2019-2020 Ranger Hellwig Rear Sway Bar Install Video!

[Jason@Stage3]

We recently installed a Hellwig Rear Sway Bar on our 2019 Ford Ranger Project Truck to help prep it for towing a SmittyBilt Scout Trailer (which only happened all of one time before current events), and the install video is now up on our YouTube channel.



Direct link to video.

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[AlanBowers86]

Very cool. Is there a plan to have a driving impressions video on this to show how it can help handling or towing ability?

 

[Jason@Stage3]

Very cool. Is there a plan to have a driving impressions video on this to show how it can help handling or towing ability?

Eventually. We ran the Ranger up north pre-sway bar install with the Scout Trailer, and we're hoping to do a before/after review at some point. No guarantee on when.

Noah's a little "meh" on thing thus far, but I haven't driven the truck myself yet.

 

[Rviator]

I think you'll see more of a difference carrying a heavy load in the bed than when towing, especially a load with a high CG.

 

[Gil-galad]

I recently installed the Hellwig RSB on my ’21 Lariat and thought I’d share a few details of my experience in the context of this video for anyone considering this mod. I purchased the bar from Stage 3 Motorsports based on my good experience with them on a previous order. There are a few quirks not mentioned in this Stage 3 installation video, and one possibly serious misrepresentation.** My objective in acquiring and installing the bar was to help stabilize the rear of the truck while towing my 3500 lb travel trailer. If going off-road is your thing, this bar is definitely not for you as it would negate the independent articulation of the rear suspension.

Firstly, let me start out by saying there’s no way I could have completed the installation without the help of Stage 3 and this video. The installation instructions provided by Hellwig with the kit are fair at best. There are several numbered figures, mostly images of various components of the installation in their completed state; however, the written instructions only make reference to one of the images (Figure 4). There is only one image of an actual installation step—that image is the easiest step in the process (inserting the two-hole plate in the lower shock mount bracket) and it isn’t even correlated with its companion written instructions. The step-by-step instructions omit nut and washer sizes in most places. There is no parts list and no picture or drawing allowing one to correlate a part with its written description. One is left to guess which side of the bar is “up” (more on that later).

When I unboxed my kit for a quick parts inventory and fit check, I quickly realized the two-hole lower shock mount plates provided were the wrong parts. They were too long for the shock mount and the hex head bolt holes were spaced 3/4” wider than the holes in the shock mount. I contacted both Stage 3 and Hellwig customer service via email. Stage 3 responded in less than a day, promising to contact Hellwig and set thing right. While I never heard directly from Hellwig the correct plates arrived in less than a week. Five stars to Stage 3 for their customer service and a positive nod to Hellwig for getting the correct parts out promptly.

The video makes exclusive reference to metric sizes in the install video. The written instructions make almost universal reference to inch-fraction sizes. I used whatever socket and spanner fit best at the time.

A few items of note regarding the actual installation:

The C-shaped muffler spacer is open-ended on the side with the mounting bolt hole. As a result, it is very easy to squish the “C” shape when tightening down the 8 mm bolt, which would leave insufficient clearance between the exhaust hanger and the sway bar mount and end link. The instructions don't provide a recommended torque. Be super careful not to honk down on this bolt too much. It almost looks as though the 3/8” x 1” locating stud could be inserted far enough into the spacer to make contact with the original locating pin and help prevent the spacer from getting squished; however, the image in the instructions show a gap instead of contact. The OEM exhaust hanger bolt that I removed had a captive washer attached to it but the supplied, longer replacement 8 mm bolt doesn’t have a washer. I had to supply my own.

Someone in another thread mentioned using red thread locker (as opposed to the supplied blue) on the 1-1/2” studs for the shock mount adapter plates. I also recommend using the red stuff instead. That way, at some future time when you want to remove the bushings to re-grease them, the lock nut will loosen instead of the base of the stud.

The two bolt holes in each of the U-shaped brackets holding the bar’s D bushings in place are oval-shaped and much larger than the 3/8” stud used to mount them. As a result, when you torque down the nuts to their specification (20-30 lb-ft) the sides of the cheap 3/8” zinc washers supplied with the kit get crushed into those oval holes. If the studs are off-center at all the washer can crush at an angle and cause the stud to bend. I did myself a favor by scrapping the supplied zinc washers and replaced them with my own doubled-up Grade 8 washers of the appropriate size.

The kit provides four 7/16” washers for the lower tie rod mounting bolt but that’s oversized for the 3/8” bolt on the threaded end, between the nut and the end of the bar. I swapped the inside washers out for 3/8” washers and they worked much better there.

There are fore and aft limitations when locating the upper end link mounting brackets. On the driver’s side, the truck's left upper shock mount attachment point prevents the mounting bracket from being located directly over the end of the bar. Ideally the bracket should be about an inch further forward to achieve a vertical end link at the bar’s center hole location. On the passenger’s side, the exhaust hanger limits how far back the mounting bracket can be placed. In this case, the limiting component is not the bracket itself but the threaded end of the 7/16” bolt used to fasten the top of the end link. I had to re-mount my bracket when I reached the subsequent installation step and realized the bolt was impinging on the exhaust hanger. In the final analysis, the slightly-out-of-vertical end links are within the tolerance of the different angles you get when adjusting the bar stiffness but I’m mildly annoyed the two end links cannot be made exactly parallel to each other.

The bar and its mounting brackets are beefy, sturdy, well preserved, and appear to be made to last for the life of the truck. Most of the peripheral hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) are adequate, with the exceptions noted above.

**This Stage 3 video 'appears' to show the bar upside-down after installation, especially at 10:07 of the video. Sure looks like the center of the bar is higher than the D bushings and the bottom of the differential housing. (Again, it’s worth noting neither the video nor the written instructions tell you which side of the bar is “up.”) Hellwig’s instructions include an image showing the center of the bar at least an inch below the bottom of the differential housing, but camera angles can be deceiving. In a quest to maximize ground clearance, I initially copied the example in the video so the center of the bar would be higher than the D bushings. After I completed my installation, I performed a clearance test by using a floor jack to elevate the rear of the truck and unload the suspension. Even before the tires were off the ground, the bar had rotated to the point where it was making contact with the differential cover plate. It’s easy to imagine what might happen to that cover plate if the rear of the truck went airborne over a hump. Of course, I uninstalled the bar, flipped it over, and reattached it.

Regarding ground clearance losses, the center of the bar on my truck sits a fraction of an inch (~1/2”) lower than the bottom of the differential housing. The D bushing brackets extend about 1” lower than the original lower shock mounts. I’m guessing shock mount skid plates are not compatible with the brackets. The slight loss of clearance is not an issue for me.

As far as performance, while towing the truck is noticeably better planted and is not as squirrelly in crosswind conditions or when following a semi on the highway. When not towing, the rear is absolutely flat while cornering. The additional oversteer is not problematic but I haven’t and don’t plan on pushing the truck in the twisties like I’m able to do in my MINI Cooper. I suspect it would get pretty tail-happy in a hurry.

Worthwhile purchase? Time will tell. So far I’m happy with the performance. I’m surprised at some of the shortcomings, particularly the installation instructions, for a nearly $600 investment.

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