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Rubbing on crash bars? Some play in the front crash bars. Remove plastic cover and loosen bolts to slide forward. If that is not enough likely need to delete or replace them with lower profile.

I mean it really isn’t. Just substitute “treating other people with respect” in place of “political correct stuff” and I am sure it will get less confusing. Or if that doesn’t work I am sure we all remember the golden rule yeah?

You would likely need a spacer on the front wheels to prevent rubbing on the suspension.

Here are some not great photos. Of the RL bars.

Saw someone using a leaf blower on some YouTube video. Haven’t tried yet but looked effective.

Anyone know if this ever happened?

Swapped out wheels and tires on my Trenor for set of 286/70/17 Falken Wildpeaks on Merhod 705s. To make fit I swapped out the factory crash bars with the Ready Lift bars. Used my Livernois programmer to reset revs/mile. I think looks great and no rubbing or vibrations.

Finished up. Love the look and have no rubbing. This is stock Tremor suspension but crash bars swapped out for the ReadyLift. Now I need to figure out where I want to run the PSI for these.

Got driver side on before the snow and wind chased me indoors. Swapped in the crash bars for the Ready Lift bars. The rear bar slid out with no need to cut anything but I decided to cut the front bad as opposed to loosening the bumper. At full lock I was about an 1/8” from the air dam so...

Mine came from dealer at 45 psi and no wiper fluid. Also low on coolant. I don’t go to that dealer anymore after they trashed my aftermarket bed cover and dented the body.

I have the diode dynamics 6” on either side of acc sensor. I use them as fogs frequently

Realized after I posted that you likely disconnected the wiring harness from the door which results in same thing. As others have said their is a reset procedure. Though I usually just don’t worry about it and it eventually starts working again.

Fair, though an alignment is cheap (much cheaper than tires) so I would be hard pressed to not have it done after any change to my suspension.

I think generally with any lift or level it is good idea to have an alignment done after.

Did you disconnect battery? Sometimes it will stop working for a bit after battery disconnect.

Wouldn’t you need an alignment anyhow?

Great video! I am not yet experiencing the thunk but if I do this vid will be my go to for the howto.

Roughly 1/2”

Wireless charging and CarPlay using insert from @DirkM

Set of 286/70/17 Falken Wildpeaks on Method 705 wheels. Waiting on some hubcentric rings to install.