Wheeler’s Superbump Stops Argument

[Taco Transplant]

Follow ranger people,
Here is an additional bump stop option, and in my opinion the best option.

First, the part number for the bumpstop bolt is W505277-S442. If you break your bumpstop bolt on removal like many have. It’s an M10x40 Hex nut if you want to take a trip to Home Depot.

We have very limited bumps stop options for our rear ends. Hitting stock bump stops feels more of a hard stop opposed to a gradual stop. I tried the stock bump stops that came with my XLT, they were terrible. So I put in tremor suspension and tremor bump stops. Way better, but the bump stops still suck. I had been contemplating some other options, but everything seems okay at best.

Coming from a Tacoma, I loved these bumps stops in the rear. So I figured I would give them a shot. If you want more in depth reviews, take a search on Tacoma World.

Wheeler’s Superbumps. Used the factory bolt. It is a tight fit for the bolt, but it fits. Here are some comparisons of regular bump stops, tremor bump stops, and the super bumps.

UPDATE/REVIEW:
Been playing with it a lot and haven’t found any downsides. More useable leaf spring before contact is made. Loaded about 10 cases of beer in the bed and hit some hefty bumps faster than I would have liked to see if I would “end up in the weeds”. Nope. These are softer and more compliant than stock. Don’t get me wrong, you feel when you hit the stop, as you should. However, the material is way more compliment yet supportive. You don’t get a harsh hit like the stock stops that have you say, “ahhh my kidney.”
After I drank all the beer, the ride was even better. Kidding again.
Unloaded the bed so I just had my shell. Drove even faster through some small whoops. Continuous cycle of the suspension and continuous contact with the bumps, no bucking of the rear end and certainly smoother. Better yet, I have about 1.5-2 more inches before my shock bottoms. Go me.

Now I’m clearly no profession, I just tune, rebuild, and sale suspension for other people’s money. I will say that these would be not good for towing with a high tongue weight. You would have a pretty significant amount of squat and your leaf springs may shed some tears. Would it work? Yep. Would it be comfortable? Probably not.

Something else to note: Raptor bump stops also work great on our setups. I was torn between those and the superbumps. Although, the Raptor bump stops (I believe they are timbren) are shorter. These are the bumps sold with a very prestigious set of leaf springs. I wanted a bit more contact and a slower ramp up, so I went with the superbumps.

I’ll keep proving people wrong with updates on the terrible performance of these crappy Toyota bumpstops.

‘Merica

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[ctechbob]

Stands to reason that if they are shorter, they'll be stiffer than the factory stops. Not sure that's the direction you'd want to go if you wanted to keep from crashing off the stops.

If they are softer than the factory stops, then you'll end up worse off as well since you'll blow through the stop and end up contacting metal.

I'd want longer and softer so that it 'catches' the leaf quicker and uses a slower ramp in spring rate.

 

[fjwlobo]

Stands to reason that if they are shorter, they'll be stiffer than the factory stops. Not sure that's the direction you'd want to go if you wanted to keep from crashing off the stops.

If they are softer than the factory stops, then you'll end up worse off as well since you'll blow through the stop and end up contacting metal.

I'd want longer and softer so that it 'catches' the leaf quicker and uses a slower ramp in spring rate.

This can go wrong in so many ways
???????

 

[Racket]

I installed the Sumo stops which are taller and act as a progressive stop.

I can tell the difference.

Edit to add: (it's been a year) https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-anybody-know-spring-design.14074/post-585320

I'm RWD and don't off-road but have towed trailers a few times including around Atlanta traffic with no problems.

 

[Taco Transplant]

Stands to reason that if they are shorter, they'll be stiffer than the factory stops. Not sure that's the direction you'd want to go if you wanted to keep from crashing off the stops.

If they are softer than the factory stops, then you'll end up worse off as well since you'll blow through the stop and end up contacting metal.

I'd want longer and softer so that it 'catches' the leaf quicker and uses a slower ramp in spring rate.

You would think. However, poor design and poor material of large bumpstops are counter intuitive.
For your pleasure, I just went out and ripped through some drainages resulting in some pretty significant bottom outs. By decreasing the size of material, and increasing the quality of material, I got a more progressive ‘squish’ than the long ‘progressive stock bumps’ that were more harsh.
What this also does is allow for my rear shocks to rebound as they are designed to.

Different strokes for different folks. I can totally see the point of larger bump stops for towing to help your leaf springs and shocks (example: airbags).

 

[Taco Transplant]

This can go wrong in so many ways
???????

Explain please. This will be fun.

 

[Taco Transplant]

I installed the Sumo stops which are taller and act as a progressive stop.

I can tell the difference.

Have heard great things about sumo springs for towing. Glad to hear they are working good for you!

 

[ctechbob]

You would think. However, poor design and poor material of large bumpstops are counter intuitive.
For your pleasure, I just went out and ripped through some drainages resulting in some pretty significant bottom outs. By decreasing the size of material, and increasing the quality of material, I got a more progressive ‘squish’ than the long ‘progressive stock bumps’ that were more harsh.
What this also does is allow for my rear shocks to rebound as they are designed to.

