Anyone Try the new Anzo Headlights?

[Big Blue]

Looks like they're on sale currently, $763 down from $1100

Which lights are you saying are on sale? At that price I have to assume it is the Morimotos

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[Hickesy]

The Anzo's (thread title)

 

[Big Blue]

The Anzo's (thread title)

OK, I didn't think they were ever that expensive. I kind of dismissed them when they first came out, because they are only projector low beam and reflector/fresnel lens high beam.

 

[Tbone4253]

I've had them about six weeks. They are great.

 

[ControlNode]

I've had them about six weeks. They are great.

I should have asked this before, if you put the lights in off while the truck is running, are the lights all off? Which elements are lit with the lights in parking only? If you then put the switch in auto (and have the DRL enabled in lighting settings), the truck running in gear, does the DRL then light up?

Has anyone tested this box that gets power from the battery, and taps into the ground and parking lights +12V? I'm guessing it just reverses the voltage on those two inputs to the housing, odd that they didn't just use the Lariat DRL lead for the +12V from battery into the housing to conceal this box in there too. They labeled it high voltage, but I'm not sure that it is. I see a controller board in the light, so I'm guessing it could have enough logic in there to convert the OE lighting functions to the new light elements, thing like not longer using the headlight as the DRL and using the LED "C-clamp" as it. But if I put the parking lights on with DRL off it mirrors that properly. Logically the headlight element that replaces the one used for DRL on the OE halogen light would only light when voltage is on that lead and the parking light lead, but voltage on that lead with no voltage on parking lights gets routed to the new LED DRL.

On the plugs with that box and the headlight, not pleased with the plugs they used, they are not weatherproof when they leave out the LED DRL signal wire, can see light shine right through them, so I know water can get in. The inline plugs on the green leads may be weatherproof, at least I see seals around the wires on them. Not a fan of the fuse holder, also feels like for a little more they could have a weatherproof one there.

My only concern is that they don't work the same as for are when elements are lit as OE due to the power tap and box. If I could find a way to update the wiring to support using the DRL off the lariat wiring for it, I would. I'm not too interested in the switchback or startup sequence, just a good LED that gets the lights on the truck more inline with performance I'm used to with my RS's HIDs and built to last (IE connections not corrode resulting in loss of use or damage to truck's OE harness).


I really feel like playing with one of these lights on my bench power supply to test the different conditions I've seen my halogen lights do and see how this assembly responds.

 

[Big Blue]

I should have asked this before, if you put the lights in off while the truck is running, are the lights all off? Which elements are lit with the lights in parking only? If you then put the switch in auto (and have the DRL enabled in lighting settings), the truck running in gear, does the DRL then light up?

Has anyone tested this box that gets power from the battery, and taps into the ground and parking lights +12V? I'm guessing it just reverses the voltage on those two inputs to the housing, odd that they didn't just use the Lariat DRL lead for the +12V from battery into the housing to conceal this box in there too. They labeled it high voltage, but I'm not sure that it is. I see a controller board in the light, so I'm guessing it could have enough logic in there to convert the OE lighting functions to the new light elements, thing like not longer using the headlight as the DRL and using the LED "C-clamp" as it. But if I put the parking lights on with DRL off it mirrors that properly. Logically the headlight element that replaces the one used for DRL on the OE halogen light would only light when voltage is on that lead and the parking light lead, but voltage on that lead with no voltage on parking lights gets routed to the new LED DRL.

On the plugs with that box and the headlight, not pleased with the plugs they used, they are not weather proof at all, can see light shine right through them, so I know water can get in. The inline plugs on the green leads may be weatherproof, at least I see seals around the wires on them. Not a fan of the fuse holder, also feels like for a little more they could have a weatherproof one there.

My only concern is that they don't work the same as for are when elements are lit as OE due to the power tap and box. If I could find a way to update the wiring to support using the DRL off the lariat wiring for it, I would. I'm not too interested in the switchback or startup sequence, just a good LED that gets the lights on the truck more inline with performance I'm used to with my RS's HIDs and built to last (IE connections not corrode resulting in loss of use or damage to truck's OE harness).


I really feel like playing with one of these lights on my bench power supply to test the different conditions I've seen my halogen lights do and see how this assembly responds.

I can tell you why almost all of the aftermarket replacement lights have a DRL harness of some kind. It is to avoid the need to have Forscan to make adjustments to how the truck handles the DRL lamps. They simply take control of the DRLs within the light and have them on any time the truck is running. They don't use the wire in the OEM harness and tell you to turn the DRLs off in the dash menus. This also allows them to use the DRL strip as a switchback turn signal. It is the only way to make them plug and play. Simplist way to handle the multiple ways the truck can handle the DRLs is to take it out of the loop.

When I put the OLM (Morimoto) head lights in my '19 XLT I did not need to make any changes at all. I already had my fogs as my DRLs instead of my low beams and had my parklamps included with my DRLs. With the OLM lights there is only one fuse tap running to both lights strictly to let them know the truck is running and feed the DRL strip at full brightness. When I put the truck in gear my fogs and parking lights come on as before. I have my lights in Auto all the time.

 

[ControlNode]

Well, looking closer at the plugs, there is are rubber seals where the wires should be for the Lariat DRL signal, so if they had just put those wires in the plug would be weatherproof as it should be. These lights wire directly to the battery, so there is alway +12V, not sure how that tells them the truck is running unless there is a voltage threshold that it uses to assume the truck is on/off.

 

[Big Blue]

Well, looking closer at the plugs, there is are rubber seals where the wires should be for the Lariat DRL signal, so if they had just put those wires in the plug would be weatherproof as it should be. These lights wire directly to the battery, so there is alway +12V, not sure how that tells them the truck is running unless there is a voltage threshold that it uses to assume the truck is on/off.

There is only the wires to the battery? No fuse tap to the fuse box? Interesting, I know from their install instructions that the Alpharex lights have both taps to the battery and a fuse tap to tell the truck is running. Seems like everyone is a little different.

 

[ControlNode]

There is only the wires to the battery? No fuse tap to the fuse box? Interesting, I know from their install instructions that the Alpharex lights have both taps to the battery and a fuse tap to tell the truck is running. Seems like everyone is a little different.

Yeap.

The only directions included in the package I've found so far. I know they have the YouTube video as well, but that doesn't even mention the inline box nor the connection to the battery.

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