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Throttle Body Cleaning

derekw24

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Hi Guys,

I was looking around online and didnt find any exact videos or write-ups on how to get to and clean the throttle body on the Ranger (I have a 2020). Mine just hit over 100k miles and I want to remove it and see if I can clean off some gunk and maybe get better throttle response/shifting. I dont have any immediate concerns its more of a "preventative maintenance" kind of task. This would be my first time removing and cleaning a throttle body on any vehicle, so I want to make sure what the process would be before I get into it.

I saw a video on YouTube from ford tech makuloco and saw tips on recalibrating so I hopefully dont run into issues after putting it back.

Just curious if any of you have done this and if you have pictures or videos as a how-to.

Thanks in advance!
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My12SecRanger

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Hi Derek get yourself a good can of throttle body cleaner and a soft brass brush, remover the TB and get to cleaning, definitely replace the TB gasket and for the hard deposits I used a pocket screwdriver to scrape that off, dry with a clean towel that should do it
 
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derekw24

derekw24

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Hi Derek get yourself a good can of throttle body cleaner and a soft brass brush, remover the TB and get to cleaning, definitely replace the TB gasket and for the hard deposits I used a pocket screwdriver to scrape that off, dry with a clean towel that should do it
Hey thanks for the tips! Good reminder on the gasket. I am wondering if you know whether i need to get the gasket directly through ford parts website so I know it fits or if I’d be fine using the part from Autozone (says it’s a direct fit and looks similar?)

I put pictures of both of them below. Thanks!
IMG_7117.webp
IMG_7116.webp
 

My12SecRanger

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either one will do the job, no calibration adjustment is needed
 
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derekw24

derekw24

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either one will do the job, no calibration adjustment is needed
One other question for you. I went out to check under the hood again, the throttle body is on the driver side of the engine bay right? (Circled in the picture below)

Also wondering if that is it, if I’ll need to remove this pipe (second picture), it doesn’t have the same style clamp like on the opposite side, just some sort of metal piece to unhinge?
IMG_7133.jpeg
IMG_7135.jpeg
 


My12SecRanger

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I would undo the throttle body clamp and bend the rubber part of intercooler hose out of the way it is very flexible, remove small emissions hose clamp and pull up to release it move to the side and tb should be 4 x 8mm bolts
 
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derekw24

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I would undo the throttle body clamp and bend the rubber part of intercooler hose out of the way it is very flexible, remove small emissions hose clamp and pull up to release it move to the side and tb should be 4 x 8mm bolts
Got it. Thanks a bunch!
 

yamahaSHO

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You can clean it without taking it off. We have to do this on some vehicles after flashing a map. If the TB is dirty, it doesn't want to start and idle as it can't learn the idle procedure. We just wedge the TB open with something that isn't metal, then use carb cleaner, rags, and a toothbrush to clean. Works great.
 

Titchadesh

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This is a timely thread for me as I am determined to finally fix a persistent cold weather problem that I have every year with P0068 & P2282 codes and issues at idle speeds. ChatGPT insists a dirty throttle body is the likely root cause, or at the very least a major contributor to my issue.

Question, you mention a youtube video by makuloco that you watched -- I'm a visual learner so I looked at the channel and there are literally dozens where the throttle body is the focus. Is there one in particular that gave you a good visual idea what is needed to get this thing cleaned?
 
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derekw24

derekw24

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This is a timely thread for me as I am determined to finally fix a persistent cold weather problem that I have every year with P0068 & P2282 codes and issues at idle speeds. ChatGPT insists a dirty throttle body is the likely root cause, or at the very least a major contributor to my issue.

Question, you mention a youtube video by makuloco that you watched -- I'm a visual learner so I looked at the channel and there are literally dozens where the throttle body is the focus. Is there one in particular that gave you a good visual idea what is needed to get this thing cleaned?
This is the one where he gives tips on what to for cleaning. I did a bit of research about best cleaning methods and from what I gather sounds like it’s actually better to just spray the throttle body cleaner on a clean rag and wipe it down, rather than spraying directly on the throttle body so that’s what i’ll try (slightly different from how he does it in the video and i won’t use any sort of brush because I want to be safe.)



