Passenger Window Switch Malfunction on Both Doors

[Dr_Strangelove]

Hey All, had something pop up on my way to work today;

Rolling into work I have a security checkpoint and I went to roll my passenger window down from the driver's control panel and it wasn't responding. I checked the lock button which shouldn't affect the driver, anyhow, and it was off. The back windows were responding to the controls and my driver's window was responding to the controls. So I get to my parking spot and I reach over and try the switch on the passenger door. I bump it and the window rolled down a couple inches. Great, I thought, until it wouldn't roll up. I jiggled the switch on the passenger door a few times and no dice. So, out of desperation and futility, I put my left hand on the driver's door switch and my right hand on the passenger switch and just kept pulling up on them together at the same time, up, up, up, up, until randomly the window went all the way up.... lucky.

So;

• Passenger door switch worked intermittently.
• Driver's switch for passenger window did not work.
• Safety lock disengaged / not relevant

Any ideas fellas? I'm going to make an appointment but I don't expect them to be able to see the truck any time soon.

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[AzScorpion]

My first thought is to try disconnecting the battery then reconnecting it to see if that possibly resets things. It seems like things get glitchy at times with all the tech and that seems to work sometimes. After doing that you'll have to reset the drivers auto up/down by pressing the button down and holding it for about 10 seconds then raising it up holding it for another 10 seconds to reset it.

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

It is also 118°F today, and heat wreaking havoc on the electronics has crossed my mind.. We have been in a heat emergency situation for about a week and it's going to last the rest of this week as well.

 

[RangerBill]

It could be a bad driver's side switch for the passenger front window or the front passenger side switch is bad, or the wiring in between. It could also be the motor for the front passenger window. You will need to use a multimeter to make measurements to determine what the problem is.

 

[airline tech]

Most Likely (1) of two things.

1. The high heat can play a role, the window motor has a thermal cutoff, no telling what the temp of the motor was (inside the door-radiant heat) IDK what that specific temp is but I suspect this as the issue.

2. Dirty connection on the Pass Window Regulator (Motor), Oxidized with some Fretting Corrosion.
It is common for window motors, more noted on all doors except the Driver's (Infrequent Use)

Either one can provide the symptom of getting it to move (open) - Less current required and have difficulty (closing) More Current required (weight of the glass)
The connector can be cleaned by simply disconnecting, spray with contact cleaner and reconnect.
But with the HIGH OAT, I am going with #1 but #2 is highly probable as well
You can also add some dielectric grease to it - if desired

 

[Chris M]

Most Likely (1) of two things.

1. The high heat can play a role, the window motor has a thermal cutoff, no telling what the temp of the motor was (inside the door-radiant heat) IDK what that specific temp is but I suspect this as the issue.

2. Dirty connection on the Pass Window Regulator (Motor), Oxidized with some Fretting Corrosion.
It is common for window motors, more noted on all doors except the Driver's (Infrequent Use)

Either one can provide the symptom of getting it to move (open) - Less current required and have difficulty (closing) More Current required (weight of the glass)
The connector can be cleaned by simply disconnecting, spray with contact cleaner and reconnect.
But with the HIGH OAT, I am going with #1 but #2 is highly probable as well
You can also add some dielectric grease to it - if desired

Holy cow, man!
Is there anything you don't know?
What an asset you are to this forum!

 

[airline tech]

Holy cow, man!
Is there anything you don't know?
What an asset you are to this forum!

This is from experience with this issue on other vehicles as a mechanic. The Service Manuals do not mention it, but Ironically the Owner's Manual touches on it, but with no detailed info.
I can verify the Thermal Cut-Out is there for other vehicles as I have self-induced it as a test, I can tell you that the window motor gets pretty hot, once the motor cools down- normal operation.

The Oxidation / Fretting Corrosion - comes into play for the Window Motor connector itself, now I have not had the Ranger door opened up -yet, but generally the motor flexes some in the transitional operation (up & down), when the motor flexes- so does the connector. It is a miniscule amount of movement, but it is enough to wear the protection layer off of the contact points and this induces the oxidation and corrosion.
Since the other windows get used (infrequently) the oxidation settles in.


From the Owner's Manual

Note: If you operate the switches often
during a short period of time the system
might become inoperable for a certain time
to prevent damage due to overheating.

Note: If you operate both the switch on the
relevant door and the switch for that
window on the driver’s door at the same
time, the window stops moving.

A note that pertains to the OP's, noted operation issue (he did this), although the NOTE does not specify if the switch (operation) is Opposite or Same Direction (control)

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

It seems that you're correct and that the heat is a factor in this issue as it is intermittent (hooray.) When I left work last night the window worked again, at work I park underground and out of the sun so so that adds to the heat soak argument. Against my better judgment I tried it again this morning and it still works. Super duper. I guess I'll have to wait and see and hope and pray that this is isolated to high temperatures.

I'll keep everyone updated!

Most Likely (1) of two things.

1. The high heat can play a role, the window motor has a thermal cutoff, no telling what the temp of the motor was (inside the door-radiant heat) IDK what that specific temp is but I suspect this as the issue.

 

[AzScorpion]

It seems that you're correct and that the heat is a factor in this issue as it is intermittent (hooray.) When I left work last night the window worked again, at work I park underground and out of the sun so so that adds to the heat soak argument. Against my better judgment I tried it again this morning and it still works. Super duper. I guess I'll have to wait and see and hope and pray that this is isolated to high temperatures.

I'll keep everyone updated!

That's surprising because both my Rangers sat out in high heat (110+) all day every summer (5 years combined) when I was working and I never encountered this. It was so hot inside that even remote starting the truck for 10 minutes and driving another 15 minutes the inside would barley cool off. Then add in sitting in a hot south facing garage at 120+ and they always worked fine. We have a few other AZ/NV Ranger owners on here who've never had this issue either but maybe yours is an isolated one. ?Good luck!

 

[RangerBill]

The thermal overload switch is embedded in the window motor and is designed to sense an overheated motor from continuous operation or overloading of the motor. It should not trip on heating from the environment.

 

[airline tech]

The thermal overload switch is embedded in the window motor and is designed to sense an overheated motor from continuous operation or overloading of the motor. It should not trip on heating from the environment.

Normally true - but sometimes the motor is sensitive enough and add in external factors of the window channel possibly expanding creating extra resistance on the glass or top of glass sticking to the seal , factor into the scenario.
It is truly more about the temperature of the motor windings.
Bottom line it’s a temperature factor, related issue.

 

[RangerBill]

I was leaning towards an intermittent driver's side window switch or the passenger side window switch, since the right front window motor current has to flow through both switches to operate. When the OP played with both switches, the window raised.

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

Whatever it was it hasn't happened yet again. I did a "drag race" with both windows to see if the passenger window was any different than the driver and it seemed normal.

Yeah, you can tell I've got some troubleshooting experience under my belt as well ? ?

 

[subquark]

That's surprising because both my Rangers sat out in high heat (110+) all day every summer (5 years combined) when I was working and I never encountered this. It was so hot inside that even remote starting the truck for 10 minutes and driving another 15 minutes the inside would barley cool off. Then add in sitting in a hot south facing garage at 120+ and they always worked fine. We have a few other AZ/NV Ranger owners on here who've never had this issue either but maybe yours is an isolated one. ?Good luck!

You failed to mention the generous use of 303 products on your Rangers - clearly warding off many issues (including the poorly engineered bed rake).

Speaking of bed rakes:

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