Question for the team

VegasRanger

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Just ordered the rear 1” eibach blocks for my truck from you guys. Quick question, what do I do with the blocks on the truck now? Ford has two on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. I am assuming they installed two on the drivers side to compensate for the gas tank? Thank you guys.
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Just ordered the rear 1” eibach blocks for my truck from you guys. Quick question, what do I do with the blocks on the truck now? Ford has two on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. I am assuming they installed two on the drivers side to compensate for the gas tank? Thank you guys.
When you go to do the instal simply install the blocks. Do not remove the other blocks.
 
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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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When you go to do the instal simply install the blocks. Do not remove the other blocks.
Thanks. Will the center pin be long enough to go through the existing blocks though?
 
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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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Can't say but as long as you dont move things too much you should be fine
Actually now that I am thinking about it, as long as I install these blocks below the existing blocks, everything should fit just right.
 


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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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is this the method to fix vibrations? just keep throwing suspension mods at it?

I would say you're either going to magically eliminate any vibration you have, or create new ones you wished would go away.

Any troubleshooting help from the Team from here on out, will need a flow chart to even think about helping you after this.
What’s it to you? The last time you gave me crap because I spent money on the vibration application for my phone. I’m not a quitter and going to keep trying to fix this. Guys like me are the ones who come here later on with fixes so guys like you can implement them.
 

MinuteMan

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What’s it to you? The last time you gave me crap because I spent money on the vibration application for my phone. I’m not a quitter and going to keep trying to fix this. Guys like me are the ones who come here later on with fixes so guys like you can implement them.
You sound like me...

Lol
 
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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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You sound like me...

Lol
Yeah well I need the blocks in the back anyways. Ever since I did the leveling struts in the front and set it at 3”, the rear sits about about half an inch lower (maybe a tad under 1/2”). What I noticed, and why I think maybe this may help is, is I noticed that whenever I have a load in the back the vibration gets worse. I towed a car and the vibration was terrible. I went shooting yesterday and had the back loaded down with gear and the vibration wasn’t horrible but worse than typical. Even my buddies noticed it.
 
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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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nothing to me. i really dont care to be honest.
and i didnt give you crap about the app....the price was too rich for my blood. If that sets you off, good luck, i can step it up if you like and make it worth it.

if you wanna keep sinking money into the problem, thats yours to own later.

and honestly, an internet solution isnt my first go to when i have problems.

In my industry, we have lots of complaints from the operators of the equipment.
90% of the time, the problem goes away when we switch operators...think about that for a second.
You don’t care but see fit to chime into every one of my post and make passive aggressive responses? Check…

Yeah I do come to the internet and ask questions, I’m man enough to seek help and learn from others. I’ve learned a lot this way and I have also helped others as well.

take care
 

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Yeah well I need the blocks in the back anyways. Ever since I did the leveling struts in the front and set it at 3”, the rear sits about about half an inch lower (maybe a tad under 1/2”). What I noticed, and why I think maybe this may help is, is I noticed that whenever I have a load in the back the vibration gets worse. I towed a car and the vibration was terrible. I went shooting yesterday and had the back loaded down with gear and the vibration wasn’t horrible but worse than typical. Even my buddies noticed it.
Your theory might hold water. A better way to test would be to lower the front though.

By throwing new components on the rear there's a chance you'll introduce a new vibration or mask a true fix.

I'd drop the front an inch. If your vibration goes away take it back up and add the 1 inch rear block. If not, keep looking.
 
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VegasRanger

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Your theory might hold water. A better way to test would be to lower the front though.

By throwing new components on the rear there's a chance you'll introduce a new vibration or mask a true fix.

I'd drop the front an inch. If your vibration goes away take it back up and add the 1 inch rear block. If not, keep looking.
Thank you. I was thinking of that as well, but I’d have to wait to go back to my dads place in California. He has a lift there and would make the job a lot easier. Figured this would be a quick job and I need the back lifted anyways. If the vibration gets worse, I’ll definitely revert to stock. Also, I was thinking what if I removed the stock Ford blocks and replaced it with just this 1” block as to not increase the rear too much? Was thinking I could keep one stock block on the drivers side to compensate, since Ford saw necessary to put two on the drivers side. So basically remove the blocks all together on the passenger side and replace with this 1” and on the drivers side remove just one of the Ford blocks and add the 1”. I did a quick test today, added 1/8” shims to teach side, took me 35 minutes. Did a quick test drive and it felt like the vibration was reduced. Took my buddy with me who has been noticing the vibration in my truck and he also confirmed the vibration was reduced.
 

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Thank you. I was thinking of that as well, but I’d have to wait to go back to my dads place in California. He has a lift there and would make the job a lot easier. Figured this would be a quick job and I need the back lifted anyways. If the vibration gets worse, I’ll definitely revert to stock. Also, I was thinking what if I removed the stock Ford blocks and replaced it with just this 1” block as to not increase the rear too much? Was thinking I could keep one stock block on the drivers side to compensate, since Ford saw necessary to put two on the drivers side. So basically remove the blocks all together on the passenger side and replace with this 1” and on the drivers side remove just one of the Ford blocks and add the 1”. I did a quick test today, added 1/8” shims to teach side, took me 35 minutes. Did a quick test drive and it felt like the vibration was reduced. Took my buddy with me who has been noticing the vibration in my truck and he also confirmed the vibration was reduced.
I'd make the smallest change possible till the noise is gone.

Add blocks if you want, but I wouldn't add blocks and remove this but not that on one side and remove this and that on the other.
 
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VegasRanger

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I'd make the smallest change possible till the noise is gone.

Add blocks if you want, but I wouldn't add blocks and remove this but not that on one side and remove this and that on the other.
So add the blocks, but keep the stock blocks is what you’re saying? Just for clarification, I’m pretty certain my problems started when I did the 3” leveling struts. When my truck was new I did a 700 mile rode trip and it road perfect. Not wheels/tires and I’ve switched through 3 sets (have friends with rangers) and same issue. With a load in the back, vibration gets worse
 

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So add the blocks, but keep the stock blocks is what you’re saying?
Yep.

I'd prefer reverting the suspension to stock or lowering first, but barring that, yes.


If your vibration goes away then I'd start playing with the stock blocks to tweak ride height.
 

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I remember your post about the vibration. I only raised the front 2" on my level. I didn't think about it being enough to impact drive line angle an cause a problem with the rear, I stayed away from the 3" lift because I didn't want to put that much angle on the front half shafts.

Hope this does the trick for you. If not are there spacer kits to lower the carrier bearing?
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