Rotor Rant

[HTX1811]

I am having a similar issue. I will probably just end up replacing the pads and rotors with aftermarket ones myself......but having issues finding decent ones.

Let Ford do the warranty work (if they will), then pull the new/resurfaced rotors off and have spares. Just a thought.

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[FloggingBishop]

I sometimes wonder if the dealer does the work and pays out of pocket then has to submit to Ford to be reimbursed... my dealer is decent, they always have tried to fix, but they don’t just go straight to brand new part, and I do sort of understand that. I had an issue with tire pressure sensor/level, I was 5hrs from my dealer and took it to the local where I was and it was just a headache so I told them to kick rocks. On my way home I passed a massive Ford dealer, and on a whim stopped in, told them the issue, and bam, new sensor and nitrogen top up. Not even any questions. Just done. Like on the spot. Also washed the truck... offered to get me lunch since I was on the road and had no ride or place to go. Couldn’t give me a loaner (stupid covid) but offered to take care of me. I have had similar experiences with GM where I am too. The big local are asshats, go 20 min down the road to the small town and it’s like you’re their second cousin.

I feel for you bruv , hope you get it sorted without costing you an arm and a dick.

 

[AdamHarris]

General rule of thumb; if the steering wheel "pulses" or shakes its the front rotors warped. If the "whole truck" or brake pedal pulses or shakes its the rear rotors warped (Again GENERAL rule).

Warping can happen to any vehicle new or old if certain unfortunate conditions are met (hard braking producing high heat level then introduced to water at just the right time, etc.)

Turning rotors is an acceptable fix for warped rotors PROVIDED there is enough rotor thickness remaining after the turning process.

Some vehicles and some drivers just warp rotors easier than others.

Only women declare their vehicle a "shitbox" after one little problem and immediately start talking down to everyone involved . Men figure out the problem and get it fixed..

 

[FloggingBishop]

General rule of thumb; if the steering wheel "pulses" or shakes its the front rotors warped. If the "whole truck" or brake pedal pulses or shakes its the rear rotors warped (Again GENERAL rule).

Warping can happen to any vehicle new or old if certain unfortunate conditions are met (hard braking producing high heat level then introduced to water at just the right time, etc.)

Turning rotors is an acceptable fix for warped rotors PROVIDED there is enough rotor thickness remaining after the turning process.

Some vehicles and some drivers just warp rotors easier than others.

Only women declare their vehicle a "shitbox" after one little problem and immediately start talking down to everyone involved . Men figure out the problem and get it fixed..

They just drive with the CEL on for 3 years and no oil in it then yell at me when I fix it and ask when it started to have problems. Ask me how I know.... divorced not so long after.... but I don’t blame her car for that. I blame her boyfriends.

 

[Leftcoast]

i think the Defect VS Damage rule is what Ford applies when it comes to rotors.

Its a very hard sell to them to plead your case thay you used your brakes normally. They can easily make the claim that you don't, hence they arent defective from the factory, you damaged them by your specific use.

For example, I had rotor warping issues on my F150. Literally was getting new rotors every oil change. I heard every excuse by them that I braked excessively, i overheated the rotors and drove through water blah blah blah.
I still got my new rotors, but it was not an easy fight.

Good point.

 

[JohnnyO]

I am having a similar issue. I will probably just end up replacing the pads and rotors with aftermarket ones myself......but having issues finding decent ones.

I like NAPA's Ultra Premium rotors and their ceramic pads. They cost more than their regular rotors but not an arm and a leg and they're the only brakes my wife can't kill in a year on her car.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

I'm sure they'll love to do the emblem, and putting new rotors in my head is easier than fixing the old stuff that still might give you issues down the road

guarantee they will not hang your parts.
I dont agree with the machining angle BUT i get them trying the minimum solution first, either way new pads are an industry standard [period] you are just going to screw the profile of the existing pads into the straight rotors...moronic.

 

[Rick - Saber]

About how long ago were the tires rotated before you noticed the warped rotors? Wondering if the lug nuts were cranked on there a little too tight, possibly warping your rotors.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

About how long ago were the tires rotated before you noticed the warped rotors? Wondering if the lug nuts were cranked on there a little too tight, possibly warping your rotors.

Agreed. Improper lug torque can cause the rotors to warp. The other possible cause is heavy breaking that superheats the rotors then a rapid cool down from water like a large puddle. Seen more brake rotors develop a warp from these two things than I care to count.

 

[Ericrcif]

Actually nothing wrong with resurfacing rotors as long as its done properly. But slapping the same brake pads on a new shaved rotor is s nono because the pattern is on the pad and it will copy paste onto the new shaved rotor. Need new pads

This

 

[Waxthis]

Day two. Still no word back from Ford on repair authorization. Jesus, you would think we were talking about an engine rebuild here.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hi Eric,

I recall a couple cases of warped rear rotors that were determined to be caused by stuck rear calipers. I would hope the dealer would verify the calipers on your truck are not "stuck". If warped because of heat, then the rear pads are toast and not viable to reinstall. What is with these dealers? It is not their money...Identify root cause, (still undetermined in my book) and implement a robust repair. SHEESH!

