Level kit installation

[sootie007]

Quick question....I am pretty experienced with modifications and actually have done a few spring, drum to disk brake conversions on hot rods over the years,,,,B U T I have never fooled with a 4wd vehicle suspension before. I keep reading about guys accidentaly pulling out the front shafts when installing leveling kits and that getting the axle back in is a real bitxx and even a few that had to have it towed to the dealership to be put back together . So how do you avoid accidentaly pulling out the shaft when installing a leveling kit ? I already have my kit, but must admit since its my only vehicle and I need it daily for driving I am pretty nervous about doing this install .

Sponsored

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

most just take the axle nut off and free the axle shaft from the spindle and that usually avoids any problems

 

[EJH]

most just take the axle nut off and free the axle shaft from the spindle and that usually avoids any problems

This is what was suggested to me. This is also documented in Ford's Fox 2.0 install instructions (attached). I have yet to do the front install myself though.

 

[t4thfavor]

This is what was suggested to me. This is also documented in Ford's Fox 2.0 install instructions (attached). I have yet to do the front install myself though.

Can confirm I did it exactly like this with the exception of removing the caliper. I removed the ABS lines from the UCA and one bolt from the inner wheel well to gain some slack on the brake line. No issues whatsoever.

I didn't fully remove the CV axle, just tapped it out enough so that it wouldn't separate but would allow the knuckle to flop over to the caliper side while I put the coilover in.


I just read through the entire document, I wonder how critical the CCM alignment is? Maybe it's something I can do with Forscan...

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Quick question....I am pretty experienced with modifications and actually have done a few spring, drum to disk brake conversions on hot rods over the years,,,,B U T I have never fooled with a 4wd vehicle suspension before. I keep reading about guys accidentaly pulling out the front shafts when installing leveling kits and that getting the axle back in is a real bitxx and even a few that had to have it towed to the dealership to be put back together . So how do you avoid accidentaly pulling out the shaft when installing a leveling kit ? I already have my kit, but must admit since its my only vehicle and I need it daily for driving I am pretty nervous about doing this install .

I’ve completed this install after reading all of the horror stories you’ve read.

I removed the axle nut and tapped the axle inward, out of the knuckle - completely disengaged.

Discard and replace the nuts as indicated in the Ford manual @EJH posted above.

Two tips:

1. Jack up both sides and place truck on jack stands - do not lift one side and install one side at a time or you could pop your anti-sway bar linkage as the anti-sway bar flexes from the angle
2. Remove the calliper and rotor - hang calliper out of the way - this just makes it much easier to manhandle the knuckle, especially when re-assembling. Not necessary, just helpful.

Good Luck.

 

[Snow3d]

Can confirm I did it exactly like this with the exception of removing the caliper. I removed the ABS lines from the UCA and one bolt from the inner wheel well to gain some slack on the brake line. No issues whatsoever.

I didn't fully remove the CV axle, just tapped it out enough so that it wouldn't separate but would allow the knuckle to flop over to the caliper side while I put the coilover in.


I just read through the entire document, I wonder how critical the CCM alignment is? Maybe it's something I can do with Forscan...

FYI, I had the fox setup installed on my truck by the dealer. They had to do both the CCM and front end alignment after the install. I was told that the CCM requires an alignment rack for proper alignment as well. You might be able to do a down a dirty quick fix to get you down the road, but you will definitely want to have the alignment checked at the very least. Don't want to start eating tires from wonky camber or toe angles.

 

[t4thfavor]

FYI, I had the fox setup installed on my truck by the dealer. They had to do both the CCM and front end alignment after the install. I was told that the CCM requires an alignment rack for proper alignment as well. You might be able to do a down a dirty quick fix to get you down the road, but you will definitely want to have the alignment checked at the very least. Don't want to start eating tires from wonky camber or toe angles.

Already had the wheel alignment done, I hadn't noticed any complaints from the RADAR thingamabob though. The alignment rack is so the truck is fully level before performing the calibration.