This is the video he did on recalibration after cleaning the throttle body for the idle relearn. Really all it is is disconnecting battery, to remove memory from pcm and then once cleaned, put it back on, re connect battery and let the truck sit and idle for like 15 mins. That’s what I got from the video



Hopefully that helps, I haven’t done it yet myself but probably tomorrow or this weekend I will do this.
 

Titchadesh

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Super helpful, thank you! And also thanks for getting clarity on replacing the gasket as well, I'm about to pick one up from my local autozone
 
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derekw24

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Super helpful, thank you! And also thanks for getting clarity on replacing the gasket as well, I'm about to pick one up from my local autozone
Glad to help! Hopefully gets rid of those codes for ya. Should idle a lot better and potentially shift smoother as well. I’m curious for the results myself. I have 102k right now so I bet mine will be dirty
 

Titchadesh

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Putting this here in case someone finds it helpful in the future—I removed my throttle body with the intention of cleaning it and replacing the gasket to hopefully get rid of persistent P0068 (MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation) & P2282 (Air Leak Between Throttle Body and Intake Valves) codes that only rear their head in colder weather and before the engine warms up. My steps:

1) Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (10mm socket)

2) Unclipped the Fuel Vapour Separator Tube from the top of the Turbocharger Outlet Tube (the large one going into the Throttle Body). Just pull the white/gray clip out laterally and pull the connector upwards. Once disconnected, I pulled the tube out of the way and to the left

3) Loosened the clamp connecting the Turbocharger Outlet Tube to the Throttle Body (7mm socket) I was careful to only loosen it and not remove the bolt completely from the clamp. You could also use a flathead screwdriver here.

4) Removed the (4) 8mm bolts holding the throttle body in place. To get the top 2 bolts I moved the large Turbocharger Outlet Tube downwards out of the way, and to get the bottom 2 bolts I moved it upwards so that I could have the clearance I needed. There was not enough room for me to use my ratchet to remove these bolts, I had to use a screwdriver with 8mm socket attachment to get in there properly.

5) Removed the wired connector from the Throttle Body. This part was tricky because it took a while to realize it had a secondary safety clip that needed to be pressed in order to slide out of the connection. Pull the red clip out of the connector, and then with a flathead screwdriver look for a tiny black tab towards the base of the connector that needs to be pressed in and then the connector will slide off. I wasted too much time thinking it was a stuck connection. Headlamp highly recommended.

6) Optional—I removed and replaced the gasket after removing the Throttle Body. I inspected it and didn't see anything overtly wrong with it. It slides out and I put in my new one — the same part number from Autozone that OP called out in this thread

There you have it—it's now free to clean. In looking mine over, I think I finally discovered the gremlin that has been giving me trouble all of this time. The sensor housing looks to be smashed and exposed.

IMG_7082.JPG


IMG_7083.JPG


This doesn't seem to be because of anything else nearby in the engine bay being loose, this was from a hard impact of some sort. I don't note any other nearby damage. Seeing this, I opted not to clean it (fearful of solvent intrusion into the sensor) and given the high likelihood this is the cause of my problems am going to replace it with a new one entirely.

This is how dirty mine is after 80,000. Mechanically it seems to be able to move freely with no stickiness, though I would have felt better about cleaning all that carbon and gunk off:

IMG_7084.JPG
IMG_7087.JPG


Installing felt easier to me than taking it out. I simply reversed the steps above and I was good to go. I then followed the Idle re-learn process which is initiated by:

1) First turning the vehicle power on (not the ignition, yet) and allow 30 seconds to pass to allow the PCM to initialize the throttle body

2) Start the engine and let it idle for 3 minutes with all accessories off

3) Turn the engine off for at least 1 minute

4) Start again and drive normally for 10-15 minutes with varied throttle inputs

It felt smooth to me during my test drive--no better, no less than how it drove before changing the throttle body. I won't know until winter starts whether this change solved my long-term problem, but I feel good about switching out the TB with an obviously compromised sensor.
 
