Broken front lower strut stud(?)

[IngotTexasRanger]

Hey y'all,

I ran into a little issue today while installing my leveling kit. My torque wrench managed to malfunction and didn't click on the very last bolt which managed to snap it right in half. I'm not sure if I'm calling it by the right name but it would be one of the 2 long 18mm studs that go through the lower control arm, and my google searches pull up nothing and ford's parts website is no help either. I have attached a picture of the stud and (yes it is not the OEM assembly but its as close as I could find quickly on google) a picture of the part I would be referring to. Would anyone happen to know the part number or generic/universal size for that specific stud, and perhaps if it could be ordered from oreilly or other parts store? Sorry for the lack of good information as I am just throwing this out there before I go to sleep, very tired from this late night install nightmare.

Thanks a bunch.

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[SOHK_Alumni]

With a hammer and punch, you should be able to knock out the broken stud from under the control arm and order up a generic 8.8 or 10.8 12mm nut and bolt.

In a pinch, a 7/16 grade 5 or 8 will work as well.

Local hardware store will likely have the 7/16 option in stock.

McMaster will have either the 12mm or 7/16 and usually delivers next day.

I do have a pair of OEM shocks on the shelf. If you've got the time, would be happy to knock out one of the studs and send it your way.

 

[IngotTexasRanger]

With a hammer and punch, you should be able to knock out the broken stud from under the control arm and order up a generic 8.8 or 10.8 12mm nut and bolt.

In a pinch, a 7/16 grade 5 or 8 will work as well.

Local hardware store will likely have the 7/16 option in stock.

McMaster will have either the 12mm or 7/16 and usually delivers next day.

I do have a pair of OEM shocks on the shelf. If you've got the time, would be happy to knock out one of the studs and send it your way.

Thanks for the info, I will definitely look for a new one or extras locally and if I can't I'll shoot you a PM and gladly pay for it all.

 

[ryyck]

Now that is serious, best friend help....

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Thanks for the info, I will definitely look for a new one or extras locally and if I can't I'll shoot you a PM and gladly pay for it all.

I'm in the Houston area and Napa should have something what will fit. Failing that you can try Oreilly's and see if they'll let you peruse the lug stud bin for one that will match it. LMK if you need a hand with it. I could come by later today to lend a hand.

 

[IngotTexasRanger]

I'm in the Houston area and Napa should have something what will fit. Failing that you can try Oreilly's and see if they'll let you peruse the lug stud bin for one that will match it. LMK if you need a hand with it. I could come by later today to lend a hand.

Will definitely look there first as soon as I get off work. Thanks for the recommendation! I normally go to Oreilly's for stuff like this but never had a catastrophic failure like this happen... And haha I do appreciate the offer but I should be able to handle it with the help of my dad (a much more experienced home mechanic than myself), if things go way south I'll definitely shoot you a PM lol

 

[Langwilliams]

you can get grade 8 bolts at Lowe's...I usually try tractor supply first since they are quite a bit cheaper.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Sounds good. If you're unable to locate one that will work and absolutely need the truck but can't wait for @SOHK_Alumni to pull a stud and ship it to you, there is a very temporary option that will work as long as you don't drive too crazy. I have done this a few times in the past when faced with a similar issue and wasn't able to get a replacement shock/strut stud right away.

Go to a hardware store that carries high quality grade 8 steel bolts and nuts. They have to be verified Grade 8. Anything less may sheer off or snap. Find one as close to the same or diameter and length as the stock stud as you can. You'll also need pick up some thick flat washers of differing diameters. The larger one for the top side and smaller matching the stock nut diameter for the bottom, at least two grade 8 nuts, and some blue lock-tite compound. Knock the broken stud out and replace it with the bold/washer from the top. Then install the second washer and nut on the bottom torquing it to the required spec. Make sure to keep a very close eye on the washers to make sure they do not warp. Once torqued down apply the loc-tite to the bolt threads up against the first nut and then install the second nut. and torque a little less than the first nut. You may need to use an open ended wrench on the first nut to prevent the socket from going over it when torquing the second nut down.

After that reassemble everything else and take it out for a short test drive. Be sure to listen for any unusual sounds from that wheel. Then when you get back, jack it up pull the wheel and inspect it to make sure it is all secure and nothing shifted. This should hold you over until you can replace the stud.

 

[ryyck]

I love forums...beat the establishment.

 

[IngotTexasRanger]

Sounds good. If you're unable to locate one that will work and absolutely need the truck but can't wait for @SOHK_Alumni to pull a stud and ship it to you, there is a very temporary option that will work as long as you don't drive too crazy. I have done this a few times in the past when faced with a similar issue and wasn't able to get a replacement shock/strut stud right away.

