Aftermarket crash bars or just cut out the oems?

[rang19ca]

As stated above, I have the ReadyLIFT bars in the front location and the Ford OEM bars in the rear. I feel better about this than going without any in front.

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[HalfBlindGuy]

Looking at the ReadyLIFT Anti-Intrusion Beams since I got some 285/70/R17 wheels and tires to put on when off roading. New tires and gas are too expensive to keep on full time. I've got the Fox 2.0 lift/level, still preset to the 2" lift. ReadyLIFT says with their 3" lift in the description.

Anyone know I'll still have rubbing with the high clearance bars? I'd prefer not to have to also take off and reinstall the OEM bars whenever I put on my rangers dancing shoes.

 

[JoeDop1]

Looking at the ReadyLIFT Anti-Intrusion Beams since I got some 285/70/R17 wheels and tires to put on when off roading. New tires and gas are too expensive to keep on full time. I've got the Fox 2.0 lift/level, still preset to the 2" lift. ReadyLIFT says with their 3" lift in the description.

Anyone know I'll still have rubbing with the high clearance bars? I'd prefer not to have to also take off and reinstall the OEM bars whenever I put on my rangers dancing shoes.

I have the Fox 2.0 level kit, preset to 2", Ready Lift anti- intrusion bars with 285/70/R17 tires on +25 offset wheels. My tires rub the thick felt "sound proofing" only when wheels are cocked fully.

 

[HalfBlindGuy]

I have the Fox 2.0 level kit, preset to 2", Ready Lift anti- intrusion bars with 285/70/R17 tires on +25 offset wheels. My tires rub the thick felt "sound proofing" only when wheels are cocked fully.

Thank you, I really appreciate your response.

 

[idahofarmboy]

I have the Fox 2.0 level kit, preset to 2", Ready Lift anti- intrusion bars with 285/70/R17 tires on +25 offset wheels. My tires rub the thick felt "sound proofing" only when wheels are cocked fully.

Dang it! That's my exact setup and I was hoping for no rubbing. Now I'm back to considering 275 70 r17 again.

 

[Msfitoy]

Watch a crash test video of the ranger and see where the tire goes. I like my legs, just my opinion. I would have something there to stop it.

Not if you do this...

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Not if you do this...

Would like to see a video of that with the air bags deploying

 

[ScarzRanger21]

Just looking for opinions on which way to go. I am running a BDS 2inch level on 265/70r17 tires and I just installed Vision 17x9 +12 wheels which came to me free. So now I get a little bit of a rub on a full lock in reverse. I tried to adjust the front bars out but just not quite enough to clear and since I do off road it I would like it to clear. I have no problems ordering a set of aftermarket bars, the BDS set is can get by the weekend it looks like just looking for some input on is it worth it really. $15 for a diablo sawzall blade vs $90 for the bar kit, and I could use a fresh blade.

I cut mine out with the intention of replacing them, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. I believe someone here told me that Readylift makes the highest clearance aftermarket crash bars for our trucks. Can’t remember for sure. They’re there for a reason though. I would definitely reinstall them if you do choose to remove the originals.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

I cut mine out with the intention of replacing them, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. I believe someone here told me that Readylift makes the highest clearance aftermarket crash bars for our trucks. Can’t remember for sure. They’re there for a reason though. I would definitely reinstall them if you do choose to remove the originals.

Also, I would use a grinder if you can instead of a sawzall. Much quicker and you won’t burn through 10 blades and 4 batteries. Speaking from experience lol

 

[idahofarmboy]

I just did this last week and totally agree with using the grinder with a cutting wheel. I was able to get through about 75% of the bar with the grinder and then had to do the rest with the sawsall on the front.
On the back I made a wedge shaped cut on the front of the bar with the grinder which allowed me to bend it/curl it forward facilitating easy removal without needing the sawsall.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

I just did this last week and totally agree with using the grinder with a cutting wheel. I was able to get through about 75% of the bar with the grinder and then had to do the rest with the sawsall on the front.
On the back I made a wedge shaped cut on the front of the bar with the grinder which allowed me to bend it/curl it forward facilitating easy removal without needing the sawsall.

That’s exactly what I did. Getting the new ones back in might be a pain in the ass but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. Can’t do anything with the ranger right now anyway. Still waiting for it to come back from the body shop after a run-in with a boulder a couple weeks ago lol

 

[Superspirit]

I personally find it easier to take a few more bolts lose and slide the originals out easy peasy. And can re install if ever wanting to. The directions have been posted several times. There is no need in all the work it takes to cut them.

 

[idahofarmboy]

I personally find it easier to take a few more bolts lose and slide the originals out easy peasy. And can re install if ever wanting to. The directions have been posted several times. There is no need in all the work it takes to cut them.

You are correct, the originals are now trash and I can never use them again.
However, the grinder cuts so fast I don't think I could have had the skid plate off to even get to the bumper bolts by the time I was done.

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