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Issues Changing Front Brake Hoses

mattymcfli

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Anyone out here have and experience changing out the front brake hoses? I am unable to get the compression fittings from the hard lines to thread back in to the new or old hoses after taking them off. I am changing out the front calipers so I decided to do the hoses while I was down there and it has turned into a big headache. The male threads on the hardline fittings are starting to wear down and look like they are starting to cross thread even when I try to spin them on with my fingers. I am going to get a thread fix kit to see if that will help but if there’s anything obvious that I might be missing please let me know! Im hoping to avoid having to splice in new break lines and fittings.

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airline tech

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Did you disconnect the hose bracket prior to disconnecting the lines?

Might be able to get a die to repair the (threads)
I recall someone else having this issue and we determined - Thread Size & Pitch - in that thread
 
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mattymcfli

mattymcfli

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Did you disconnect the hose bracket prior to disconnecting the lines?

Might be able to get a die to repair the (threads)
I recall someone else having this issue and we determined - Thread Size & Pitch - in that thread
I didn’t take the hose bracket off before disconnecting the hardline but have it off now trying to reconnect it. I was able to determine that it is definitely an M10 1.5 thread from testing different bolts in the hoses but cannot even get a die to thread onto the flare nut on the hardline after using a file thread for 30 minutes to clean it up.
 

airline tech

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I have never used them - but they do make a - Thread Repair (Adaptor) or Kit specifically for brake lines.
The only options are:
Attempt repair or (If there is enough slack in the line) cut off the flare and replace union and flare the tube.
NOTE: I believe that this line is a - BUBBLE FLARE and not a Double Flare, need confirmation
or
Replace with a aftermarket line or OE replacement
I would also - VERIFY correct part numbers of the new hoses.

I think I would try the Thread Repair Kit first or
They also make a - Split Die - Thread Chaser - where you can install it above the damaged threads and turn it CCW.

OE - Brake Lines - The IPC shows (Verify with dealer)
RF - KB3Z-2263-A - $185.45
LF - KB3Z-2264-A - $172.73
Both route from the brake hose (connection) up to the ABS Module

For me - I think
The split die may be the best option and then the brake line thread repair as a second option and weigh options from there.
If after market lines - ensure Bubble Flare ends - (Verify - I am correct about flare type)
Cheaper than OE Lines but you will have to make your own bends
OE will come (pre-shaped)
The most important part is the Flare - this is the sealing point

As far as why I asked - if the hose bracket was disconnected.
When the union backed up the line - it was binding and hit end of travel and when pressure was applied to the union, it rocked sideways.
Its best to leave the hose bracket connected - only until you break it loose, then disconnect the bracket, this way the union is not forced to back up the ridged line
 
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mattymcfli

mattymcfli

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I have never used them - but they do make a - Thread Repair (Adaptor) or Kit specifically for brake lines.
The only options are:
Attempt repair or (If there is enough slack in the line) cut off the flare and replace union and flare the tube.
NOTE: I believe that this line is a - BUBBLE FLARE and not a Double Flare, need confirmation
or
Replace with a aftermarket line or OE replacement
I would also - VERIFY correct part numbers of the new hoses.

I think I would try the Thread Repair Kit first or
They also make a - Split Die - Thread Chaser - where you can install it above the damaged threads and turn it CCW.

OE - Brake Lines - The IPC shows (Verify with dealer)
RF - KB3Z-2263-A - $185.45
LF - KB3Z-2264-A - $172.73
Both route from the brake hose (connection) up to the ABS Module

For me - I think
The split die may be the best option and then the brake line thread repair as a second option and weigh options from there.
If after market lines - ensure Bubble Flare ends - (Verify - I am correct about flare type)
Cheaper than OE Lines but you will have to make your own bends
OE will come (pre-shaped)
The most important part is the Flare - this is the sealing point

As far as why I asked - if the hose bracket was disconnected.
When the union backed up the line - it was binding and hit end of travel and when pressure was applied to the union, it rocked sideways.
Its best to leave the hose bracket connected - only until you break it loose, then disconnect the bracket, this way the union is not forced to back up the ridged line
Update: I got an M10 1.5 Nut for 98 cents and it threaded on for some reason and after screwing it on and off one time the nut would then thread into the hoses. I have no earthly idea why an M10 die wouldn’t thread on but hopefully this might help someone else if they are in this situation!
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