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Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I am genuinely considering doing this on my Ranger. Anything you would do differently right off the bat? Or any advice to offer?

Did you ever find anything?

@airline tech and @RangerBill yall are lifesavers. After finding that pin 13 was at a steady 12 I looked closer at the connector and sure enough that wire had been pulled and the pin was shorter than the rest. I pushed it back in, taped it tight to the closes wires and repaired the loom. After a...

Also, I am not very well versed at all with electronics or wiring. When I am on your step 1 seeing if pin 13 has power, what am I using as a ground to measure it?

Not sure how I missed that, thank you!

Thank you very much for the help! I am currently under the truck, and finally managed to get C408 disconnected. When you're talking about numbered pins, am I just counting them or is there a diagram saying which is which? Again thank you, I really appreciate it

Thabk you!!!! Ill take a look at the wires themselves, hopefully an easy fix. Unfortunatley not. Code cleared via ForScan and it came right back.

It was barely pulled apart, so I just clicked in back to place. The loom tore open on the front side, closer to the engine. Thank you for the advice!!

Here I am back after a long hiatus. I took my 2022 Ranger on some pretty gnarly off road trails, then drove home and did an oil change. Upon starting her up I got hit with this on my Ford Pass App. I hooked up my Laptop and ForScan says its code P2418: While doing my oil change I saw that...

I have the Mickey Thompson 255/85R17s on some Bronco steelies. I had to replace the front collision bars with some high clearance ones. I went with the Eibach Pro-Truck coilovers with SPC upper control arms and 1" wheel spacer in the front and the the reserve shocks in the rear with a 1" block...

@Fitzmotor I'd like to get on a list for one, please!

Also interested, sprung for the B&M and of course once it was delivered I found this thread. Would much much rather go this route!

Is this still available? I'll be in WV for work next week and would like to save some money on shipping

So I originally fitted them with the eibachs straight out of the box no adjustments and I was rubbing not on the crash bars but here the front crash bars slip into. I just maxed out the eibachs leaving a couple of threads exposed above the collar, and no rubbing now.

Alright everyone. Finally cut the studs, got the wheels and tires on the truck. Getting some rubbing in the front and want to raise it up a bit to see if that'll help. When I was installing the front coilovers there was a small slip of paper warning to not go over a certain amount of exposed...

Jacked the truck up today to try and take some measurements. To be candid, when I tried to test fit the new steelies, I already had the rear end jacked up so I just tried to fit the spacers and wheels to the rear. The steel wheels do not have the recesses to compensate for the studs and...

Exactly theres a tiny recess that isn't deep enough to prevent the stock studs from bottoming out.

Sorry to keep bumping this thread, but I'm not sure if I should just start a new one. Anyway thanks to @Ds_2020Ranger I got some measurements for the studs: I measured the knurl at .505 and found a set of moser studs- Wheel Studs, Press-In, 12mm x 1.5 x 2 1/2 in. Right Hand Thread, .505 in...

Well I realized I can't screw on the spacer with the DP on the truck so I'm going to hold off for now and do everything at once, turbo and spacer so I don't have to do it all over again. And you're thinking from the DP, right into a 3" flex pipe? then, just for now, a reducer after the flex...

No tune yet, wanted to get my CEL sorted and I also have a gnarly exhaust leak between the downpipe proper and the reducer to the stock exhaust. PPE offered me a discount for some misprinted instructions that resulted in a broken bolt so I really want to invest in some V band clamps and flanges...