RAT Stat 170* thermostat

[4rd SVT]

I think that the cooler stat and plugs are all about protecting the cylinder head, if you add more boost and more fuel you get more heat, more heat in the cc can result in pre-ignition so you can conceivably lose power if knock causes a retard of timing and reduces boost.
Reducing the overall engine operating temp can have a negative effect in that it will take longer to evap fuel in the oil, but that depends on the type of driving whether it matters.
As to impact on the cabin heat - differs a lot from engine to engine but I'd suspect on a turbo gdi motor it wouldn't make a huge difference.
So to me the cooler plugs and tsat are probably a good thing with respect to engine protection.

Livernois is working on a lower temperature thermostat (160) for our Rangers. It's in final development right now on test trucks from what I was told by Anthony. I inquired about the thermostats they had listed for our trucks on their website and he told me those are incorrect and not for our trucks. One is for a 2.3 Mustang and the other is for an F150 I believe. Waiting to see what they come out with and tune for

I also own a Focus RS that has the same 2.3L block/engine and there has been plenty of talk & issues with "Low-Speed Pre-Ignition" aka "LSPI" with the 2.3L in the RS.

Hagerty INS - Low Speed Pre Ignition

So I have installed a set of "one-step" cooler plugs & Livernois Motorsports Low-temp thermostat assembly to prevent this in my RS

Now owning the Ranger and having a 10-speed transmission... I've noticed how my truck typically refuses to downshift and wants to "lug the engine" in the same gear.

I typically have to reach down & "manually shift" gears to avoid this.

But when my wife & son drive the Ranger, I notice how my truck runs/responds... worried about having LSPI with my Ranger.

...............................................................................................................................................................

Someone mentioned "lack-of-heat-in-da-cab"...

I have already replaced the windshield last year...
Got a rock chip in 2021 and at some point in January or February of 2022, the family cranked the heat up while warming up the truck with the dial in the red at the three-o-clock position [manual control HVAC]...
Causing a stress crack across the windshield that started at the rock chip.

So now everyone here [family] knows to place the heat/dial in the one-o-clock when warming up the Ranger during the winter time.

At the one-o-clock position, it's hot inside the Ranger where I need to "turn down" the dial...

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[Dereku]

These bounced around the 7.3 powerstrokes for awhile too. Turned out the engine made peak power with the international thermostat which was actually a few degrees hotter than the ford one. Go figure.

 

[importfighter01]

Let us know how the 170 setup works. I’m in the camp that it may not deliver what you hope, but I support your desire and your right to try it.
Also, our engines have Mech fan clutches with some type of magnetic partical brake clutch system —or similar maybe? It will be interesting to see how this would work with a colder stat. .i.e, what inlet temp is it trying to maintain, etc.

Thermostat has worked well. I qualify that statement before everyone decides to come here saying that I’m endorsing it incorrectly and how OEM temp is perfect, etc to clarify that the part itself it functioning as intended. Here is the data I’ve observed scanning with the Ford Performance tune display. Please note for trans temps that the trans cooler thermostat is bypassed (it normally will not flow coolant to the trans cooler until trans fluid temp is 195 deg) and has the aluminum PPE deep transmission pan.

Avg coolant temp - 177 f
Avg cylinder head temp - 178 f
Avg Transmission fluid temp - 176 f

One day I decided to get into the gnarliest stop and go traffic I could for 30 min on a warm day here in GA to see what the temps would be with an extended heat soak.

Highest coolant temp - 185 f
Highest cylinder head temp - 185 f
Highest transmission temp - 188f

I am very pleased to say that without modifying the factory fan to kick on sooner (can’t be done from research I could find from Ford F-250’s that have similar electric fan clutch as us), the factory radiator does a nice job of dissipating the heat from the coolant and as soon as airflow comes into play when the truck starts to move again temps drop very quickly as well. The truck does reach closed loop with this cooler thermostat, and while I’m confident if I had the all aluminum radiator from Mishimoto I could get right down to 170 consistently, the research I could find on modern Fords said that some emission readiness monitors won’t set until an operating temp of 170 is reached. Thus to not have that struggle I’m happy with the results of the stock radiator and 170 deg t-stat (esp considering that this radiator cools the engine, engine oil, EGR exhaust gases, and transmission).

 

[importfighter01]

I also own a Focus RS that has the same 2.3L block/engine and there has been plenty of talk & issues with "Low-Speed Pre-Ignition" aka "LSPI" with the 2.3L in the RS.

Hagerty INS - Low Speed Pre Ignition

So I have installed a set of "one-step" cooler plugs & Livernois Motorsports Low-temp thermostat assembly to prevent this in my RS

Now owning the Ranger and having a 10-speed transmission... I've noticed how my truck typically refuses to downshift and wants to "lug the engine" in the same gear.

I typically have to reach down & "manually shift" gears to avoid this.

But when my wife & son drive the Ranger, I notice how my truck runs/responds... worried about having LSPI with my Ranger.

...............................................................................................................................................................

Someone mentioned "lack-of-heat-in-da-cab"...

I have already replaced the windshield last year...
Got a rock chip in 2021 and at some point in January or February of 2022, the family cranked the heat up while warming up the truck with the dial in the red at the three-o-clock position [manual control HVAC]...
Causing a stress crack across the windshield that started at the rock chip.

So now everyone here [family] knows to place the heat/dial in the one-o-clock when warming up the Ranger during the winter time.

At the one-o-clock position, it's hot inside the Ranger where I need to "turn down" the dial...

Try the tow mode when driving around and the lugging will stop.

And I agree more than 1 o clock and I can hear the noises of plastics in the dash start to make noises since at full blast these heaters work so good it’s like a heat gun on low setting ?

 

[4rd SVT]

Do you have the actual part number off the box?

I wanted to order this thermostat or thermostat assembly along with one-step colder plugs for me Ranger.

I tried holding out for Livernois Performance to sell one and since yours works perfect... give in and order one like yours instead.

 

[importfighter01]

Do you have the actual part number off the box?

I wanted to order this thermostat or thermostat assembly along with one-step colder plugs for me Ranger.

I tried holding out for Livernois Performance to sell one and since yours works perfect... give in and order one like yours instead.

Here you go:

https://www.spdperformance.com/170-degree-performance-thermostat-gen2

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