Different strokes for different folks. I can totally see the point of larger bump stops for towing to help your leaf springs and shocks (example: airbags).

Yea, that's not how it works.

If they're shorter, they HAVE to be stiffer in order to resist the impact from the axle. They're made out of the same polyurethane material the stock ones (And sumosprings for that matter), so they have to be a higher durometer. There's no magic pill for that.

The end result is you're going to feel more of an impact when you bash into them. There's no other way.

The reason the stock stops are designed the way they are is that by having a longer stop that comes into contact with the axle sooner, you can drop the spring rate of the leafs and give a more 'car like' ride to the truck. That's why the design is being used. Take away that additional spring rate, and you end up with more and more sudden impact.

"What this also does is allow for my rear shocks to rebound as they are designed to."

Explain?

Shocks don't rebound. They damp the rebound motion. Yes, they might damp less spring rate better, as in just the spring rate from the leafs, but if you're serious you're upgrading shocks anyways, so they should have rebound damping sufficient for more spring rate.

FWIW, racers often times use very short bumpstops, BUT they also massively increase their spring rates to the point where any bumpstop contact is minimal. So, if you're adding higher spring rate springs to the truck, you could probably use a shorter/stiffer stop, but if not, well, I wouldn't.

Now, on a truck that has old school hard rubber bumpstops, they would absolutely be an upgrade, but suspensions aren't designed like that anymore.

You do you, of course, but unless you're looking for a harsh ride, I'd avoid them.

 

[Fx4ranger2019Larait]

I went with icon bump stops when I changed to icon leafs. huge improvement over stock. from the OP's original post it looks like he upgraded leaf/springs so a shorter bump should help. stock leafs/springs are trash.

 

[Taco Transplant]

Yea, that's not how it works.

If they're shorter, they HAVE to be stiffer in order to resist the impact from the axle. They're made out of the same polyurethane material the stock ones (And sumosprings for that matter), so they have to be a higher durometer. There's no magic pill for that.

The end result is you're going to feel more of an impact when you bash into them. There's no other way.

The reason the stock stops are designed the way they are is that by having a longer stop that comes into contact with the axle sooner, you can drop the spring rate of the leafs and give a more 'car like' ride to the truck. That's why the design is being used. Take away that additional spring rate, and you end up with more and more sudden impact.

"What this also does is allow for my rear shocks to rebound as they are designed to."

Explain?

Shocks don't rebound. They damp the rebound motion. Yes, they might damp less spring rate better, as in just the spring rate from the leafs, but if you're serious you're upgrading shocks anyways, so they should have rebound damping sufficient for more spring rate.

FWIW, racers often times use very short bumpstops, BUT they also massively increase their spring rates to the point where any bumpstop contact is minimal. So, if you're adding higher spring rate springs to the truck, you could probably use a shorter/stiffer stop, but if not, well, I wouldn't.

Now, on a truck that has old school hard rubber bumpstops, they would absolutely be an upgrade, but suspensions aren't designed like that anymore.

You do you, of course, but unless you're looking for a harsh ride, I'd avoid them.

Yea, that's not how it works.

If they're shorter, they HAVE to be stiffer in order to resist the impact from the axle. They're made out of the same polyurethane material the stock ones (And sumosprings for that matter), so they have to be a higher durometer. There's no magic pill for that.

The end result is you're going to feel more of an impact when you bash into them. There's no other way.

The reason the stock stops are designed the way they are is that by having a longer stop that comes into contact with the axle sooner, you can drop the spring rate of the leafs and give a more 'car like' ride to the truck. That's why the design is being used. Take away that additional spring rate, and you end up with more and more sudden impact.

"What this also does is allow for my rear shocks to rebound as they are designed to."

Explain?

Shocks don't rebound. They damp the rebound motion. Yes, they might damp less spring rate better, as in just the spring rate from the leafs, but if you're serious you're upgrading shocks anyways, so they should have rebound damping sufficient for more spring rate.

FWIW, racers often times use very short bumpstops, BUT they also massively increase their spring rates to the point where any bumpstop contact is minimal. So, if you're adding higher spring rate springs to the truck, you could probably use a shorter/stiffer stop, but if not, well, I wouldn't.

Now, on a truck that has old school hard rubber bumpstops, they would absolutely be an upgrade, but suspensions aren't designed like that anymore.

You do you, of course, but unless you're looking for a harsh ride, I'd avoid them.

I am aware on how it theoretically works. I agree with your theory, if the two bumps were made of the same material. However, both stock bump stop options are dog water. The material is very harsh and poorly fitted to daily driving/off-roading in these trucks. The stock bumps are designed to get our little midsized trucks to tow 7000lbs. I’m telling you right now that stock bumps create a harsher ride than the superbumps; even though the stock ones are longer. This is why I have replaced them twice now.

This being said the ramp up on my bump stops will be faster because they are shorter. However, the difference in material makes the ramp up more suitable for my trucks typical (non-towing) situation. The superbumps are softer off the top, but ramp up faster: a nice combo with my rear suspension and load. I have found that the stock bump stops are harsh on the top, even though the ramp up is technically slower. This is due to the harsher material.

