Outer CV Joint Overextended. Advise???

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I did the same thing... Separated my cv axle right at the wheel hub inside the boot. I didn't have any experience rebuilding cv axles, but I do now. The snap rings that Ford used are so incredibly cheap they give no resistance at all. I even had a guy in the service department at Ford say he can pull the cv axles apart by hand so you have to be careful. Something sounds a little wrong with that just saying.

I rebuilt my cv's with custom fabricated snap rings, but my truck had a bigger issue. The cv axles weren't fully set from the factory. When I went to install my leveling kit I knew something was wrong and I popped the boot off and it was all messed up with only 240 miles on my truck.... I called the dealer and said this is what it was but because I took the boot off nothing is covered under warranty. I had to use all the tools in my shop to completely repair the grooves and threads of my cv axle. Because it was messed up so bad initially, I have a little slight rubbing inside that boot, but it is currently driving pretty normal.

Does anyone know of any sort of replacement axles or repair kits? I'm on a waiting list for Ford parts... but the dealer says it could be months. I was wondering if theres a CV Axle out there that is the same spindle size where maybe I could just replace the very end of my axle? The one that was damaged from having a cv that wasn't set from the factory.

Important thing that I learned though, if you pop the spindle nut off it is so easy to pop out the strut and you don't put any pressure on your CV's... This is what Ford wants you to do. It is not within range for you to pull the struts out without freeing up the CV axle but none of the lift kits really tell you that. Get yourself a 35 mm and pop the nut off so you don't ruin your new baby and sit here waiting for parts that may take months or years just to feel comfortable taking a corner again...

Attached is a pic of what the CV looked like when I first popped the boot off.

IMG_0344.jpg


58378017614__70984001-3DBC-455E-AABF-6A388EDCABD9.jpg


IMG_0344.jpg
Oh man! I really hate to see and hear that, man! And what a “Catch 22” on the warranty for this situation.

I’d also be interested in knowing if there’s an equivalent part out there. If only out of curiosity. Could be good to know if my own repairs don’t hold up, somehow.

But if there were, I’d think it’d show in Ford’s parts inventory. I mean, an equivalent part would have the same part number, regardless of model.

In the case that there’s no equivalent part, perhaps some custom work?

Have you checked the inner race (and the spines in it), cage, and housing to make sure they’re not damaged?

If it’s just the axle and not the other joint components, maybe a good machinist could cut a new axle end and a good welder could replace the old end with it.

Maybe not worth the trouble. Just spitballing...
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Hi,

My take is that this snapring is there for initial handling and is not in the picture after the shaft is installed. It is just there along for the ride and appears "cheap". I doubt the vehicle was designed with lift kits in mind...I am going to have to check my shop manual for more info on this...Assuming I can get the DVD to work...

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retierd
 
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Hi,

My take is that this snapring is there for initial handling and is not in the picture after the shaft is installed. It is just there along for the ride and appears "cheap". I doubt the vehicle was designed with lift kits in mind...I am going to have to check my shop manual for more info on this...Assuming I can get the DVD to work...

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retierd
You make a good point, Phil. I don’t see where any lateral force would be put on that snap ring, except during handling and installation. If it were, I guess the snap ring would not be the fastener of choice. And if it holds together, but gives when pulled directly, I suppose it’s done its job.

That’s definitely something to keep in mind as we work with and customize theses suspensions, so we don’t unseat the axle.
 

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Hi Folks,

Just as I suspected, the circlip is unnecessary as the shop manual shows it to be discarded.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Halfshaft.jpg
 
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Hi Folks,

Just as I suspected, the circlip is unnecessary as the shop manual shows it to be discarded.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Halfshaft.jpg
Thanks for the graphic, Phil. I now better understand what you’re looking at.

But, that’s not the actual “snap ring” or circlip in question here.

The circlip of interest would be the one inside the outer CV boot that holds the shaft portion of the CV joint inside the race/housing. You can see an example @ 29:10 in the second video I included in post #8. The clip that goes on the end of the shaft and through the race when he’s reassembling the joint.
 


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Would all this be alleviated if the axle was pushed out of the hub prior to extending.
 
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Would all this be alleviated if the axle was pushed out of the hub prior to extending.
I do believe so. I would think that should alleviate any lateral force on the joint and prevent its dislocation.

I’d be interested in getting the perspective of @P. A. Schilke on this, if you have a moment, Phil. For posterity?
 

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I do believe so. I would think that should alleviate any lateral force on the joint and prevent its dislocation.

