Bug/Rock Deflector

Stevo56

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Yes they are, I just didn’t use them because the deflector seems so stiff that even when I push on it, it doesn’t make contact. I have been checking it after every highway trip to see if it seems like it maybe touching. I saved the bumpers in case I need them
Me, too. It seems stiff enough to not need the bumpers. Will keep a close watch for awhile.
 

Silverfox

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I didn’t use them either. Not sure why the instructions tell you to put them on the hood when I’m assuming you could stick them to the backside of the deflector.
 

SuperBford

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I didn’t use them either. Not sure why the instructions tell you to put them on the hood when I’m assuming you could stick them to the backside of the deflector.

That Is what I did.. placed em on the back.... though I'm doubtful there would ever be enough flex for it to actually touch the hood of the truck.
 

SILK

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This is the one that looks the best to me. But I am absolutely not crazy about sticking 3m tape on my paint permanently. I hope to keep this thing until it dies so I'm sure in 12 years I will be furious with myself for applying this thing right to the paint. Considering getting a clear bra put on underneath. My local shop only does the entire hood and it's pricey! I'll have to ask around.

EDIT: I'm also concerned with not being able to clean the paint underneath this.
 


peterson1604

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This is the one that looks the best to me. But I am absolutely not crazy about sticking 3m tape on my paint permanently. I hope to keep this thing until it dies so I'm sure in 12 years I will be furious with myself for applying this thing right to the paint. Considering getting a clear bra put on underneath. My local shop only does the entire hood and it's pricey! I'll have to ask around.

EDIT: I'm also concerned with not being able to clean the paint underneath this.
The 3M tape seals very well so nothing can get under the shield. The tape will come off easily with an eraser wheel which is what we use all the time to remove 3M tape at body shops. If needed a quick buff will take care of any issues. I'd rather have a few scratches to buff out than rock chips on the leading edge of my hood.

16038383126998008007281227056578.jpg


16038383501498673866998727889333.jpg


16038383725254542014726563152746.jpg
 

SILK

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The 3M tape seals very well so nothing can get under the shield. The tape will come off easily with an eraser wheel which is what we use all the time to remove 3M tape at body shops. If needed a quick buff will take care of any issues. I'd rather have a few scratches to buff out than rock chips on the leading edge of my hood.

16038383126998008007281227056578.jpg


16038383501498673866998727889333.jpg


16038383725254542014726563152746.jpg
Water and dirt will get anywhere, including under this deflector. I agree that the balance between the giant forward facing flat area on these hoods getting chipped all to hell is probably worse than having some future paint issues in that area. I'm going to see if a local clear bra shop will do just the front 4-6" of the hood. I got a quote for $300 for this yesterday. Seems kind of steep. Going to keep shopping around.

Anyone tried having their shield painted the magnetic color? Wonder how much that would run.
 

peterson1604

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Water and dirt will get anywhere, including under this deflector. I agree that the balance between the giant forward facing flat area on these hoods getting chipped all to hell is probably worse than having some future paint issues in that area. I'm going to see if a local clear bra shop will do just the front 4-6" of the hood. I got a quote for $300 for this yesterday. Seems kind of steep. Going to keep shopping around.

Anyone tried having their shield painted the magnetic color? Wonder how much that would run.
You do realize 99% of door moldings are taped on with 3M and never have any issues? Having managed three body shops for the past 15 years I've never seen an issue with 3M tape leaving marks.
 

Ranger_Rocks

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I'm going to see if a local clear bra shop will do just the front 4-6" of the hood. I got a quote for $300 for this yesterday. Seems kind of steep. Going to keep shopping around.
Shop my dealer used put film 18" back from the front edge of my hood.
 

Ranger_Rocks

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My film package covered:

Full front end (incl. grill, headlamps, bumper, fenders, etc.)
A Pillars
Mirror caps
Rockers
Side panels (full length up to first fold)

I paid $1300 which at the time seemed expensive. This included dealer markup. Film shop did a really nice job. Each piece is cut perfectly and is invisible unless you know where to look for an edge.

Prior to ordering my Ranger, I had read about Ranger paint concerns. I'm hoping the combination of Tri-coat paint and film protection will prevent damage.
 

peterson1604

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My film package covered:

Full front end (incl. grill, headlamps, bumper, fenders, etc.)
A Pillars
Mirror caps
Rockers
Side panels (full length up to first fold)

I paid $1300 which at the time seemed expensive. This included dealer markup. Film shop did a really nice job. Each piece is cut perfectly and is invisible unless you know where to look for an edge.

Prior to ordering my Ranger, I had read about Ranger paint concerns. I'm hoping the combination of Tri-coat paint and film protection will prevent damage.
So tri-coat paint has nothing to do with the clearcoat that protects your paint. It's simply a basecoat with another mid coat on top to give it the deeper and more translucent look. The clearcoat is the same thickness regardless if it's a regular color or tri-coat. One sure thing is that if your tri-coat needs painting it'll cost you a lot more and due to the effect they have to blend out further to ensure accurate color match. More paint and more labor equals more money. ?

Don't even get me going on the new 4 stage paint that Mazda, Nissan and a few others have come out with lately!
 

Msfitoy

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