General Maintenace (couldn’t find a sticky)

[Wesmertz]

Hey all! I am curious your “go-to’s” as it pertains to normal operations and maintenance! I will list what I am using, and I am curious what you’re using and why! Also feel free to tear me apart on my decisions (or lack there of at this point).

Gasoline: 91octane (I am tuned). I work at Harmons grocery stores and we sell Top Tier fuel (not sure what that means honestly so please chime in!) so I take advantage of my discount on our $4.51/ga fuel. I am curious also on your thought of name brands like Texaco, Sinclair, Shell, Chevron etc. as they all seem to say their own is better because of “whatever” additives. Do the “brands” effect cleaner burn, mpg, power etc.?

Oil: I run Castrol Edge full synthetic. Sometimes Mobil 1 if it’s on sale. 99% of the time it’s Castrol.

Brake Pads: haven’t had to do them. Planning OEM.

Spark Plugs: when I tuned, the kit came with NGK IridiumIX plugs. Not sure if they do anything different but they work. And cost more (I know because I dropped one and had to buy a new one).

Air Filter: Wix is what I just got. It’s so dusty down in SOUT so I have to change it a lot.

Tires: I ditched the Hankook ATMs after 3,000 miles and replaced them with Toyo AT3s and they’re incredible. I’ve never had issues with traction (lots of nasty unimproved mountain driving and rancher 2tracks). No issues navigating work trips to SLC all last winter (through blizzards). MPG changed less than 1mpg and I went up to 32s. I don’t think I will be switching.

Catch Can: Haven’t done it. Thinking about it. Seems more like a sub $200 gimmick that most will wind up buying just because it’s marketed and sold. Figure if Ford felt it an actual improvement they would’ve added one. Tell me of an actual failure you’ve personally experienced as a result of NOT having one and I may change my mind.

If I missed some stuff go ahead and add it to your post! It would be simpler to navigate if everyone followed a similar format for their own personal specs. If you’re commenting on someone’s post just reply and add your thoughts. Keep thoughts separate from your truck spec posts unless they’re your own opinions of your current runnings (like I did).

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[ctechbob]

Transmission vacuum and fill at no later than 30k and a pan drop and filter at 60k. ULV fluid only, be that Mercon, Dexron, or Valvoline. There are a few other ULV fluids out there but those are the 3 that are easily obtainable.

Differential at around 30k. I prefer much sooner for the first change, but after that 30-45k is a reasonable interval. Lots of good GL5 lubes out there, pick one.

 

[RedDakooter05]

If I'm being honest, you blowing up your ranger would not make me lose any sleep... But anyway, I think your routine is good.

• OIl change
  Once a year as I don't typically drive 5-6k miles anymore. I use Motorcraft full synth due to lower cost. Same with the filter.
• Tires/tire rotation
  5-10k, or when I feel like pulling my back busting lug nuts. That said, I don't like the OEM Bridgestone's, so I'm not motivated to prolong their life.... Anytime I clip a curb I'm like "huehuehue How you like that you pos?" nah jk about that.
• Catch can
  Oh yes, I have one. a $50 one. I check every fuel fill up.
  My opinion is this: They're not mission critical. They seem to help, but I have no reason to believe they're a must. As I'll state later, by the time carbon build up is an issue I'm sure you'll have other things blowing up.
• Air filter
  I Dunno, I check often but I assume change interval to be 15k
• Cabin Air filter
  Just switched to a washable one, so every 10-20k I will clean it
• Fuel
  87 octane usually, but sometimes I like to use 91/93 for a while. Truck hates me cause of the switches.
• Transmission/diff stuff
  Probably change it at 30-40k.
• Brake pads
  Probably when they start to make chirpping noises.

My opinion is that the ranger is not built all that great and I don't see owning it more than 10 years before it starts to nickel and dime me. I know some folks here think it's going to last a lifetime, but It's not. I like my ranger despite my criticisms, but I'm delusional if I expect it to last me 10+ years.

Not going to throw too much money into maintaining it. Least not more than I feel necessary...

Okay that's all I can type for now since I'm drinking... Let's see how many more users put me on ignore because I ruffled their feathers...

 

[redone17]

Transmission vacuum and fill at no later than 30k and a pan drop and filter at 60k. ULV fluid only, be that Mercon, Dexron, or Valvoline. There are a few other ULV fluids out there but those are the 3 that are easily obtainable.

Differential at around 30k. I prefer much sooner for the first change, but after that 30-45k is a reasonable interval. Lots of good GL5 lubes out there, pick one.

I am about to hit 30k. I changed diff and transmission on my Bronco around 25k myself.

Which "pan"?

Now I gotta research fluids...

 

[ctechbob]

I am about to hit 30k. I changed diff and transmission on my Bronco around 25k myself.

Which "pan"?

Now I gotta research fluids...

Nothing wrong with the stock pan. You can vacuum out a bunch of the fluid through the fill/dipstick port.

I bought a PPE Shallow pan, mainly because of the drain plug. I am more aggressive with my transmission maintenance and the drain plug is 100x easier than pumping the fluid out.

Still have to remove it to do the filter.

As for researching fluids, there is one 'high-end' ULV and that's made by High-Performance Lubricants. I can't stomach the price though and I'd still swap it out at my chosen interval, so it doesn't make financial sense for me. I'll probably stick with Mercon/Lubegard Platinum for the time being unless another contender comes out which is priced reasonably.

 

[RDJTX]

My Ranger is still new. don't have 5k miles on it yet. I did my first oil change at 1k, my 2nd at 3k, and will do them every 5k from there. I use whatever ford puts in it because I have a good quick lane at the dealer I use, which is NOT the dealer where I bought the car.

