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Sway bar quicker disconnects (no modification)

jared152

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After piecing together multiple different scattered posts I researched over the past couple of weeks, I was able to install sway bar quick disconnects with no modification on my 2023 FX4.

Ordered JK 2.5”-6” lift Sway bar “quicker disconnects” on Amazon for about $30. They are a clone of the original JKS (made in USA) branded version for JK jeeps.

I extended the size to the same size as the stock ranger ones and installed with no modification to the Ranger. Some forum posts have reported needing to drill out the hole on the knuckle where the sway bar mounts. I did not have to do this. To ease install I greased the inside of the bushings prior to sliding them over the mounts due to a tight fit. I did not install the small 1/2” polyurethane spacers that the kit came with. I greased the zerk fittings after install and completed my first off-road trip.
IMG_1859.webp

IMG_1854.webp

IMG_1992.webp


Easy to takeoff at the trailhead and went back on easy on a level asphalt road near the trail head. If they break or rust or anything I will upgrade to the JKS brand ones for about $150-180.You can buy the JKS bushing rebuild kit separately for $30 if the clone bushings degrade quickly as well.

I will replace the quick disconnect pins with trailer hitch pins soon. The pins are nice but I pulled the ring out by accident by pulling too hard. I was able to put it back together with no issues, but I do not want to deal with that issue again under potentially worse conditions.
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IMG_1968.webp


Link to exact Amazon listing I used:
https://a.co/d/0aJmPmyZ

Link to JKS original US made version:
https://jksmfg.com/products/quicker-disconnect-sway-bar-links-2-5-6-0-lift-wrangler-jk-da166f6d
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NvrFinished

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After piecing together multiple different scattered posts I researched over the past couple of weeks, I was able to install sway bar quick disconnects with no modification on my 2023 FX4.

Ordered JK 2.5”-6” lift Sway bar “quicker disconnects” on Amazon for about $30. They are a clone of the original JKS (made in USA) branded version for JK jeeps.

I extended the size to the same size as the stock ranger ones and installed with no modification to the Ranger. Some forum posts have reported needing to drill out the hole on the knuckle where the sway bar mounts. I did not have to do this. To ease install I greased the inside of the bushings prior to sliding them over the mounts due to a tight fit. I did not install the small 1/2” polyurethane spacers that the kit came with. I greased the zerk fittings after install and completed my first off-road trip.
IMG_1859.webp

IMG_1854.webp

IMG_1992.webp


Easy to takeoff at the trailhead and went back on easy on a level asphalt road near the trail head. If they break or rust or anything I will upgrade to the JKS brand ones for about $150-180.You can buy the JKS bushing rebuild kit separately for $30 if the clone bushings degrade quickly as well.

I will replace the quick disconnect pins with trailer hitch pins soon. The pins are nice but I pulled the ring out by accident by pulling too hard. I was able to put it back together with no issues, but I do not want to deal with that issue again under potentially worse conditions.
.
IMG_1968.webp


Link to exact Amazon listing I used:
https://a.co/d/0aJmPmyZ

Link to JKS original US made version:
https://jksmfg.com/products/quicker-disconnect-sway-bar-links-2-5-6-0-lift-wrangler-jk-da166f6d
Thanks for showing that these work! Do they clink or make noise at all?
 
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jared152

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No noise, no discernible difference while driving.

some of the poor reviews on Amazon related to bushings, noise, etc may be from people not properly greasing. I have about 200 miles on them so far

ill update long term if anything changes
 

RealRigsRattle

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My guess why you didn’t have to drill is that you have steel knuckles since they have larger hardware than the the aluminum knuckles.
 

NvrFinished

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My guess why you didn’t have to drill is that you have steel knuckles since they have larger hardware than the the aluminum knuckles.
I thought about that too. However, the Ford part number for the end links is the same for either knuckle, so the holes must be the same diameter.
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