PLUG WIRING DIAGRAM FOR BCM FUSE BOX

[WCCperfromance]

Would anyone be able to help me

I’m trying to identify some wiring

If someone has the wiring diagrams for the bcm fuse box plugs

Ones in the dashboard area

I’m trying to identify the ignition feed wire to fit a kill switch as in the uk the keyless rangers are getting stolen too often

Thanks if anyone can help

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[RangerBill]

Would anyone be able to help me

I’m trying to identify some wiring

If someone has the wiring diagrams for the bcm fuse box plugs

Ones in the dashboard area

I’m trying to identify the ignition feed wire to fit a kill switch as in the uk the keyless rangers are getting stolen too often

Thanks if anyone can help

Most on this forum have the North American version of the Ranger, so I don't know if our wiring diagrams apply to the UK version. Here is the wiring to the ignition switch version. You could interrupt the yellow-red wire to the ignition switch BCM connector C2280H pin 12. This wire also feeds the push button start switch on the keyless version.

 

[WCCperfromance]

This is exactly what I was after

Believe it or not I was cutting the wires behind the start stop button to no avail ….the truck was still starting!! There is 6 wires behind the start stop button …. Cut each one …..one by one and the damn truck stil started

I was baffled!

But now I have this diagram I can take a more extended look and see what I can safely splice into

Thank you much appreciated

 

[airline tech]

A little more thought needs to be brought in here.

1. Since thieves have found a way to by-pass the PATS, including the Alarm and the Key FOB Validation. Then just looking at the Ignition Switch is not a full deterrent.

2. If you install kill switch at (Ignition Power) a knowledgeable thief who has possibly popped the switch out - Still has a 12-Volt source of power that can be jumped over (Hot Wire) right, there in that connector. Note 2 sources are always HOT.

A more logical way to create a (Kill Switch - Disable) would be to tap into the Starter Relay (Coil Side) circuit.
Run the wiring through the firewall from the engine bay to a hidden switch, now think like a thief as they will be opening all panels and cubbies, including the BCM Fuse panel as they MAY be using the access panel to get to the BCM and they know exactly which wires to jump, to get it started.

Point is - HIDE the Switch, where it can only be found by feel and not visually seen, a possible spot would be (a recessed rocker switch) on the upper panel of the center cubby.

By installing a kill switch to the coil side of the Starter Relay, the truck will never start unless they invest the time in T/Shooting why they cannot get an easy start and go, a HUGE DETERRANT for a thief.

You could (Kill Switch) tap into either coil side wire, sure you could tap into the control side of that relay as well but that is 12-Gauge wire vs 20-Gauge for the Coil Side

This would be a more logical approach for what you want to do, is it a 100% guaranteed solution -(No) but a far better solution that just using the Ignition Switch, as they have already found a way to by-pass that already.

Note: There are a few different spots to tap a (Kill Switch)

1. Starter Relay (Kill) = No Crank,
2. PCM Power Relay (Kill) = Kills the majority of all truck power and only the (Always Hot) circuits will have power waiting for a ground.
3. COP - Power - (Kill) = Kill power to the Ignition Coils, so engine will crank but not start
4. VPWR (PCM) Output Circuit (Kill) = Kills power to the PCM

I think the most logical id the starter relay circuit

 

[airline tech]

This is exactly what I was after

Believe it or not I was cutting the wires behind the start stop button to no avail ….the truck was still starting!! There is 6 wires behind the start stop button …. Cut each one …..one by one and the damn truck stil started

I was baffled!

But now I have this diagram I can take a more extended look and see what I can safely splice into

Thank you much appreciated

Thats due to the fact that Remote Start either from the Phone or FOB, by-passes that switch.
Now the truck may have started but the complete dash (IPC) most likely was not powered.
I suggest you (SLOW DOWN) and (STOP) before you hack into wiring and research this more, as I am under i the impression you have cut all six wires at the switch that now requires repair.
Be Patient and post exactly which one of my above options you prefer for more guidance.

 

[WCCperfromance]

Thank you for the response

Just to make it clear what I’m planning to Install it’s a gps tracking device it looks like a relay and it has the power to cut off the car

With this diagram you have sent I’m seeing that your suggestion would be to make the interruption in the engine Bay Area?