I don't expect to ever have a catch can. just don't see the need at this point in time. Really not sure about the other stuff. will likely have the fluid changed earlier than they recommend the first time like I did the oil. and I am one that expects this truck to last till I die don't want to buy another vehicle ever.

 

[redone17]

Nothing wrong with the stock pan. You can vacuum out a bunch of the fluid through the fill/dipstick port.

I bought a PPE Shallow pan, mainly because of the drain plug. I am more aggressive with my transmission maintenance and the drain plug is 100x easier than pumping the fluid out.

Still have to remove it to do the filter.

As for researching fluids, there is one 'high-end' ULV and that's made by High-Performance Lubricants. I can't stomach the price though and I'd still swap it out at my chosen interval, so it doesn't make financial sense for me. I'll probably stick with Mercon/Lubegard Platinum for the time being unless another contender comes out which is priced reasonably.

Wow. This 10R80 transmission is complicated. I just got the Ranger, so I have a lot to learn. Didn’t realize it had a pan, filter and no drain plug. Fun stuff.

Just under 30k now…I guess I’m planning my first real project on this thing. I have shoulder surgery the first week in September. Really should get it done before that.

Assuming with the shallow pan it holds less fluid?

 

[ctechbob]

Nope, the PPE 'shallow' pan actually holds about 3/4 of a quart more than stock.

Not sure how it is on 4WD models, but the pan on the 2WD's is completely unobstructed and a cake walk to remove and replace. Gasket is reusable, although if you're up there in miles I would consider a new one, if you can find one. They're a bit expensive at $60ish.

 

[tnewcomb6370]

Changed my transmission pan today and I did use the ppe pan to make it easier next time. Lots of good information on here on how to do it and alot of good people to help if you run into a issue. I did use a new gasket for the pan, found it on line for 43 dollars.

 

[ctechbob]

Wow. This 10R80 transmission is complicated. I just got the Ranger, so I have a lot to learn. Didn’t realize it had a pan, filter and no drain plug. Fun stuff.

In the world of transmission filters, the one on the 10R80 is very nice. I still wouldn't want to encourage anyone to leave it on for the 150k that Ford recommends, but you can tell they designed it for a longer drain. It has a LOT of surface area and it very well built. The media is also very nice and strong. I haven't seen any of the aftermarket offerings, but I have no problem with the Motorcraft part, it is just about the same price as the aftermarket ones.

However......

Ford now has a 'new' filter model.

I have no idea what the difference is. Flip a coin and order the one that is in stock, and pick up the $4 reuseable grommet/gasket at the dealer. They say to reuse it, but I'd hate for it to leak and it is cheap, so might as well replace it.

 

[redone17]

In the world of transmission filters, the one on the 10R80 is very nice. I still wouldn't want to encourage anyone to leave it on for the 150k that Ford recommends, but you can tell they designed it for a longer drain. It has a LOT of surface area and it very well built. The media is also very nice and strong. I haven't seen any of the aftermarket offerings, but I have no problem with the Motorcraft part, it is just about the same price as the aftermarket ones.

However......

Ford now has a 'new' filter model.

I have no idea what the difference is. Flip a coin and order the one that is in stock, and pick up the $4 reuseable grommet/gasket at the dealer. They say to reuse it, but I'd hate for it to leak and it is cheap, so might as well replace it.

I had FT215 in my parts list. Is FT202 the newer one?

Any reason for your choice between shallow vs deep pan? I’d prefer the clearance since we’ll be off-roading - but, is it just an inch or a lot more?

 

[ctechbob]

I had FT215 in my parts list. Is FT202 the newer one?

Any reason for your choice between shallow vs deep pan? I’d prefer the clearance since we’ll be off-roading - but, is it just an inch or a lot more?

Only thing I can figure is that Ford is either changing vendors on that filter, or they've redesigned it to remove the 2 different types of filter material that is in the original. They'd originally designed it to have a course and fine media in it so that the trans wouldn't starve on cold starts. There was supposed to be a thermal valve in the filter that moved. They did away with it pretty early in the 10R80's life. I don't know if they're changing media or what, but go ahead and use either one, I'm sure it will be fine.

I picked it because in my case, I'm doing regular fluid changes, and I have seen nothing in my data logs that leads me to believe that the 10R80 is overly hard on fluid, so having more in there in my opinion just means I'll be dumping more every time I change it. Even when towing my big travel trailer in the GA mountains, the fluid never gets over 225 or so, which is well in line of where it should be. After heating it, the cooling stack brings it right back down to ~210. So if I'm not burning fluid, there's little reason to have an extra couple quarts in there.

And I like the way the shallow pan looks, over the deep pan. Plus it doesn't stick too far down where I'd have to worry about something kicking up off the road and catching on it...at least no more than the stock pan.

--Edit--

If you're curious, here is a data log I made a few weeks ago. It was a 93 degree day with a million percent humidity down here, and we were towing mostly uphill to the north GA mountains. Not a super hard tow, but the truck was working. I've plotted Ambient Temp (Light Purple), Speed (Aqua), Boost (Light Green), Altitude(Tan), Trans Temp (Dark Green), and 'Coolant*'(Orange). (*From what I've gathered, coolant temp is actually calculated from the cylinder head temp sensor. We don't have an actual sensor in the coolant)

Highest temp came from climbing a fairly long grade and then stopping at a stop light at the top of the hill. It cooled down as soon as we cleared the little town and got back on the highway.

You can also see a big dip in ambient temp about 3/4 of the way through the trip. This is where we hit some rain, when it stopped raining, you see the ambient creep back up, but about 10 deg cooler than it was at the start of the trip.

https://datazap.me/u/ctechbob/log-1690927853?log=0&data=0-1-2-3-4-5-6&solo=4

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