Awesome right upNot sure is the same from the US version, but both are tied together.
Since the BCM and the Brake Fluid Level switch have been replaced.
I would check the Park Brake Position Switch, easy check disconnect the connector on it and if light goes out - (Replace the Park Brake Position Switch)
It takes a ground to trip the light on the dash, if switch is faulty (not removing the ground when the parking brake is RELEASED) the light will stay on and the system reads this as the parking brake is applied,
I would have to dig some, but from a communication standpoint it may explain your Limp Mode issue. (The system MAY think you are in Park and Parking Brake is Applied), this would most likely tie into the ABS Module communication.
There is no Ground Point for the Park Brake Switch, the switch itself provides the ground, it's just a (On/Off) switch and has a single wire going to the BCM.
If light stays on - You possibly have a short to ground in the wire going to it, wire touching metal and providing the ground.
Park Brake Switch at the end of the Park Brake Lever, you may try cleaning it plus ensure it is not sticking.
or using a scan tool, monitor Park Brake Switch (PID) and Engage and Disengage the parking brake the PID should follow and match your actions.
other possibles that factor in:
Wiring to the Brake Fluid Level, sensor, but I would do a quick check of the Ground Point for the Brake Fluid Level Sensor - G-!!4
This Ground point is also for the Horn and Hood Ajar Switch, so I would see if horn works and check for the Hood Ajar message when the hood is opened.
Other Possibles.
ABS - Module, this module ties into the Park Brake (Indicator)
IPC- The module could have a malfunction that is causing the light to stay on.
I would say that this is most likely a wiring issue or the Parking Brake switch and being that they are shot gunning parts at it, leads me to believe they are not performing the necessary wiring checks to properly diagnose it.
You should be getting a code for this on the scan tool, and it should pick up a fault with the IPC, BCM or ABS - Self Tests - This may help pinpoint it down to a specific circuit,
My hunch from the info you posted, I would look at the Park Brake Switch as my first suspect.
I, for one, appreciate your efforts and willingness to share your knowledge.Not sure is the same from the US version, but both are tied together.
Since the BCM and the Brake Fluid Level switch have been replaced.
I would check the Park Brake Position Switch, easy check disconnect the connector on it and if light goes out - (Replace the Park Brake Position Switch)
It takes a ground to trip the light on the dash, if switch is faulty (not removing the ground when the parking brake is RELEASED) the light will stay on and the system reads this as the parking brake is applied,
I would have to dig some, but from a communication standpoint it may explain your Limp Mode issue. (The system MAY think you are in Park and Parking Brake is Applied), this would most likely tie into the ABS Module communication.
There is no Ground Point for the Park Brake Switch, the switch itself provides the ground, it's just a (On/Off) switch and has a single wire going to the BCM.
If light stays on - You possibly have a short to ground in the wire going to it, wire touching metal and providing the ground.
Park Brake Switch at the end of the Park Brake Lever, you may try cleaning it plus ensure it is not sticking.
or using a scan tool, monitor Park Brake Switch (PID) and Engage and Disengage the parking brake the PID should follow and match your actions.
other possibles that factor in:
Wiring to the Brake Fluid Level, sensor, but I would do a quick check of the Ground Point for the Brake Fluid Level Sensor - G-!!4
This Ground point is also for the Horn and Hood Ajar Switch, so I would see if horn works and check for the Hood Ajar message when the hood is opened.
Other Possibles.
ABS - Module, this module ties into the Park Brake (Indicator)
IPC- The module could have a malfunction that is causing the light to stay on.
I would say that this is most likely a wiring issue or the Parking Brake switch and being that they are shot gunning parts at it, leads me to believe they are not performing the necessary wiring checks to properly diagnose it.
You should be getting a code for this on the scan tool, and it should pick up a fault with the IPC, BCM or ABS - Self Tests - This may help pinpoint it down to a specific circuit,
My hunch from the info you posted, I would look at the Park Brake Switch as my first suspect.
It wasn’t me, I was thanking the gent who did that detailed write up