I’d be interested in getting the perspective of @P. A. Schilke on this, if you have a moment, Phil. For posterity?
Hi,

If you do as suggested, most of the lateral force would be reduced and the CVS should remain as an assembly, resolving the aggravation of having to reassemble a halfshaft. What I worry about is what happens to the halfshaft when a lift kit is installed when the front suspension is at full droup. Will the Rezepa CV stay together? I hope the kit suppliers test for this integrity.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Company Retired
 
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Hi,

If you do as suggested, most of the lateral force would be reduced and the CVS should remain as an assembly, resolving the aggravation of having to reassemble a halfshaft. What I worry about is what happens to the halfshaft when a lift kit is installed when the front suspension is at full droup. Will the Rezepa CV stay together? I hope the kit suppliers test for this integrity.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Company Retired
Thanks for the input, Phil. And you make another good point, too, with regard to the added suspension travel on that joint.

When installing, I didn’t note any lateral stress on the rzeppa joint (once the UCA and knuckle were rejoined at the ball joint, of course). Once the suspension was re-assembled, everything “looked” quite compact with the joint itself, even at full drop (wheels hanging with truck fully suspended on a lift) the boot was not at all extended.

That, and the fact that Icon has a solid reputation for their suspensions, I’m pretty comfortable running their stuff on my baby. I will definitely be taking a close look at those joints the next time I have her up on the lift, though, to see if any changes.
 

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Who hasn't popped out the shaft during a suspension upgrade? Both sides popped out two or three times during my struggle to get the strut off and on:facepalm: Fortunately, I was able to get both side in after a lot of wiggling the massively heavy knuckles:whew:
 
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Would all this be alleviated if the axle was pushed out of the hub prior to extending.
Yes, but most lift kits don't advise this. I followed the lift kit instructions to a T, ended up with my problem. Now, I know how to change all that suspension in my sleep, but learned through my mistake.
 
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Thanks for the graphic, Phil. I now better understand what you’re looking at.

But, that’s not the actual “snap ring” or circlip in question here.

The circlip of interest would be the one inside the outer CV boot that holds the shaft portion of the CV joint inside the race/housing. You can see an example @ 29:10 in the second video I included in post #8. The clip that goes on the end of the shaft and through the race when he’s reassembling the joint.

The issue I'm having is that without the inner snap rings inside the driveshaft properly seating the cv's keep coming out about an eighth of an inch and leaking trans fluid. I remanufactured the ring, used an old one, neither would keep them in. I actually have taken my cv's completely off (took the axles out, fastened the ends so they wont fall out and made it tight so it wont leak) and am just driving a 2wd truck until Ford releases them. And for the record, I had all this trouble with the truck stock. I never did put the lift on. I figured if they wont seat stock they would seat with the lift. I do think people are going to run into long term issues with how finicky this system is.
 
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The issue I'm having is that without the inner snap rings inside the driveshaft properly seating the cv's keep coming out about an eighth of an inch and leaking trans fluid. I remanufactured the ring, used an old one, neither would keep them in. I actually have taken my cv's completely off (took the axles out, fastened the ends so they wont fall out and made it tight so it wont leak) and am just driving a 2wd truck until Ford releases them. And for the record, I had all this trouble with the truck stock. I never did put the lift on. I figured if they wont seat stock they would seat with the lift. I do think people are going to run into long term issues with how finicky this system is.
Man, sorry to hear it. Sucks to not be able to fully use your new ride.

Re-read your first response, and it would seem that @P. A. Schilke was indeed referring to the correct circlip in his mentions. My bad, Phil.

So is it just that the entire half shaft is so wonky now, that it’s not keeping things in line enough to keep itself seated in the x-fer case?

I don’t know how much you 4x4, but I do hope they get you parts soon. Good luck!
 

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Driver side went in perfect but the Passenger side cv joint extended about 2 times before finally getting it back in. I was really close to pulling the boot off. What I did was pull the shaft out, after a few calculated whacks with a mallet It slips out easily and than slammed it vertically, only took two times and it sat right back in there. I can do this is my sleep now, the whole suspension from taking it off to knowing what the torque specs are without looking for it. I noticed different manufacturers have different torque specs for our Ranger. I noticed some don’t even have torque specs, it just says torque to specified range. I want to replace the whole joint and the axle nut the next time I do an oil change. I also used a lift which made things easier. Anyone have the part number for the whole shaft and the axle nut?
 

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Both sides of mines popped out. The first time the gfs dad kept turning in one direction to the point the boot was soo twisted, it looked as it was about to tear. Came so close to yelling at him but couldn’t. Smart guy but lacks common sense
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