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Coolant leak issue

andros

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Was driving yesterday when suddenly my temp gage was maxed out but then quickly dropped back to normal for the 5 minutes to where I was going. A couple hours later on my way home the same thing happened and the engine started chugging along nice and slow. When I got home my coolant was very low, I topped it up with distilled water and have done a couple quick drives and the coolant level keeps going down. I don't see a leak anywhere and checked the oil and it looks fine.

Are there any hard to reach or hard to see places to check that may be the culprit?
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airline tech

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If no external leaks, then there are 3 possible points of loss (leaking or pressure loss)
Head Gasket - EGR Cooler or Bad Reservoir Cap.
All 3 of the above are common.
Boil away could be thermostat or a flow issue.
 
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andros

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The cap look like it's in good condition, any advice on checking the other two?
 

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To isolate it down as it needs determined is it a leak or is it boiling away?
Stuck or sticking closed Thermostat, Cooling Fan not operating properly, flow issue through radiator etc.

It appears to have a leak by your description, I would start with a Pressure Test on the system (including the cap) as a bad cap (not holding 21 PSI) can cause a improper flow and coolant loss.

If no evidence of coolant in the oil or transmission fluid then this rules out the (Oil Coolers)
and with no visible leaks that leaves 2 known sources (Head Gasket or EGR Cooler)
the issue with both of these is that the leak can be so small, it may not show with a pressure test of the system.

It may show with a combustion leak tester (fluid test) and will also show as a (White Smoke) from the exhaust and if bad enough you may smell the sweet coolant.

A way to isolate Head Gasket vs EGR Cooler would be pull the DPFE Sensor and check it for coolant (via smell) or pull the EGR Valve and inspect the EGR Port for coolant.
or
Pressurize the cooling system and:
Pull spark plugs and Borescope the cylinders - if coolant is entering the cylinders you will see it sitting on top of the piston and the walls will be wet.
Next would be to determine where it is entering from (Head Gasket or Intake Valves)
With the system pressurized you (may) be able to see coolant dripping down from the head gasket and will most likely only be on one cylinder, vs EGR Cooler will most likely show coolant in all cylinders.

I am highlighting these 2 sources as they are known areas for leaks with no visible leaks externally.
Another way to isolate is - with a scan tool, check for codes, more importantly which cylinder (if it did) picked up a misfire as that could be a sign of the leaking cylinder.
 
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Rinn69

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I had the same issue, but it was a cracked coolant tank. I cleaned the area under the tank and the tank itself, took it for a drive up to operating temp for 20-30 min, then checked the areas I cleaned. Mine cracked on the underside near the nipple. Replaced the tank and cap (just in case), refilled and all was good. You can also add some ultraviolet dye to the coolant and use a black light to locate leaks.

EDIT: There is a procedure to "burp" the cooling system here : https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/coolant-loss-maybe-mystery.31251/post-706962
 
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Grandaccess

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I had something like that happen 2 years ago, tuned out to be a tiny pin hole in the lower Rad hose under the heat and pressure it would spray out....
you would not believe how much that F***ING hose cost!

Hose_Leak.webp
 
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andros

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Well finally got under the truck today and pulled the skid plate off, looks like it's leaking at the radiator hose connection. Not sure if I should replace the clamp or the entire hose assembly.
1000027488.webp
 
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andros

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Aaand the clamp broke wtf, you can even see it in the picture. Going to attempt to pry it with something and use a dremel to cut it because it's on there tight
 

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airline tech

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You are actually at a crossroad and should take this opportunity to drain & fill with fresh coolant due to the coolants age and now it’s improperly mixed - added water (amount?)
 

Muscleford

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You have quite a bit of rust there on the frame. Looks like the clamp failed because it rusted out.
 

rang19ca

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I think the clamp comes attached to the hose, so it might be hard to separate.
 
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andros

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Yeah definitely going to put new coolant in, it's almost all distilled water at this point.

Frame is super rusty, plan to hit as much as I can with a wire brush and fluid film.

Ooff if the clamp is connected that's gonna be annoying, I can get part of it lifted so we'll see. Started storming pretty hard today so will try to get back at it tomorrow.
 
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andros

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1000027546.webp
Managed to sneak a dremel in there with a relief cut and and pryed the rest off. Got a new clamp from autozone that seems like the same size 38mm (though probably about time I bought some calipers), it definitely feels a little less heavy duty than the stock one but hopefully it lasts.

New coolant in, ran the bleed cycle and a quick test run on the highway, everything looking and running smoothly.
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