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derekw24

derekw24

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Putting this here in case someone finds it helpful in the future—I removed my throttle body with the intention of cleaning it and replacing the gasket to hopefully get rid of persistent P0068 (MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation) & P2282 (Air Leak Between Throttle Body and Intake Valves) codes that only rear their head in colder weather and before the engine warms up. My steps:

1) Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (10mm socket)

2) Unclipped the Fuel Vapour Separator Tube from the top of the Turbocharger Outlet Tube (the large one going into the Throttle Body). Just pull the white/gray clip out laterally and pull the connector upwards. Once disconnected, I pulled the tube out of the way and to the left

3) Loosened the clamp connecting the Turbocharger Outlet Tube to the Throttle Body (7mm socket) I was careful to only loosen it and not remove the bolt completely from the clamp. You could also use a flathead screwdriver here.

4) Removed the (4) 8mm bolts holding the throttle body in place. To get the top 2 bolts I moved the large Turbocharger Outlet Tube downwards out of the way, and to get the bottom 2 bolts I moved it upwards so that I could have the clearance I needed. There was not enough room for me to use my ratchet to remove these bolts, I had to use a screwdriver with 8mm socket attachment to get in there properly.

5) Removed the wired connector from the Throttle Body. This part was tricky because it took a while to realize it had a secondary safety clip that needed to be pressed in order to slide out of the connection. Pull the red clip out of the connector, and then with a flathead screwdriver look for a tiny black tab towards the base of the connector that needs to be pressed in and then the connector will slide off. I wasted too much time thinking it was a stuck connection.

6) Optional—I removed and replaced the gasket after removing the Throttle Body. I inspected it and didn't see anything overtly wrong with it. It slides out and I put in my new one — the same part number from Autozone that OP called out in this thread

There you have it—it's now free to clean. In looking mine over, I think I finally discovered the gremlin that has been giving me trouble all of this time. The sensor housing looks to be smashed and exposed.

IMG_7082.JPG


IMG_7083.JPG


This doesn't seem to be because of anything else nearby in the engine bay being loose, this was from a hard impact of some sort. I don't note any other nearby damage. Seeing this, I opted not to clean it (fearful of solvent intrusion into the sensor) and given the high likelihood this is the cause of my problems am going to replace it with a new one entirely. It's currently being overnighted to me since none of the local dealerships have it on hand.

This is how dirty mine is after 80,000. Mechanically it seems to be able to move freely with no stickiness, though I would have felt better about cleaning all that carbon and gunk off:

IMG_7084.JPG
IMG_7087.JPG


Super eager for the new one to arrive and hopefully put an end to my saga!
Wow, fantastic write up! Thanks for letting us know how it went for you. So to confirm, you didn’t need to remove the intercooler hose out completely you were able to loosen just the clamp closest to the throttle body and move it out and then up/down for room to work?

Glad you talked about the electrical connector clip, I was wondering about the removal because those things are a pain most of the time. I will be removing mine today/tomorrow and will try and remember to send a picture of how mine looks. Hopefully I can just get away with a good cleaning.

Good thing you popped out the throttle body to find that damage. Definitely better to replace. Should drive a lot better now!
 

Titchadesh

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Yes that's exactly right—no need to remove the intercooler hose at all, just loosen the clamp and pull it away from the body, then it's free to nudge upwards and downwards depending on which 8mm bolts you are trying to remove.

Yes that clip felt like a beast until I finally spotted the secondary tab. It is very tiny. Would definitely recommend a headlamp while working in this area of the engine bay in general.

Best of luck!
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