Shifter not going into park

[BlueJay]

So, I drove to work today and went to pull into my parking space and the transmission would not go into reverse. The shifter just slid through the gears without catching. I shifted to park, but it did not catch, and is stuck in gear now and the shifter won't move from the park position. So I can't start the truck since the transmission is not in park, and I'm unable to move the shifter from its current position. The 'Trigger' or button on the shifter is stuck 'in' as if it is between gears. Anyone have this issue, or any quick fixes?

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[Msfitoy]

It's that bomb proof tranny...

 

[airline tech]

One possibility is the Brake Shift Interlock not disengaging (releasing) when the brake pedal is pressed.
This produces a slight click when you push down on the brake pedal.
Under the shift boot is a manual release (white?) lever this is the by-pass for the interlock.
Note: Owners Manual shows location

As I am uncertain of the exact issue you have, I am pointing out the possible issues, a key point is (Do the Brake Lights Work?) and do you hear the click and with that click feel it in the shift lever?

If no - Check Fuse #47 (Eng Bay Fuse Box) -- This feeds the brake pedal position switch
If no help, try pulling and reseating the brake switch connector

If the above is working correctly


It will need T-Shot to pinpoint it down, Selector Lever Assembly - Knob Assembly - Cable Assembly or Internal Transmission but a good place to start is to ensure this clip lock is fully seated and secure.
Pull the console panel up to reveal the clip and also attaching hardware.
This has been known to become unlatched.

It appears the above is a redesign and below was the original design which had issues.
IDK for sure but the manuals have these varied pics.

There is a adjustment on that cable and its posted here - Post #22

Need a pic of the transmission shift arm, the dealer let Mongo R&R my trans. | Page 2 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

And using the above adjustment reference as a guide, ensure the cable is secured at the transmission shift lever.

There was a Recall for this but it was only for a small production date on the 2020MY, as for the cable locking clip not being secure.

 

[Grandaccess]

So, I drove to work today and went to pull into my parking space and the transmission would not go into reverse. The shifter just slid through the gears without catching. I shifted to park, but it did not catch, and is stuck in gear now and the shifter won't move from the park position. So I can't start the truck since the transmission is not in park, and I'm unable to move the shifter from its current position. The 'Trigger' or button on the shifter is stuck 'in' as if it is between gears. Anyone have this issue, or any quick fixes?

it may be something in the column and not the tranny, if it slides and not catches dont sound like tranny
You should still be able to start in (N) or push up hard into park and hold it while you turn the key?
I lost reverse in an older Ford once and drove it that way for months, park uphill so you can roll back out of the spot, look for spots you can pull through in a lot so you are already facing out, its a pain in the ass but in this economy having to put out 1000s I would delay as long as I could... maybe even find another truck in the mean time and drive this one to the scrap yard after?

 

[Grandaccess]

One possibility is the Brake Shift Interlock not disengaging (releasing) when the brake pedal is pressed.
This produces a slight click when you push down on the brake pedal.
Under the shift boot is a manual release (white?) lever this is the by-pass for the interlock.
Note: Owners Manual shows location

As I am uncertain of the exact issue you have, I am pointing out the possible issues, a key point is (Do the Brake Lights Work?) and do you hear the click and with that click feel it in the shift lever?

If no - Check Fuse #47 (Eng Bay Fuse Box) -- This feeds the brake pedal position switch
If no help, try pulling and reseating the brake switch connector

If the above is working correctly


It will need T-Shot to pinpoint it down, Selector Lever Assembly - Knob Assembly - Cable Assembly or Internal Transmission but a good place to start is to ensure this clip lock is fully seated and secure.
Pull the console panel up to reveal the clip and also attaching hardware.
This has been known to become unlatched.

It appears the above is a redesign and below was the original design which had issues.
IDK for sure but the manuals have these varied pics.

There is a adjustment on that cable and its posted here - Post #22

Need a pic of the transmission shift arm, the dealer let Mongo R&R my trans. | Page 2 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

And using the above adjustment reference as a guide, ensure the cable is secured at the transmission shift lever.

There was a Recall for this but it was only for a small production date on the 2020MY, as for the cable locking clip not being secure.

Thats what I was thinking
or something popped off in that area under that cover

 

[rang19ca]

Airline Tech points out some good things to check. I used to see issues with the brake solenoid to not release the shifter in the old Rangers.

 

[BlueJay]

***Update***
I was able to research the issue more in depth and found that there is a shift interlock bypass button that can be pressed and releases the gear shifter allowing it to be moved without pressing the brake pedal. It can be accessed by popping the faux leather boot cover off that surrounds the gear shifter. Once the boot cover is off, just underneath the back right corner of the open space (corner closest to the passenger seat) there is a small, white flat button. Press and hold that down and you should be able to move the gear shifter.

Once I did that, I was able to move the gear shifter and shift through all the gear without issue. Still unsure what exactly caused this to happen, but everything functions as it should. Hope this helps someone else if you find yourself with a similar issue.

 

[airline tech]

***Update***
I was able to research the issue more in depth and found that there is a shift interlock bypass button that can be pressed and releases the gear shifter allowing it to be moved without pressing the brake pedal. It can be accessed by popping the faux leather boot cover off that surrounds the gear shifter. Once the boot cover is off, just underneath the back right corner of the open space (corner closest to the passenger seat) there is a small, white flat button. Press and hold that down and you should be able to move the gear shifter.

Once I did that, I was able to move the gear shifter and shift through all the gear without issue. Still unsure what exactly caused this to happen, but everything functions as it should. Hope this helps someone else if you find yourself with a similar issue.

Cool, if it does it again - Note if the brake lights are working at the time of the issue.

Brake Switch sends signal to the BCM that the brake is applied
BCM then sends power on another circuit to the (Shift Lock Actuator) which is integral to the shift lever assembly.

I suspect either the brake switch (malfunctioned) or the Shift Lock got stuck and did not move when you pressed the brake pedal.
And or a dirty connection from one of the connectors in the circuit.

If it becomes intermittent this is something that can be Bi-Direction controlled with a scan tool to by-pass the brake pedal input and only test the actuator.
As I mentioned above when it actuates you should hear a faint clicking sound and also feel the vibration in your hand.

 

[BlueJay]

Cool, if it does it again - Note if the brake lights are working at the time of the issue.

Brake Switch sends signal to the BCM that the brake is applied
BCM then sends power on another circuit to the (Shift Lock Actuator) which is integral to the shift lever assembly.

I suspect either the brake switch (malfunctioned) or the Shift Lock got stuck and did not move when you pressed the brake pedal.
And or a dirty connection from one of the connectors in the circuit.

If it becomes intermittent this is something that can be Bi-Direction controlled with a scan tool to by-pass the brake pedal input and only test the actuator.
As I mentioned above when it actuates you should hear a faint clicking sound and also feel the vibration in your hand.

The brake lights were working normally at the time, though at the time I could not feel or hear the solenoid clicking when pressing the brake pedal. Not sure how it's related but the brake pedal did not have the normal amount of play in it. I can feel and hear the solenoid now, so I feel like it may have been an isolated incident, at that's what I'm hoping. If it happens again, I'll take it to the dealer so they can charge a small fortune to determine the problem and go from there.

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