Question for anyone who's done their front suspension

[oarsirhc]

Going to be installing the Eibach stage 2 leveling kit and in my due diligence of research I came across 2 very helpful videos:

Video 1:


Video 2:


In video 1 the mechanic leaves on the caliper and rotor which would obviously save me some time compared to video 2 where both are removed. When you guys replaced your front suspension or added a lift kit; did you remove the caliper/rotor or just leave it on? My concern is that the biggest issue I read is the CV axle coming out which I'm worried about doing from the extra weight of the caliper/rotor. I do plan on removing the axle nut and hitting the axle out with a dead-blow hammer, it's more so in the time before that. Also, any other advice you guys can give me? Thank you!

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[NotBudule2]

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/r-r-front-coilovers.42426/

 

[NotBudule2]

I didn't remove any of that , only the 2 lower control arm bolts...

 

[airline tech]

Going to be installing the Eibach stage 2 leveling kit and in my due diligence of research I came across 2 very helpful videos:

Video 1:


Video 2:


In video 1 the mechanic leaves on the caliper and rotor which would obviously save me some time compared to video 2 where both are removed. When you guys replaced your front suspension or added a lift kit; did you remove the caliper/rotor or just leave it on? My concern is that the biggest issue I read is the CV axle coming out which I'm worried about doing from the extra weight of the caliper/rotor. I do plan on removing the axle nut and hitting the axle out with a dead-blow hammer, it's more so in the time before that. Also, any other advice you guys can give me? Thank you!

Option #2

BUT - DO NOT hit the end of the CV Shaft with anything other than a soft blow hammer, it makes me cringe watching him do it in the video
and
Take the extra step to pull the shaft all the way out of the knuckle, this helps ensure it's not going to pull outboard on the (Inner) joint

There are always (Shortcuts) - but when you are only adding a small amount of extra time to eliminate a possible (Oh-Crap- I wish I would have) issue - just do it

 

[NotBudule2]

And if I had it to do over, I would have put one of theses on the drivers side to help with the "lean" instead of having to crank up the spring more on one side...

 

[oarsirhc]

I didn't remove any of that , only the 2 lower control arm bolts...

Dude, THANK YOU! I did not know about this method until you linked the thread above. It looks like as long as I mark the bolts for how they were, it shouldn't be an issue. Definitely leaning towards this method opposed to disassembling everything else. Autozone is going to be getting a lot of returns for tools I'm not going to need to use now

 

[NotBudule2]

Dude, THANK YOU! I did not know about this method until you linked the thread above. It looks like as long as I mark the bolts for how they were, it shouldn't be an issue. Definitely leaning towards this method opposed to disassembling everything else. Autozone is going to be getting a lot of returns for tools I'm not going to need to use now

Those bolts are TIGHT ! So be prepared , 13/16 and 11/16 i believe... and i strongly suggest a friend with a prybar to help reassemble , I had to use ratchet straps and profanity to line the holes back up...

 

[oarsirhc]

Those bolts are TIGHT ! So be prepared , 13/16 and 11/16 i believe... and i strongly suggest a friend with a prybar to help reassemble , I had to use ratchet straps and profanity to line the holes back up...

Using this video as a guide:



Looks like when he reassembles around the 9 minute mark, he removes the upper control arm from the knuckle for leverage and then is able to use a jack to get the lower control arm back into place. Always looks easier on video! Haha

 

[NotBudule2]

Using this video as a guide:



Looks like when he reassembles around the 9 minute mark, he removes the upper control arm from the knuckle for leverage and then is able to use a jack to get the lower control arm back into place. Always looks easier on video! Haha

I had a.small bottle jack under there with me but didn't need to loosen anything else ...

 

[Frenchy]

Caliper and rotor can stay. Just make sure you take this nut off for the CV axle. After that's done make sure you push the CV axle inward so it has less chance of randomly coming undone internally.

 

[specialKody]

When I installed my Fox 2.0 suspension I left the rotor and calipers on. I did remove the axle nuts to avoid disconnecting the CVs.

 

[21rangerCactus]

And if I had it to do over, I would have put one of theses on the drivers side to help with the "lean" instead of having to crank up the spring more on one side...

That's the point of having adjustable coilovers. To make the little adjustments needed to balance everything out.

 

[NotBudule2]

That's the point of having adjustable coilovers. To make the little adjustments needed to balance everything out.

Ford has different springs for driver/passenger to make up SOME of the difference, Eibach does not , mine was leaning worse after and I would rather have had some shim on the drivers versus having the coils that uneven.

 

[21rangerCactus]

Ford has different springs for driver/passenger to make up SOME of the difference, Eibach does not , mine was leaning worse after and I would rather have had some shim on the drivers versus having the coils that uneven.

But then that spring and shock would be compressed 1/2 more then the other side. Where as making the adjustments needed only the shock is compressed. Which is fine because it's designed for it.

Just saying, that's one of the positives of having an adj coilover setup. I had it on my fbody and I have them on my GTO. Both needed 1/2 or so adjustment between each side to make it even.

 

[veloci1]

I didn't remove any of that , only the 2 lower control arm bolts...

I did it this way. Removed the 2 bolts on the lower control arm. No issues with the axle.

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