Go to a hardware store that carries high quality grade 8 steel bolts and nuts. They have to be verified Grade 8. Anything less may sheer off or snap. Find one as close to the same or diameter and length as the stock stud as you can. You'll also need pick up some thick flat washers of differing diameters. The larger one for the top side and smaller matching the stock nut diameter for the bottom, at least two grade 8 nuts, and some blue lock-tite compound. Knock the broken stud out and replace it with the bold/washer from the top. Then install the second washer and nut on the bottom torquing it to the required spec. Make sure to keep a very close eye on the washers to make sure they do not warp. Once torqued down apply the loc-tite to the bolt threads up against the first nut and then install the second nut. and torque a little less than the first nut. You may need to use an open ended wrench on the first nut to prevent the socket from going over it when torquing the second nut down.

After that reassemble everything else and take it out for a short test drive. Be sure to listen for any unusual sounds from that wheel. Then when you get back, jack it up pull the wheel and inspect it to make sure it is all secure and nothing shifted. This should hold you over until you can replace the stud.

Hope it doesnt come to that, but good to know. Sounds like you've been through the ringer with that experience. I wouldn't wish this experience on my worst enemy. I was 2 minutes away from putting the lugnuts back on and going for a shake down drive, but thats just indicative of my luck haha!

 

[Porpoise Hork]

lol. yeah you could say that. You know how some people have guardian angels that look out for them keeping them from harm's way and all that.

Well..

This is mine..

 

[IngotTexasRanger]

Hey y'all a little update:

I managed to extract the broken stud from the strut relatively easy (with help). I didn't think to take pictures of the setup, but I just placed the head side face down in a long metal tube flush up against the horizontal "t" of the strut the with the bottom of the pipe placed on a piece of wood. The tower was a few inches off the ground so the springs didn't affect it. Knocked it loose with a hammer in about 10 swings. It was getting to be about 8pm at this point and none of the parts stores that were still open had one long enough or would special order this bolt (which we came to educated guess that the closest fit was an M12x1.75x80mm.). I think in the morning I will head to the parts department at my local ford dealer and see if they have one, if not I think I will just take a leap and burn a hole in my wallet and buy a whole new assembly. I'm getting kind of tired having the truck on jack stands going on 3 days now, and am a little weary of the possible risk that replacing the locking stud will cause a weakness in the splines and therefore the suspension.

Also heres whats left of the stud after being removed from under the truck:

 

[Porpoise Hork]

If you're going to replace the whole setup, may as well get the Eibach's. Not only can you set them to level the front, but everyone who has installed them and reported back rave about the much improved ride quality.

They are probably the next item on my "So what do I want to do to it this week and piss my wife off with?" mod list.

 

[quangdog]

Hey y'all a little update:

I managed to extract the broken stud from the strut relatively easy (with help). I didn't think to take pictures of the setup, but I just placed the head side face down in a long metal tube flush up against the horizontal "t" of the strut the with the bottom of the pipe placed on a piece of wood. The tower was a few inches off the ground so the springs didn't affect it. Knocked it loose with a hammer in about 10 swings. It was getting to be about 8pm at this point and none of the parts stores that were still open had one long enough or would special order this bolt (which we came to educated guess that the closest fit was an M12x1.75x80mm.). I think in the morning I will head to the parts department at my local ford dealer and see if they have one, if not I think I will just take a leap and burn a hole in my wallet and buy a whole new assembly. I'm getting kind of tired having the truck on jack stands going on 3 days now, and am a little weary of the possible risk that replacing the locking stud will cause a weakness in the splines and therefore the suspension.

Also heres whats left of the stud after being removed from under the truck:

Glad you were able to get the busted bolt out... when I installed my leveling kit I tried for about 30 minutes to knock those out per the instructions that came with my set, and there was no way I was ever going to be able to get them out. Nearly knocked my vice clean off my work bench, I was hitting it so hard.

As someone else suggested: a local farm supply or tractor supply would likely have a very very close match to the OEM hardware. Incidentally, I've recently ordered all new nyloc nuts and axle retention nuts for my front end as I don't trust re-using the factory hardware per the shop service manual. I tried several parts supply places for OEM Ford parts - they all said that the hardware was all backordered until at least the third week of July.

I'm also looking suspiciously at possibly swapping out my stock shocks+leveling kit at either the Eibach or Fox 2.0 kits.

At any rate: I hope you are able to get it safely back on the road asap. Good luck!

 

[IngotTexasRanger]

Thanks, Definitely also gonna check out tractor supply co if Ford doesn’t have what I need, looks like they have it in class 8.8 if the online inventory is accurate. Only issue is the closest one to me is 20 miles away... With how much trouble this has been so far I think I’m gonna move to a more proper suspension setup sooner than I hoped than just the spacer level. Was planning on running it for about a year or so, might not even make it 2 months at this rate. It’s my own fault for putting too much trust in my torque wrench but this whole install that only took me 3 hours up until it snapped has been a massive headache thus far.

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