12v outlet cuts out after 10min drive

[Redsiem199]

Starting a week ago, I noticed the 12v outlet on the driver's side had stopped working while I was driving around some state parks, the passenger side remained functional. On the left I keep my radar detector hooked up and on the right is my dash camera. After letting the car sit for a few minutes, I came back and it was working again. Didn't think much of it, but after driving for a while, it cut back out. On my 2 hour drive home, the outlet did not come back on, however, once I got home and parked, I went inside to get a volt meter and by the time I came back it had started working again. Over the past week I have tried a few things to narrow down some symptoms, I found that when it is not working;
-the ground is good
-no power from socket
-replacing/swapping/changing the fuse has no effect and the fuses do not blow
-it will cut out regardless of what is plugged in, swapped radar and camera and same socket stops working
-it will cut out if nothing is plugged in
-it takes about 10-11 minutes for it to cut out
-the passenger side outlet remains functional
-it will cut out on smooth roads
-nothing else seems to be affected
-will work initially every drive to and from work and when picking up lunch
2019 XLT Super Crew 302a, 42,000mi, stock except for "Ford" trailer brake controller and LED headlight bulbs installed 2 years ago.
Does anyone have any recommendations on things to try that hopefully don't involve loading the parts cannon?
-Mike

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[P. A. Schilke]

Starting a week ago, I noticed the 12v outlet on the driver's side had stopped working while I was driving around some state parks, the passenger side remained functional. On the left I keep my radar detector hooked up and on the right is my dash camera. After letting the car sit for a few minutes, I came back and it was working again. Didn't think much of it, but after driving for a while, it cut back out. On my 2 hour drive home, the outlet did not come back on, however, once I got home and parked, I went inside to get a volt meter and by the time I came back it had started working again. Over the past week I have tried a few things to narrow down some symptoms, I found that when it is not working;
-the ground is good
-no power from socket
-replacing/swapping/changing the fuse has no effect and the fuses do not blow
-it will cut out regardless of what is plugged in, swapped radar and camera and same socket stops working
-it will cut out if nothing is plugged in
-it takes about 10-11 minutes for it to cut out
-the passenger side outlet remains functional
-it will cut out on smooth roads
-nothing else seems to be affected
-will work initially every drive to and from work and when picking up lunch
2019 XLT Super Crew 302a, 42,000mi, stock except for "Ford" trailer brake controller and LED headlight bulbs installed 2 years ago.
Does anyone have any recommendations on things to try that hopefully don't involve loading the parts cannon?
-Mike

Hi Redsiem199

I am somewhat baffled, but suspect the socket is bad...how hard would it be to swap the right and left sockets and see if the problem goes with the socket or stays with the circuit?

best,
Phil

 

[JDowns]

Have you done any Forscan Mods?

It sounds like either the Power Point Timer is kicking in even if the vehicle is running.

Or

The BCM has FET's that control the circuits. If a fault is detected (too much draw, short, etc) then the BCM disables the circuit and records a fault. Too many faults and the circuit is permanently disabled until it can be serviced.

Phil's idea of swapping the sockets is perfect for helping to diagnose. If the fault scenario follows the socket then you know its a faulty socket. If not then its probably BCM related.

Odd that the fault follows a prescribed time frame. But Phil's idea would be a logical first step.

Here's to hoping it's just a bad socket.

 

[Redsiem199]

Hi Redsiem199

I am somewhat baffled, but suspect the socket is bad...how hard would it be to swap the right and left sockets and see if the problem goes with the socket or stays with the circuit?

best,
Phil

Doesn't seem to be too terribly difficult, I'll give that a shot, thanks Phil.
-Mike

 

[Redsiem199]

Have you done any Forscan Mods?

It sounds like either the Power Point Timer is kicking in even if the vehicle is running.

Or

The BCM has FET's that control the circuits. If a fault is detected (too much draw, short, etc) then the BCM disables the circuit and records a fault. Too many faults and the circuit is permanently disabled until it can be serviced.

Phil's idea of swapping the sockets is perfect for helping to diagnose. If the fault scenario follows the socket then you know its a faulty socket. If not then its probably BCM related.

Odd that the fault follows a prescribed time frame. But Phil's idea would be a logical first step.

Here's to hoping it's just a bad socket.

Bambi mode only, done well over a year ago, has not been touched since.
-Mike

 

[Redsiem199]

Status update: removed outlets from console, swapped to opposite sides, on the drive home and on the drive to work this morning, both outlets working fine now. However, I have not reassembled the console yet and I know as soon as I do, they will stop working again.

 

[Dahveed]

Status update: removed outlets from console, swapped to opposite sides, on the drive home and on the drive to work this morning, both outlets working fine now. However, I have not reassembled the console yet and I know as soon as I do, they will stop working again.

May have been a loose connection that was generating heat? Then, after too much resistance built up in the circuit, the BCM shut it down.

 

[rydfree]

Status update: removed outlets from console, swapped to opposite sides, on the drive home and on the drive to work this morning, both outlets working fine now. However, I have not reassembled the console yet and I know as soon as I do, they will stop working again.

I hate electrical issues like this. The wife's GLK radio works perfectly fine the 1st time it is cut on for the day but if you switch it off it pops thru the speakers like there is a short somewhere. You can swich it on and drive 400 miles and it works fine until you cut the ignition or radio off. Even if you switch the radio on and immediately turn it or the ignition off it will not work again until the next day. It's so predictable but no luck pinpointing the problem so far ?

 

[JDowns]

Status update: removed outlets from console, swapped to opposite sides, on the drive home and on the drive to work this morning, both outlets working fine now. However, I have not reassembled the console yet and I know as soon as I do, they will stop working again.

Even though the wires are covered in glue foam. Try and inspect that there are no kinks. Or the plug ends are not fouled. I wonder if the foam was too close to the leads and was conducting small amounts of current. Worth a look around. Sounds like just moving things caused a fix.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Status update: removed outlets from console, swapped to opposite sides, on the drive home and on the drive to work this morning, both outlets working fine now. However, I have not reassembled the console yet and I know as soon as I do, they will stop working again.

Hi Red,,,

Okay...you have removed the electrical circuits from the equasion and now can focus on a connector or socket. Well done!

Best,
Phil

 

[Redsiem199]

Status update: after a week or so, was able to see power issues starting on second circuit, same outlet. With my radar detector plugged in and being held together with the socket, I was able to shake the socket and watch the radar detector blink and beep like it wanted to start a dance party. Called up my local dealer and they had the socket in stock, usually a sign that they fail often. Replaced faulty socket but left disassembled for another day to be sure. Have since reassembled and have not had any new issues to report.

Thank-you everyone for your inputs.
-Mike

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