. The video said that these work great so I ordered this set from Amazon which will be arriving tomorrow: GOOACC 5PCS Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit No-Scratch Pry Tool Kit for Car Door Clip Panel & Audio Dashboard Dismantle -5PCS After I figured out what I was doing wrong on the 1st fastener, I took a long narrow flathead screw driver and used it carefully. Surprisingly, the rest of the fasteners came out easily and smoothly.
 

port43

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These are great and work well.

Thanks for your advice. According to the Video these tools work great and I ordered this set from Amazon which will arrive tomorrow: AmazonSmile: GOOACC 5PCS Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit No-Scratch Pry Tool Kit for Car Door Clip Panel & Audio Dashboard Dismantle -5PCS: Automotive
After I figured out what I was doing wrong in removing the 1st fastener, I used a long narrow flathead screwdriver carefully and surprisingly the remaining fasteners came out easily and smoothly.

Thanks for the advice. The video said that these work great so I ordered this set from Amazon which will be arriving tomorrow: GOOACC 5PCS Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit No-Scratch Pry Tool Kit for Car Door Clip Panel & Audio Dashboard Dismantle -5PCS After I figured out what I was doing wrong on the 1st fastener, I took a long narrow flathead screw driver and used it carefully. Surprisingly, the rest of the fasteners came out easily and smoothly.
I have screwed up so many of those things with a flat head screw driver. just be sure that if its a two piece you pry on the right part. From your initial picture, you tried the base instead of the insert and that messes them up. Know what I mean? There is a collar that goes into the hole and then an insert that causes it to swell when pushed in. You want to make sure you are pulling the insert.
 

OrangeStreak

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I have screwed up so many of those things with a flat head screw driver. just be sure that if its a two piece you pry on the right part. From your initial picture, you tried the base instead of the insert and that messes them up. Know what I mean? There is a collar that goes into the hole and then an insert that causes it to swell when pushed in. You want to make sure you are pulling the insert.
Yep, I realized how the two part push pin fastener worked after I broke it. Again, my mistake was not following the Video's instructions carefully on how to remove these fasteners. Will have the tools from Amazon to do any future jobs.
 

micl9

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Edit (Problem Solved): My "all on" circuit was backfeeding all others (on the aux connection side) even when the switch was not engaged. So I can get everything else working fine by disconnecting all ten of those lines until my diodes come in.

Well my feniex 4200 mini is not working properly. All buttons light all lights. I am guessing I am going to need diodes to prevent backfeeding juice to everything. What a bummer.

Any electronic wizards here? Here is the picture again of my junction as well as a picture of the general idea on how they are suppose to function. (in my case purple = white, but white wouldn't show up on white background. also black is brown (all on floods on) and red is reverse (grey). I simply didn't have those colored wires.)

What absolutely blows is basically since Radio Shack went out of business no one local has diodes. I'll have to wait till saturday for an Amazon deliverly
:(




IMG_20210407_065113 (1).jpg


feniex_mapping.jpg
WOW what is that gadget!? Nice work though!
Yeah current flowing backwards is always an issue in car wiring, but sounds like you got it figured out.
And yeah Rat Shack closing really sucked for stuff like this! Amazon is OK, but caps and resistors are not always available 2nd day.
 

OFC Ranger

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WOW what is that gadget!? Nice work though!
Yeah current flowing backwards is always an issue in car wiring, but sounds like you got it figured out.
And yeah Rat Shack closing really sucked for stuff like this! Amazon is OK, but caps and resistors are not always available 2nd day.
Controls 10 perimeter lights, (yellow) all right, (blue) all left, (black) all on, rears (red) and a 2 channel strobe (green & white).

Turns out my green and white circuits were back feeding too because they are setup in a way to alternative between lights on all sides of the rack. That means they crossed channels like the all on circuit wiring. So until my diodes come in and I get another set of days off to finish the wiring I will only have all right, all left, and reverse operational.

Edit: Sorry I misunderstood, to answer your question it is a Feniex 4200 Mini controller. I got one from my work for free because a car was being re-equipped with something different. You can get them brand new on Amazon for about $110 I think.
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