Hiding this device is the easy part for me I would possibly take out half the dashboard if I have to so you would never be able to find it

But starter motor crank would be a good think to interrupt…..

Would I be able to do this inside the truck feeling back from whatever pin out from the back fuse box?

TIA

 

[WCCperfromance]

I would prefer kill the crank to the starter

But do it from inside the cabin area

The start stop button was cut one by one and if now repaired correctly

And all working fine

 

[airline tech]

I would have to see how they want the relay powered - Coil Side for the Tracking Device

As a simple (Toggle / Rocker) switch will act as a (Kill Switch)
You would have to tap into either the PCM (C175) or the (BJB-C1035A) to get the wire feed you want.
Then very carefully as it is a tight clearance fit (just above the brake pedal is a wire harness run from the engine bay into the cabin) and I think there is a body plug just under the driver's floor mat where you could run your wires, just ensure its protected (harness tape and loom) as its exposed to the elements if you use the floor mat route.


Note: C1035A = I/B Connector

C1035A - As viewed from the connector face, you want Pin

Pin#27 = Starter Motor Control (Yellow)

Pin #22 Starter Motor Control (Sense) (White/Green)

I am guessing (as the manuals are not clear) is that Pin #27 is the Coil Power and when a start request is sent (Pin #22) opens the path for ground to complete the circuit, thus closing the coil and allowing the starter motor to power.

So simply cut and install a (switch) on either wire, run 2 wires into the cab and hook to both sides of the wires you cut.
With the switch engaged (circuit is complete) with switch (dis-engaged) circuit is open

It may be hard to find a (wire run) in the harness long enough for a good spot to (tap into and work)

 

[WCCperfromance]

I would have to see how they want the relay powered - Coil Side for the Tracking Device

As a simple (Toggle / Rocker) switch will act as a (Kill Switch)
You would have to tap into either the PCM (C175) or the (BJB-C1035A) to get the wire feed you want.
Then very carefully as it is a tight clearance fit (just above the brake pedal is a wire harness run from the engine bay into the cabin) and I think there is a body plug just under the driver's floor mat where you could run your wires, just ensure its protected (harness tape and loom) as its exposed to the elements if you use the floor mat route.


Note: C1035A = I/B Connector

C1035A - As viewed from the connector face, you want Pin

Pin#27 = Starter Motor Control (Yellow)

Pin #22 Starter Motor Control (Sense) (White/Green)

I am guessing (as the manuals are not clear) is that Pin #27 is the Coil Power and when a start request is sent (Pin #22) opens the path for ground to complete the circuit, thus closing the coil and allowing the starter motor to power.

So simply cut and install a (switch) on either wire, run 2 wires into the cab and hook to both sides of the wires you cut.
With the switch engaged (circuit is complete) with switch (dis-engaged) circuit is open

It may be hard to find a (wire run) in the harness long enough for a good spot to (tap into and work)

this is exactly the kind of information I needed

This will now be a breeze the fiddly part will be running the wiring through and hiding it all

and I will keep you updated on how I get on

??

 

[airline tech]

I did some more digging, and a less evasive spot would be to (Kill) the Coils Ground (at least on the US 2.3) it uses G125 which is only used for the Coils, and it would be easy access, simplified wire run, extend the existing ground wire into the cab, and use a switch there, single wire run in the cab and tap the switch, output of the switch run a wire to a GOOD nearby ground point.
With switch open (Ground Is Broken/ Open) and coils will not fire.

Related to previous post, instead of tapping into the starter relay, you could kill the PCM Power Relay - Control
PCMRC = Pin #28 of the C1035A connector, this is the Ground from the PCM for the relay to close.

As I said, there are various options here, and the most logical sometimes is not the easiest, just trying to find the best / easiest and less evasive way to circumvent the thieves (finding) a way around the PATS system - that would allow a (Hurried / Nervous) thief to hit a roadblock and walk away as they do not want to spend the time to try to figure it out.
It also needs to be owner (ease) to reactivate the system and not harm or give nuisance faults with it deactivated.

