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DPFE sensor- werid

ppfd

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So I tried to get the DPFE sensor off. It was a no go. When it was changed under warranty at the dealer, the clip/clamp for the short hose is turned to where I cant get to it. The long hose, squeezing the clamp, I could not get the hose pulled off. I was able to push that clamp onto the nipple and then pull the hose off.
Is there a set of pliers made for these clamps/clips? I feel like I have seen something that may work?

So here is the weird part, I spent a better part of 2 hours fooling with this. I had to take a break as I parked in the late afternoon sun and it was a killer!
I got everything back together and on a test drive the truck ran like normal? I'm going to make a long drive for a quick overnighter to my moms place. I will report back how it runs.
Maybe disconnecting the power for a while helps?
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RangerBill

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So I tried to get the DPFE sensor off. It was a no go. When it was changed under warranty at the dealer, the clip/clamp for the short hose is turned to where I can get to it. The long hose, squeezing the clamp, I could not get the hose pulled off. I was able to push that clamp onto the nipple and then pull the hose off.
Is there a set of pliers made for these clamps/clips? I feel like I have seen something that may work?

So here is the weird part, I spent a better part of 2 hours fooling with this. I had to take a break as I parked in the late afternoon sun and it was a killer!
I got everything back together and on a test drive the truck ran like normal? I'm going to make a long drive for a quick overnighter to my moms place. I will report back how it runs.
Maybe disconnecting the power for a while helps?
What problem are you trying to solve?
 

Dr. Zaius

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Those spring clamps are a pain to get to on the low side of the sensor, especially when they are turned the wrong way.

I have THIS hose clamp pliers set which works really well, but it's currently showing as unavailable.

There are multiple other vendors available though.

They are really handy because they lock when you get the clamp compressed, making it easy to remove.

I replaced the permanent clamps on the sensor side with fuel injection clamps so the job will be much easier the next time it comes around.
 

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So when you pulled the long tube off - did any moisture drop out of the tube - this is the tube that retains the moisture - I have a detailed - should I say deep detailed system operation of the complete EGR system , I have put together about 80 pages of information , hard to find time to finalize it - very busy with days off - full kitchen remodel, down to bare walls, moving plumbing and adding / moving outlets and adding blocking for the new cabs - hitting various roadblocks to come up with a work around - even finding a nail hole in my sewer vent stack that has been there since the house was built where the cabinet installers hit it - so another sideline that I must fix. I knew there was a reason i put this project off for years
 
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ppfd

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Dennis, those are exactly what I need. The clip is rotated to where I can’t get a good grip with regular needle nose.

I didn't notice any moisture, honestly I was afraid of loosing that little metal clip. But handling the hose, it wasn’t wet.
 


Dr. Zaius

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Dennis, those are exactly what I need. The clip is rotated to where I can’t get a good grip with regular needle nose.

I didn't notice any moisture, honestly I was afraid of loosing that little metal clip. But handling the hose, it wasn’t wet.
They're about $20 for the set but you'll save more than $20 in aggravation.
 

got3fords

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Can't you unbolt the sensor and rotate it to get a better angle on the clamps?
 

Dr. Zaius

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Can't you unbolt the sensor and rotate it to get a better angle on the clamps?
The ones that are a bear are the ones that attach to the engine side.

Not much room to compress them with the firewall, brake booster, wiring harness, vacuum hoses, seemingly everything under the sun in the way.

The ones on the sensor are permanent clamps, like driveshaft boot clamps.

That's why I replaced those with fuel injection clamps.

Now I don't have to deal with the ones down by the firewall.

The next time I change it out will be a <5minute job.
 
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Yeah it's a son of a bitch to get them out, you definitely want some kind of right-angle pliers. Took me about 15 minutes.

Did you take off the bolts at the top securing the sensor? You get more room if it's loose. You can also spin the clamps on the tubes (short or long) to get them in a easier to work position.
 

ScarzRanger21(2.0)

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So when you pulled the long tube off - did any moisture drop out of the tube - this is the tube that retains the moisture - I have a detailed - should I say deep detailed system operation of the complete EGR system , I have put together about 80 pages of information , hard to find time to finalize it - very busy with days off - full kitchen remodel, down to bare walls, moving plumbing and adding / moving outlets and adding blocking for the new cabs - hitting various roadblocks to come up with a work around - even finding a nail hole in my sewer vent stack that has been there since the house was built where the cabinet installers hit it - so another sideline that I must fix. I knew there was a reason i put this project off for years
Just curious, what does moisture in this tube mean? When I replaced mine a while back, there was some liquid that came out. Is that bad…?
 

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Just curious, what does moisture in this tube mean? When I replaced mine a while back, there was some liquid that came out. Is that bad…?
Yes, the water gets onto the circuitry inside the sensor housing and ruins it.
 

dozxab

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Those spring clamps are a pain to get to on the low side of the sensor, especially when they are turned the wrong way.

I have THIS hose clamp pliers set which works really well, but it's currently showing as unavailable.

There are multiple other vendors available though.

They are really handy because they lock when you get the clamp compressed, making it easy to remove.

I replaced the permanent clamps on the sensor side with fuel injection clamps so the job will be much easier the next time it comes around.
SHEEEESH!!! Every time I come to this page, my wallet screams in pain!
 

ScarzRanger21(2.0)

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Yes, the water gets onto the circuitry inside the sensor housing and ruins it.
I should’ve asked a more specific question lol. So when I replaced my sensor with a new one, there was moisture in the tube. Does that moisture mean something else is wrong, like is there something else I should’ve done besides just replacing the sensor? Or is it normal for that to happen over time?
 

RangerBill

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I should’ve asked a more specific question lol. So when I replaced my sensor with a new one, there was moisture in the tube. Does that moisture mean something else is wrong, like is there something else I should’ve done besides just replacing the sensor? Or is it normal for that to happen over time?
It seems to affect some Rangers. So far, I haven't experienced it. There is nothing else to do but blow out the water in the tube and replace the sensor.
 

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Yes it’s normal for moisture to be present in the exhaust stream , however we have inducing factors that will affect how much moisture we actually see - Ambient temps , engine bay temps acting on the EGR tube as the EGR Cooler delivered flow - flows down the tube when the EGR valve is open and the restriction or orifice inside the tube creates a choke point for the moisture and it pushes that moisture into the long tube and up into the sensor, this is why many report moisture only in that single hose and port.

The short cycles of the EGR open and closed generate- temp fluctuations in the tube , this also factors in to - moisture being condensed on the walls of the tube, so longer drives tend to keep a more (EGR) open time frame - stays open for longer periods or more often - thus keeping the tube hotter - this evaporates the moisture or at least helps reduce the amount of build up in the tube - I spent a few days on this alone as to what factors generate the moisture in the sensor and this is what I concluded

So hot EGR flow , flow stops and engine bay plus ambient air around the tube - drops the temp of the tube - condensation is generated on the walls of the tube.
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