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[Turbotom1052]

They should just set-up a dial gauge and spin the rotor by hand and see how much run-out there is....not that hard and would only take 10 min per rotor, including removing the wheel. I guess common sense wasn't taught at their school.

Depending on the type of driving you are doing it is possible that all your dealing with is pad deposits. As mentioned I would run a dial indicator on the rotors and if the runout is within spec, Id be looking to burn off pad deposits. To do this you will want to find a safe stretch of road thats not very well traveled. Late night hours would be your best bet. Run the truck up to about 60 to 65 mph and then get on the brakes really hard right up the the point of ABS engagement. Allow the brakes to haul the truck down to a crawl, but not a full stop, and then repeat. Do this until you get to the point of smelling your brakes and even seeing smoke. This will usually take about 5 or 6 full hard brakings back to back, from 60 mph. Once you start to smell your brakes you will notice the brakes fading. This is where you want to be. Do this 60 to 1mph and immediately back to 60 until your brakes start to fade. Once your brakes are fading and your seeing or smelling smoke, you need to drive for 5 minutes or so to allow your brakes to cool off. During this cooling off period you want to avoid using your brakes if at all possible. You definitely do not want to come to a complete stop with your pads squeezing a hot rotor. Once your confident that your brakes are cooled off then just drive as normal. If you still feel pulsation in your brake pedal, then rotors swapped out as a pair, AND new pads are in order. I offer this suggestion to do at your own risk. All applicable local laws should be adhered to, and all safety issues to be YOUR responsibility!!!

 

[berlow94]

Depending on the type of driving you are doing it is possible that all your dealing with is pad deposits. As mentioned I would run a dial indicator on the rotors and if the runout is within spec, Id be looking to burn off pad deposits. To do this you will want to find a safe stretch of road thats not very well traveled. Late night hours would be your best bet. Run the truck up to about 60 to 65 mph and then get on the brakes really hard right up the the point of ABS engagement. Allow the brakes to haul the truck down to a crawl, but not a full stop, and then repeat. Do this until you get to the point of smelling your brakes and even seeing smoke. This will usually take about 5 or 6 full hard brakings back to back, from 60 mph. Once you start to smell your brakes you will notice the brakes fading. This is where you want to be. Do this 60 to 1mph and immediately back to 60 until your brakes start to fade. Once your brakes are fading and your seeing or smelling smoke, you need to drive for 5 minutes or so to allow your brakes to cool off. During this cooling off period you want to avoid using your brakes if at all possible. You definitely do not want to come to a complete stop with your pads squeezing a hot rotor. Once your confident that your brakes are cooled off then just drive as normal. If you still feel pulsation in your brake pedal, then rotors swapped out as a pair, AND new pads are in order. I offer this suggestion to do at your own risk. All applicable local laws should be adhered to, and all safety issues to be YOUR responsibility!!!

The only problem with this practice is that if the rotor already has uneven pad material deposited onto it, this method will just exacerbate it.
The uneven build up of material needs to be removed/leved first. Otherwise this method is only going to make the pulsing worse.

I do recommend this as a great new pad/rotor bed-in procedure though!

 

[JeffWoodall]

I sometimes wonder if the dealer does the work and pays out of pocket then has to submit to Ford to be reimbursed... my dealer is decent, they always have tried to fix, but they don’t just go straight to brand new part, and I do sort of understand that. I had an issue with tire pressure sensor/level, I was 5hrs from my dealer and took it to the local where I was and it was just a headache so I told them to kick rocks. On my way home I passed a massive Ford dealer, and on a whim stopped in, told them the issue, and bam, new sensor and nitrogen top up. Not even any questions. Just done. Like on the spot. Also washed the truck... offered to get me lunch since I was on the road and had no ride or place to go. Couldn’t give me a loaner (stupid covid) but offered to take care of me. I have had similar experiences with GM where I am too. The big local are asshats, go 20 min down the road to the small town and it’s like you’re their second cousin.

I feel for you bruv , hope you get it sorted without costing you an arm and a dick.

I had extensive warranty work done on my F150 a few times because I had a defective 2.7 Ecoboost engine from the factory, for which there were TSBs. I learned that any warranty work the dealer does, must be approved first, by Ford. Sometimes they have to send in “proof” such as photos, etc. once approved, they do get paid well, but for whatever time period the job takes according to Ford’s guidelines. If the job isn’t done right and comes back in to the shop, that is totally on the dealer at that point.
The Dealership wants to help you, because they know it could lead to more business in the future and/or good reviews online, which is very important to them.

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