 

[WCCperfromance]

I did some more digging, and a less evasive spot would be to (Kill) the Coils Ground (at least on the US 2.3) it uses G125 which is only used for the Coils, and it would be easy access, simplified wire run, extend the existing ground wire into the cab, and use a switch there, single wire run in the cab and tap the switch, output of the switch run a wire to a GOOD nearby ground point.
With switch open (Ground Is Broken/ Open) and coils will not fire.

Related to previous post, instead of tapping into the starter relay, you could kill the PCM Power Relay - Control
PCMRC = Pin #28 of the C1035A connector, this is the Ground from the PCM for the relay to close.

As I said, there are various options here, and the most logical sometimes is not the easiest, just trying to find the best / easiest and less evasive way to circumvent the thieves (finding) a way around the PATS system - that would allow a (Hurried / Nervous) thief to hit a roadblock and walk away as they do not want to spend the time to try to figure it out.
It also needs to be owner (ease) to reactivate the system and not harm or give nuisance faults with it deactivated.

I’ve finally done it all took me a few hours
But it’s worked a treat I have put in a relay gps tracker that activates the cut off with an app on my phone

I used the starter cut that you suggested

I couldn’t find anything online with owners in the uk doing the same so hopefully this helps people going forward

The wiring is so confusing that I’ve done so good luck to a would be thief to figure out what I’ve done

Thanks again for the help

 

[WCCperfromance]

I did some more digging, and a less evasive spot would be to (Kill) the Coils Ground (at least on the US 2.3) it uses G125 which is only used for the Coils, and it would be easy access, simplified wire run, extend the existing ground wire into the cab, and use a switch there, single wire run in the cab and tap the switch, output of the switch run a wire to a GOOD nearby ground point.
With switch open (Ground Is Broken/ Open) and coils will not fire.

Related to previous post, instead of tapping into the starter relay, you could kill the PCM Power Relay - Control
PCMRC = Pin #28 of the C1035A connector, this is the Ground from the PCM for the relay to close.

As I said, there are various options here, and the most logical sometimes is not the easiest, just trying to find the best / easiest and less evasive way to circumvent the thieves (finding) a way around the PATS system - that would allow a (Hurried / Nervous) thief to hit a roadblock and walk away as they do not want to spend the time to try to figure it out.
It also needs to be owner (ease) to reactivate the system and not harm or give nuisance faults with it deactivated.

After fitting my kill switch I’m unsure if I want to keep the set up this way

So I have another question

I’m thinking of changing the switch to a RF REMOTE FOB that can be activated with a fob
And kept on my house keys

I am going to attach a diagram that iv made and could someone let me know if this method could also work?
I have attached the image of a diagram

Could I simply remove my relay method and connect up like my diagram

Would I need to fuse anything?

Thanks in advance

 

[airline tech]

After fitting my kill switch I’m unsure if I want to keep the set up this way

So I have another question

I’m thinking of changing the switch to a RF REMOTE FOB that can be activated with a fob
And kept on my house keys

I am going to attach a diagram that iv made and could someone let me know if this method could also work?
I have attached the image of a diagram

Could I simply remove my relay method and connect up like my diagram

Would I need to fuse anything?

Thanks in advance

I would have to see the wiring diagram for this unit.
As unclear - it looks like the unit requires a 12-Volt Source for operation. (or 8-86 Volts - Variable)
Is the Input Source - Only For (Unit Operation)? and then (Switching the Output Source (On/Off)
Or
Is is taking that input source and transferring it to the Output Source? (On/Off)

 

[WCCperfromance]

I would have to see the wiring diagram for this unit.
As unclear - it looks like the unit requires a 12-Volt Source for operation. (or 8-86 Volts - Variable)
Is the Input Source - Only For (Unit Operation)? and then (Switching the Output Source (On/Off)
Or
Is is taking that input source and transferring it to the Output Source? (On/Off)

This is the exact item

If this is incorrect is there a suggestion you may have to change it to a fobbed switch

Regards

 

[airline tech]

That is just using Input to Power Output - Both Pos & Neg required.
With Tapping in to (Pin #27) This is PCM controlled Power and the PCM is allowing Ground when a Start Request is active (Pin #22)

Can you explain how you have the current relay (Phone-Controlled) wired, are you connected (tapped) into anything else other than the wire with Pin #27?

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