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Metal clattering noise when driving on uneven road

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davidtg7123

davidtg7123

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I ended up buying a deep 10mm socket at Home Depot today and giving it a try. It was so much looser than it was supposed to be. Honestly I had to crank the thing to the max just to get it a little tight. After a lot of trial and error (I was testing the force applied with a fishing scale….) happy to report a great improvement. Roads that were clatter city now make just a small noise when I hit a bump instead of loud rhythmic clattering while driving over an uneven surface.
 

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I ended up buying a deep 10mm socket at Home Depot today and giving it a try. It was so much looser than it was supposed to be. Honestly I had to crank the thing to the max just to get it a little tight. After a lot of trial and error (I was testing the force applied with a fishing scale….) happy to report a great improvement. Roads that were clatter city now make just a small noise when I hit a bump instead of loud rhythmic clattering while driving over an uneven surface.
Make sure that you didn't make it too tight as that will wear out the rear pads quickly and reduce gas mileage and is hard on the rotors.

Did you check the tightness of the rear shock absorber hardware? Some here have reported this to be the issue that you are describing.

Another issue has been missing or mis-installed brake pad anti-rattle hardware.
 

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Hey all,

I noticed this sound a few months ago, any time I’m driving on any road that isn’t totally flat I hear some sort of clanging/clattering/metal on metal type noise. I figured it’s the leaf springs or suspension or something, I’ve attached a video where you can hear it clattering as I hit each bump. Any ideas? Braking or turning makes no impact on the sound.

thank you

Did you consider driving it like you were trying to outrun the Angel of Death ???
20190319_123712.webp

FB_IMG_1738825968455.jpg
 


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davidtg7123

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Make sure that you didn't make it too tight as that will wear out the rear pads quickly and reduce gas mileage and is hard on the rotors.

Did you check the tightness of the rear shock absorber hardware? Some here have reported this to be the issue that you are describing.

Another issue has been missing or mis-installed brake pad anti-rattle hardware.
thanks for the comment Bill! I’m thinking this solved it with the main reason being that when I first got this truck, the parking brake was noticeably extremely loose. I’ve driven 3 or 4 cars with a handbrake like that and this one by far was like a limp noodle compared to the others. I figured it was supposed to be like that…. (Don't be too harsh, this is my first truck).

I read that when apply 98N or ~22lb to the brake it should raise between 2-5 clicks to be in spec. When I started it would go up to 9 with under that. Now it goes to around 4.

While I’m gonna consider the matter solved I am going to bring it up during my 60k miles service, which should be in 6-10 weeks.
 

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thanks for the comment Bill! I’m thinking this solved it with the main reason being that when I first got this truck, the parking brake was noticeably extremely loose. I’ve driven 3 or 4 cars with a handbrake like that and this one by far was like a limp noodle compared to the others. I figured it was supposed to be like that…. (Don't be too harsh, this is my first truck).

I read that when apply 98N or ~22lb to the brake it should raise between 2-5 clicks to be in spec. When I started it would go up to 9 with under that. Now it goes to around 4.

While I’m gonna consider the matter solved I am going to bring it up during my 60k miles service, which should be in 6-10 weeks.
You're doing fine. We all have a learning curve with new things. That can be half the fun like getting a new toy. Have fun getting to know your truck better.
 

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You're doing fine. We all have a learning curve with new things. That can be half the fun like getting a new toy. Have fun getting to know your truck better.
Agreed, and just a little bit of country ingenuity. The group of friends I hung out with in school, when we were old enough to drive, half of us had Ford vehicles and half had Chevy or GM vehicles and we came to the conclusion that Fords rattled and Chevys squeak. Lol😁
 

WOADKIL

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In regards to a loose sway bar link, when I replaced the stock links (having plastic parts) with the Mevotech links, I guess I didn't torque them enough. After a hard core off road trip last month around Silverwood Lake, I was hearing something loose over certain bumps.

After a couple weeks of driving around to listen, bouncing on the tailgate while underneath, FINALLY ID'd the bolts on the links. Tightened with Loctite.

What was tricky was the sound never seemed to be from the front, seemed to be from the bed.

Rocking the bed left and right finally heard a clicking from the swaybar.

Did check the spare, removed a rear shock to check it...

Good luck!
 
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davidtg7123

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Update: I think I was just fooling myself because I’ve been noticing it like crazy. I finally did what other suggested and put hands on everything. It’s the front passenger brake pad. It’s loose in the caliper and I can wiggle it around and produce the same noise. Front driver side was tight.

I need to replace something but I’m so confused, can anyone give guidance where to start? I tried looking on this forum, YouTube, even chat gpt (yeah right) but I’m just lost. Apparently $15 fix?
 

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Each calliper has 2 retention clips (might not be correct term) per pad and 2 small springs per pad. If the small springs aren’t attached, the pad will be noticeably loose.

Retention clips snap into the calliper, small springs attach to the pads.

This hardware sometimes comes with the pads or can be bought separately.


Edited with a link…

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...rake+&+wheel+hub,disc+brake+hardware+kit,1736
 
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Ranger Mel

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Give Bearded Ford Tech a look. He works on his own 2019.

 
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davidtg7123

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Give Bearded Ford Tech a look. He works on his own 2019.

Thank you. I’m thinking I’m gonna try replacing the hardware myself since it’ll be a cheap job. I’ll be going for my 60k service soon so they’ll inspect the rotors and pads and see if I messed something up by putting 9,500 miles on the truck with a loose brake
 

Ranger Mel

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Thank you. I’m thinking I’m gonna try replacing the hardware myself since it’ll be a cheap job. I’ll be going for my 60k service soon so they’ll inspect the rotors and pads and see if I messed something up by putting 9,500 miles on the truck with a loose brake
Hope it works out. The video shows a complete remove and replace of all the parts and the clips clearly. Doesn't look bad for someone with decent mechanic skills.
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