I’m trying to give more options to people who want their truck to perform. The Wheeler’s Superbumps are made for Tacomas, and last I checked the aftermarket support is wayyyy bigger than Rangers. I’m not posting for someone to proofread and nitpick my suspension knowledge. Speaking of which, shocks do not rebound. I appreciate the nitpicking. They are designed to control the rebound of our leaf spring rate. When you add extra spring rate via longer, poorly designed, and harsh bump stops, then you increase that spring rate. This means that the shock does not dampen the leaf springs rebound at the rate it was designed to. We can talk suspension all day. I do it for money.

 

[Taco Transplant]

This of you that made it this far: sorry this guy had to ruin a good mod/option for our trucks. Any questions on install, sourcing, or performance, I would love to help out.

 

[ctechbob]

Here's the reason they work so well on the Toyota's.

Straight from the 4-Runner forum.

Just like I thought. You're going from a hard rubber stop to a progressive foam stop.

I would expect them to work great in that application. For the Ranger, not so much, even though there are better choices over the OEM Ford ones.

You come flying in here hawking a product you like, great. But I'm pointing out the flaws of that product and what people could expect if they use it.

Not to mention they don't list anything for a Ford any newer than a 2008 F150.

Icons and Sumo's have both been tested on this forum and guess what, they're both a longer polyurethane more progressive stop.

I stand by my assessment. That wheeler unit is going to be harder and harsher, there's no way it can't be.

 

[Taco Transplant]

Here's the reason they work so well on the Toyota's.

Straight from the 4-Runner forum.

Just like I thought. You're going from a hard rubber stop to a progressive foam stop.

I would expect them to work great in that application. For the Ranger, not so much, even though there are better choices over the OEM Ford ones.

You come flying in here hawking a product you like, great. But I'm pointing out the flaws of that product and what people could expect if they use it.

Not to mention they don't list anything for a Ford any newer than a 2008 F150.

Icons and Sumo's have both been tested on this forum and guess what, they're both a longer polyurethane more progressive stop.

I stand by my assessment. That wheeler unit is going to be harder and harsher, there's no way it can't be.

Yep, exactly what I pulled off my Tacoma when I replaced them with the wheelers super bumps. Thanks for reminding me of what they look like.

I put these same bumps on my Tacoma, loved how they performed. They are not a harsh bump, but a firm bump. They let your suspension do what the suspension is designed to do: articulate.
I got my ranger and said “wow, this thing is great on the road, but rides like a Prius (you would know) offroad.”
After this, I got some tremor take offs. Worked great. However, the stock bump stops sucked balls(name calling). So I got some tremor bump stops and installed them. I thought, wow these are better, but still are a little harsh. Then today I said, “well, I’ll just get what I like and know.” I put them on, drove around, and wow, I’m now pleased with my rear suspension.
Then I decided, hey there are only like two bumpstop options for these rangers, and this is a great option. I posted it wanting to help others out by giving another proven option (see any Toyota forum) and now I’m dealing with you!!!
Now you’re the guy with thoughts and opinions, and I’m the guy that gets things done. I know how each bump stop that you speak of, feels. Yet you still sit her and tell me you know better than me.
Go talk about politics (name calling).

 

[ctechbob]

Then I decided, hey there are only like two bumpstop options for these rangers, and this is a great option. I posted it wanting to help others out by giving another proven option (see any Toyota forum) and now I’m dealing with you!!!

Yes, they're proven on a Toyota because they use a different design from the outset.

Just because they work well on a Toyota product DOES NOT mean they will work well on a Ranger.

You like them, great!!

Now you’re the guy with thoughts and opinions, and I’m the guy that gets things done. I know how each bump stop that you speak of, feels. Yet you still sit her and tell me you know better than me.
Go talk about politics you clown.

This is a discussion forum, there's no need to get all twisted and throw around insults, all it does it make you sound like a child. Especially since you know nothing about my background.

Do you have something to gain? Are you making a commission on every one you sell? If so, perhaps you should sign up to be a sponsor.

 

[Taco Transplant]

Yes, they're proven on a Toyota because they use a different design from the outset.

Just because they work well on a Toyota product DOES NOT mean they will work well on a Ranger.

You like them, great!!



This is a discussion forum, there's no need to get all twisted and throw around insults, all it does it make you sound like a child. Especially since you know nothing about my background.

Do you have something to gain? Are you making a commission on every one you sell? If so, perhaps you should sign up to be a sponsor.

They are the same suspension design.
The only issue that could arise is bottoming out my shock because of the shorter (and better material) bump stop. Good thing I took measurements.

Thanks for the advice. Driving a Prius is a compliment in this economy.

No commission, just trying to help people out! People like you make me think twice about posting my ideas on this forum. Perhaps why it has such a bad wrap. We have people in here nitpicking instead of saying, “great, how’s the ride on the shorter bumps vs the tremor vs the stock?” Now people in trying to help get to read your garbage theory while driving a stock stx to and from the grocery store.

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