Question for the team

[Trigganometry]

At a 3” lift you’re encroaching on the max angle of front CV’s that will introduce binding and vibration. Most lower transfer case to reduce the angle.

Same goes for center carrier bearing on rear drive shaft. Start adding rear lift and you’ll introduce bind. Additionally, some with stock setups had issues here and needed shims to correct this.

As suggested, lower front an inch and see if that doesn’t resolve the issue. You could possibly be chasing two separate driveline vibrations where each one exacerbates the other.

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[VegasRanger]

At a 3” lift you’re encroaching on the max angle of front CV’s that will introduce binding and vibration. Most lower transfer case to reduce the angle.

Same goes for center carrier bearing on rear drive shaft. Start adding rear lift and you’ll introduce bind. Additionally, some with stock setups had issues here and needed shims to correct this.

As suggested, lower front an inch and see if that doesn’t resolve the issue. You could possibly be chasing two separate driveline vibrations where each one exacerbates the other.

You make a good point Trigg, keep in mind I did add shims to the center carrier but not to fix my road vibrations, but to fix my take off vibration that a lot of people have. It actually did fix this.

When I make a trip to my dads place, I will lower it to the 2.25 setting. I do however still want to try these rear blocks just to see what it does. I can do this quickly in my garage. Like I said before, it if gets worse, I will go back to stock, then wait till I have time to go to my dads place.

I appreciate the feedback gents. This group is awesome. Have learned a lot. I actually don't mind tinkering with my truck, and everything I've done is reversible.

Here's the million dollar question... I have a few friends here locally who have Rangers, both did the exact same lift as me. One has the block on the rear, one doesn't. No complaints of vibrations. Why is theirs OK and mine isn't? Strange indeed.

 

[VegasRanger]

if you will recall, I pointed towards your 3" lift back in your other thread about the problem. others have made note of this as well



You keep claiming that " If the vibration gets worse, I’ll definitely revert to stock "

multiple sets of tires, lifts, driveshaft shimming etc. trying to follow all the threads is getting hard for anyone.

i'd think you should be focussing on the front before you bandaid the rest trying to solve the problem you caused

I did the center carrier shims to fix my shutter at take off that A LOT of ranger owners have, NOT to fix my road vibrations. It actually did fix my that problem. Luckily its about 95 percent gone.

Again, if you find it so hard to "follow" my threads or makes your head hurt, just skip my threads. Not that hard Sir.

Hopefully my pain and sweat will eventually lead to results and will help someone else out if I come up with a fix, which I will fix this. If you look through the threads, you will see there's a few people on here with the same vibration complaints (highway vibrations) as me. I am not the only one.

 

[MinuteMan]

Yeah well I need the blocks in the back anyways. Ever since I did the leveling struts in the front and set it at 3”, the rear sits about about half an inch lower (maybe a tad under 1/2”). What I noticed, and why I think maybe this may help is, is I noticed that whenever I have a load in the back the vibration gets worse. I towed a car and the vibration was terrible. I went shooting yesterday and had the back loaded down with gear and the vibration wasn’t horrible but worse than typical. Even my buddies noticed it.

Well, we like wrenching.

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