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Did you perform the BMS Reset? I do not believe the battery was bad, note just after shutting down it's normal to see 12.6 Volts - once all the modules go to sleep - Normal = 12.1 Volts. (Average) This is what I call - Wake-Up Voltage - this reading is taken from opening the door, plugging in...

Here are the As-Built Addresses for the BMS, I only included the ones related to charging and battery. I am curious what the ECO & Hardware PIN Config will do as well as the BMS Feature Max (Counts) Which this is a prime example (BMS Max Configure) - Its hard-to-find specific information on what...

The manuals have been updated to remove the pulley that is blocking the Idler pulley from coming off.

I will say that I just completed a - Test Drive with my scanner hooked up: The drive was an in-town drive to dinner and back - 20-Min each way I noted: Started the SOC @ 88% and it climbed to 90% and at 90% Amps went to 0 - There Started the SOC @ 89% and it stayed there and charging amps was 3...

True - but with a BMS Reset - it resets the battery age, so as far as the system knows it's a new battery. Yes, the PCM is using the IAT as a ref in addition to the BMS Sensor and it may also be using AMB as well. The point is: I still think that (Temps) play a role in the algorithm even with...

It's going to be under the BCM - Battery PIDs - if the tool will read it, the PID is there but it depends on the tool if it will read the PID

First - Even though your PID for SOC (Scan Gauge) may call it SOC, if you look at the related video for the BMS Sensor - The Ford PID = Estimated SOC, if I recall when I played with FDRS this is the only PID. Note: With the BMS sensor disconnected and a BMS Reset performed the SOC defaulted to...

I will highlight this from my above post - this may explain why the SOC drifts while you drive, along with the PCM side of the control. Something I have noticed but never really paid attention to: All the BMS Sensor and Charging Targets - Relate to the SOC, in my mind it always went to battery...

FCIM - Front Controls Interface Module - It's the front panel that has the (Rear Defrost) Button It's not an actual switch - it's a data bus (MS-CAN) Medium Speed (Controller Area Network) The switch sends a data pulse on the network - that it is pressed When the switch is pulsed, it applies the...

On the new Ford App: On the Vehicle Location Map (Page) Tap the (Circle) (Looks like a Roundabout Sign) in the upper RH Corner. That's the Refresh Location (tab)

I have a hunch here that the BMS Sensor is false reporting data, and this is the reason for your Battery Save - Message So, if the battery tests good and it has a Low IR then I suspect the BMS sensor, you may try a BMS Reset first - since it was not c/w with the battery replacement. I would be...

@TJC I updated the Charging Sys Thread with the following, iDK if any of the info will help you as a compare to your results or not Overtime I have gained some extra knowledge on the charging system, note still never found a full (This is how the Ranger system works) Let's Start with this: I...

FYI - I updated my OP with some more data. EDIT: UPDATE: Nov 22, 2025 Overtime I have gained some extra knowledge on the charging system, note still never found a full (This is how the Ranger system works) Let's Start with this: I was not having any charging issues but every time I plugged in...

Since it appears to be in the (Heating) circuit Let's try to isolate -The Mirrors & Rear Window and Switch (Ground) to the Relay Coil At the BJB - Engine Bay Fuse Box Pull Fuse #37 - This is for the Mirrors (Problem Remain?) Pull Fuse #68 - This is for the Rear Window (Note it is on the bottom...

This is where you are faulting - this screenshot is at idle, if I rev the engine (duplicating) yours the Duty Cycle & Current Sensor rapidly increase (quick snaps) The PCM is not picking up (receiving) that the alternator is producing output current which is feedback (ref) on the LIN. You can...

2 Different Lower Control Arms and Ball Joints, they will not interchange from what I gather from other posts - having issues installing then realize they have wrong part number due to the spindle difference.

@RangerBill posted this and it's a good reference for coolant compatibility.

I did not take a full dive into this. I am looking for close proximity pins in the connectors or harness runs A suspect connector to check for bad / dirty connection. My HUNCH is it's on the heated mirror side of the circuit, using the logic that the heated mirrors run with the speaker wires...

I guess I need to add this to my list of hands on learning with the scan tool for an answer of which specific sensor is for the gauge. I know that both are used for the PCM and the fail safe cooling.

The manuals really do not go into detail on how all the temperature sensors interrelate into the PCM control. But the gauge (display) comes from the CHT (If Analog) and from I understand (NOT CONFIRMED) is that the sensor only measures the temperature of the head (metal) so it does not touch...