 

[VoodooRanger]

I attempted my leveling kit this weekend, and I had he unfortunate luck of having both cv shafts slide out on me, as well as having one of the sway bar end-links pop at the sway bar end. If I would've removed the axle nut and disconnected the sway bar at the links, I never would have run into these issues. I had disconnected the sway bar from the chassis mount, but that wasn't enough as i was trying to juggle the spindle in one hand and the strut assembly with the other.

I too am handy with tools. I have worked on numerous cars, but this is my first truck, and 4x4.

 

[t4thfavor]

I attempted my leveling kit this weekend, and I had he unfortunate luck of having both cv shafts slide out on me, as well as having one of the sway bar end-links pop at the sway bar end. If I would've removed the axle nut and disconnected the sway bar at the links, I never would have run into these issues. I had disconnected the sway bar from the chassis mount, but that wasn't enough as i was trying to juggle the spindle in one hand and the strut assembly with the other.

I too am handy with tools. I have worked on numerous cars, but this is my first truck, and 4x4.

Did you have one wheel up at a time? The swaybar is connected to both sides, so if one side is loaded it will put tremendous load on the other side. Definitely easier to just disconnect both sides and reconnect it last.

 

[VoodooRanger]

Did you have one wheel up at a time? The swaybar is connected to both sides, so if one side is loaded it will put tremendous load on the other side. Definitely easier to just disconnect both sides and reconnect it last.

I did. Learned it the hard way.

 

[Snow3d]

Already had the wheel alignment done, I hadn't noticed any complaints from the RADAR thingamabob though. The alignment rack is so the truck is fully level before performing the calibration.

Nice. The tech that did the work on my truck made it sound like the radar thing was really sensitive. Good to know it isn't. Sounds like you're good to go.

 

[sootie007]

I’ve completed this install after reading all of the horror stories you’ve read.

I removed the axle nut and tapped the axle inward, out of the knuckle - completely disengaged."

So Duke ....I have never done this before so pardon my ignorance ........when you reinstall the axle shaft and nut - how exactly do you get the shaft back seated inside the knuckle ? You have to lightly tap it out with a rubber hammer to get it first out of the knuckle correct ? So when it comes time to seat / put it back in how do you do that ? Does it push / wiggle back in or do you have to tap it back in somehow ?

And if I am not mistaken - isnt that axle nut torqued to -----from the Ford instructions "While an assistant applies the brake, install the new wheel hub nut. Torque: 221 lb.ft (300 Nm) " ??? Yikes how do you do that at home ?????

 

[t4thfavor]

Nice. The tech that did the work on my truck made it sound like the radar thing was really sensitive. Good to know it isn't. Sounds like you're good to go.

The ford procedure is to remove half the bumper, replace 12 clips, all to get out two push pins which are completely accessible without disturbing the bumper in any way. If you have a reasonably level piece of ground, and you know how to drive on a piece of plywood, you should be able to do that relearn procedure with forscan.


@sootie007 I weigh about 155, and I have an 18" breaker bar, that's how I got "221" ft/lbs into the axle nut.

It will slide back in fairly easily (at least mine did). Also consider my truck is about as dirty and crusty as a 2 year old truck comes.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Yes, tap it out with a piece of wood, dowel, something not metal. It is splined and will slip back in, then tighten as much as you can by hand. When all is done, have someone press and hold the brake so you can torque to spec. Start at 125 and go up in 25 ft-lb increments.

If you’re on your own, lower the truck until the tire grabs enough to not turn but isn’t supporting the weight of the truck. It’s like having the brake on. Then torque as above.

When the tuck is on the ground, do a final torque check before putting on hub covers.

 

[DHH]

most just take the axle nut off and free the axle shaft from the spindle and that usually avoids any problems

I struggled for hours trying to get the shock out as per Rough Country's instructions and very, very, nearly popped the CV out. Went to the discount tool shop and bought a cheap 35mm socket to remove axle nut and free up the shaft. I was done in no time after that.

It was suggested here and has been in other places, but you don't have to discard the nuts. The nuts are still good, it is just the nylon lock that is bad. A bit of red locktite is all you need.

Sponsored