Colo_Ranger
Well-Known Member
Please keep us updated on how the install goes. I’ve heard they fit and I’ve heard they don’t fit. I don’t know I what to believe anymore…
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From the Bronco forum? Heck yeah, those posts were the genesis of the tie rods. Thanks for that! The rest was just digging into specs from Moog's part catalog.This is amazing.
Did you figure out the F150 tie rods from my old research or on your own? I had every intention of using them on my Bronco but never got around to it.
That was the most intense, delicious truck porn I have ever read!!!! ?![]()
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This is irrational; but the heart wants what the heart wants. In case anyone was curious, here's how I happened to do it:
On the front:
-Bronco control arms (wider than Ranger for slightly more wheel travel and tire clearance)
-F150 tie rods (2010s vintage, if I recall correctly)
-Reamed the knuckles to accept the bigger UCA and tie rod ball joint tapers
-Widen upper control arm mount at the frame to accept bronco UCA (LCA just bolts up)
-Axle half shafts are Bronco parts with Ranger inner cups
-Cut 2" out of the fenders (my engine bay misses my fender liners)
-Modified, revalved, and shortened King pr2508od-cohr-a dampers with parts from Filthy Motorsports and custom machined coilover adapter to suit the "Branger" setup
-Running max caster at the LCA to move the tire forward in the wheel well
-When you think you've cut enough, cut more and cycle the suspension without springs to check clearance at bump and steering lock
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Rear:
-1" spacers (would have gone just a bit wider in hindsight)
-Spring under axle setup with modified Rubicon Express Jeep XJ 6" lift leaf pack
-Laser cut 12" shackles
-Short body Bilstein 7100s 10" stroke, 360/80 valving modified for less bleed
-Cut fenders
-Raptor bump stops (stock shown)
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Other:
-17x8.5 +25mm offset Method 313's (positive offset helps a bit with scrub radius and clearance at full steer lock)
-Ford Performance tune and 91+ octane always
-Cooper AT3 XLT 37x12.5r17 (note some photos show my old 285/75r17s)
Still to do:
-4.46 gears are ready to go in
-Rear needs more clearance to bed at full articulation. Thinking about a welding up a "trail" flatbed...
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Dreams:
-Bronco m210 front diff or Dana Ultimate FDU
-Link the rear or just run longer leafs and bigger dampers with a bedcage
-wider rear axle (or just run negative offset rear wheels and forget about tire rotations, lol)
-4.88 gears
-raw finish bead locks or method bead grips
This was the rough plan since I bought this truck 3.5 years ago. I've been slowly doing all this stuff with 37s in mind and I still have lots more to do to make it really "work" the way I want it to.
As an aside, I run the transmission only in 'S' mode. With the 37s, a "built" 10r80 or at least some transmission tuning might called for soon; I'll see how the 4.46 gears feel.
Nice, always glad to see it help people.From the Bronco forum? Heck yeah, those posts were the genesis of the tie rods. Thanks for that! The rest was just digging into specs from Moog's part catalog.
Awesome !Been waiting on some parts and tools for the regear effort, but I'm enjoying the big meats:
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I really expected the performance to be pretty bad with stock gearing, but the 10r80 has a very low 1st gear, so it still crawls in low range well. Driving in "D" mode is kinda miserable now, but "S" mode keeps things on the boil just enough to turn the big tires with aplomb. I can't wait for lower gears, though. I come from gutless Toyotas (that I still love), so the Ranger on 37s is a rocketship in comparison.
I’ll be interested to hear how it fits in the pumpkin. Can’t wait to see how this comes together. Might have to see if you’re willing to help me install…And all this time, I thought the front ring gear was welded on Rangers...
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Admittedly, I didn't put much effort forth confirming that assumption. I would have gotten 4.88s if I knew. Oh well, the 4.46 pinion is tiny as it is, anyhow.
It fits fine. It's all just fine. I'm never doing that again unless I buy a lot more in the way of specialty tools; the pinion setup in a clamshell is super lame to work with.I’ll be interested to hear how it fits in the pumpkin. Can’t wait to see how this comes together. Might have to see if you’re willing to help me install…
There is a mount on the OE M210 that doesn't line up with the Ranger. There is another guy on here who had that mount tabbed up, but he's been sick (I think) and hasn't hat a chance to test it out.It fits fine. It's all just fine. I'm never doing that again unless I buy a lot more in the way of specialty tools; the pinion setup in a clamshell is super lame to work with.
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I'm now pretty well convinced a Bronco M190 FDU with a Ranger intermediate shaft and tube swapped over would be the hot ticket. I really wonder if that would work on the M210 now. That's the route I would have explored, in hindsight.
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[Exactly. What I wonder is if the Ranger intermediate tube and shaft could bolt onto an M210 FDU, since the carrier outputs are both 29 spline, if I recall correctly.It's the mount on the right side tube in your last photo. Its flipped 180 on the Bronco. That's why the Dana FDU works, because that tube is rotatable.