ADV fiberglass install

[Allen_rubin]

From ADV Website and APG Website, the @APG is actually half an inch wider

APG:
- Carbon Fiber Driver Side Front Fender (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Passenger Side Front Fender (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Driver Side Bedside (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Passenger Side Bedside (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)

ADV:
4.5" Flare 2" Rise

Yea I meant larger then the fiber werx lol

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[Superdannyboy]

From ADV Website and APG Website, the @APG is actually half an inch wider

APG:
- Carbon Fiber Driver Side Front Fender (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Passenger Side Front Fender (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Driver Side Bedside (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)
- Carbon Fiber Passenger Side Bedside (5” Flare & 1.5” Rise)

ADV:
4.5" Flare 2" Rise

Allen has fiberwerx which are 3.5" wider and I think he was saying that ADV is harder being 4.5" wider.

For me the gas pump reaches just enough to get inside the hose lol

 

[Superdannyboy]

So with the bedsides being 4.5" wider I went ahead and ordered custom adapters that are machined to the specs that I entered. They cost 105 each plus 25 shipping. You might have heard of BORA (Bulletproof Off-Road Adapter), well this is the company that makes them. You can go to motorsport-tech.com to find them. Since I have long travel up front I went with 2 adapters for the rear that are 77mm (3.03") thick. I have Method wheels with a bore diameter of 106mm and the hub diameter of the truck is 93mm. I am currently using wheel rings which mount the wheels hub centrically and eliminate the vibration that comes from different size of the hub and bore. Cool feature of custom adapters is that you can choose to be hub centric to the truck and wheel centric to the wheel by entering both diameters. I'll post pics when installed, they should take 3-4 weeks to make and I don't want to pay the $100 rush fee lol

 

[Polaris130]

Finally got my fenders installed and threw the bed on. Got the 17 KMC Tank bead locks and Yokohamas installed. This is the poke on -38 offset. Any tips for painting? Scuff the white, primer then sand then paint?

 

[Superdannyboy]

Finally got my fenders installed and threw the bed on. Got the 17 KMC Tank bead locks and Yokohamas installed. This is the poke on -38 offset. Any tips for painting? Scuff the white, primer then sand then paint?

-38 looks great!
As far as paint, I have no idea I have an appointment next week to get the bedsides painted.

 

[speedczar]

Finally got my fenders installed and threw the bed on. Got the 17 KMC Tank bead locks and Yokohamas installed. This is the poke on -38 offset. Any tips for painting? Scuff the white, primer then sand then paint?

I like -38 offset wheels with your set up. Nice truck.

 

[Steve23]

So I feel like this is probably too much for me to DIY. What kind of shops would you guys suggest? Just body shops? Idk what kind of a shop would be cool with putting on aftermarket flares/bedsides and painting them

 

[Superdannyboy]

So I feel like this is probably too much for me to DIY. What kind of shops would you guys suggest? Just body shops? Idk what kind of a shop would be cool with putting on aftermarket flares/bedsides and painting them

Off road shop. I was quoted 4k. 2k in labor and 2k in paint. Hence, my diy project lol. I'm dropping off my bedsides to get painted right now.

 

[Steve23]

Off road shop. I was quoted 4k. 2k in labor and 2k in paint. Hence, my diy project lol. I'm dropping off my bedsides to get painted right now.

Dam that's a quite a bit. Its moreso the sanding that concerns me. I know how to bolt shit together but I'd be worried of sanding too much and messing them up.

 

[Superdannyboy]

Dam that's a quite a bit. Its moreso the sanding that concerns me. I know how to bolt shit together but I'd be worried of sanding too much and messing them up.

Yes it is pricey. But it is definitely a lot of work.

 

[Trigganometry]

Yes it is pricey. But it is definitely a lot of work.

Out of curiosity was it mandatory to hack off the outer skin of the bed to install the new panels? They don’t fit over the stock sides of the bed?

 

[Steve23]

Yes it is pricey. But it is definitely a lot of work.

But dam are they sexy though lol

 

[Superdannyboy]

But dam are they sexy though lol

Just to confirm, the 2k in labor I was talking about was to take off the oem fenders, valence, and bedsides, and to put on the fiberglass fenders, valence, and bedsides.
The 2k in paint that I mentioned, was a little misleading, my bad. What I meant by 2k in paint was the sanding and painting altogether.

So I did all of the removing/adding of the of the parts and paid 2k for someone to sand them and paint them.

Just wanted to clear that up since it might have been misleading.

 

[Superdannyboy]

Out of curiosity was it mandatory to hack off the outer skin of the bed to install the new panels? They don’t fit over the stock sides of the bed?

So the picture I posted above shows the bed with the oem bedsides removed right, you already know this. The fiberglass fits on like a glove, it wraps around by the tailgate and then I used a flat head to pry it on by the cab and when it popped on I couldn't believe the fit, I could literally drive around without putting any adhesive and/or bolts. I did add bolts because I eventually want to remove the bed and still use the bedsides once my welding skills are worthy. To answer your question, yes the bedsides must be removed.

See the process of the fiberglass is to first laser scan the oem bedsides to create a polygonal model. They use the model for certain dimensions and shape, so if you don't remove the oem bedsides you are essentially trying to put the fiberglass bedsides in the same space occupied by the oem bedsides. It's really cool because you can see on the fiberglass, the same body lines and shape as the oem bedsides, even down to holes that are in the exact location. Of course, on the bedsides there are no holes, they look more or less like a dip and you drill out your holes where you want. Only holes I drilled on the bedsides were to put bolts through the bedside and bed to hold it together. The best way is to use and adhesive, such as let's say epoxy, to hold them better so that cracks don't form.

 

[Steve23]

Just to confirm, the 2k in labor I was talking about was to take off the oem fenders, valence, and bedsides, and to put on the fiberglass fenders, valence, and bedsides.
The 2k in paint that I mentioned, was a little misleading, my bad. What I meant by 2k in paint was the sanding and painting altogether.

So I did all of the removing/adding of the of the parts and paid 2k for someone to sand them and paint them.

Just wanted to clear that up since it might have been misleading.

hmmmm well I might be able to do that then myself. I can deal with paying someone to sand and paint. My wallet might hate you for clearing that up...

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